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Defender iPhone Ash-tray holder


simonr

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I've seen a version of the welding one at Oxford uni about 9 years ago. they had problems with gas getting trapped between layers... it was horrendous in terms of vaporized metal too... still amazing to watch.

As for the eos, the parts are amazing, just like normal pressed sintered parts.

14 years ago the FDM machine from stratasys cost a cool 300k... we had one at uni. in 20 years the eos machine will be churning out land rover parts for us... learn how to 3d model now :)

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in 20 years the eos machine will be churning out land rover parts for us... learn how to 3d model now :)

That is exactly what I'm encouraging my 10 year old son to do, learn CAD now, not waste time on Minecraft. Then he can use the 3D printer properly

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Loved the EOS but supprised it had a full sweep per layer even though part size was small?

Is there a reson they can't reduce it for shorter print time you think?

Gotta love the US, one compnay decides to print a Colt 45 Auto (probably good reasons, demonstrate strenght by high loads, wear rate and continued accuracy by 500 rounds). Next a company prints a bullet finaly a tech show decides that gun laws are pointless as everyone will use $120 printers to print weapon of their choice!

The end is neigh!!!

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Loved the EOS but supprised it had a full sweep per layer even though part size was small?

Is there a reson they can't reduce it for shorter print time you think?

Multiple part runs makes more sense of the sweep per layer as shown here. I'm sure I've seen this same component in a video with about 20 or 30 items on a print run, can't find it now :(

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Zoltan - how did the part you were printing above finally turn out?

To avoid lifting, try printing with a brim or Skirt - where it prints an extra wide bottom layer to help it stick to the platform. It's easy to trim the brim off with a sharp knife.

Some parts take a few goes to print well - but I usually get there! It's a lot quicker than machining them!

Si

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Aside from the lifting on the corners I was very pleased with the print. Under close examination the overhangs are a bit messy but I think that is the nature of the beast. You have to look very closely to see the extrusion threads, the resolution is very good indeed

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At the moment I'm printing novel Xmas tree decorations - including dangly 'flying spaghetti monsters' in clear PLA. The results look very festive!

Si

Those sound awesome. I'd actually consider putting up a tree if I could hang those in it :i-m_so_happy:

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  • 4 months later...

I've just ordered an Ultimaker 2 printer which offers 20 micron resolution instead of the 60 micron of my Ultimaker 1 - which is still significantly better than most 3D printers on the market. I'll probably stick my Ultimaker 1 on here at some point once I figure out what they are worth. The U2 was a bit of an 'impulse purchase'!!

Si

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Have fun :)

I sold the reprap and replaced it, upon collecting the guy that bought the reprap told me he had never done anything with manufacturing, machines or software before and was looking forward to getting it home and start printing. I think he should've done more research before jumping in as the old repraps were never that easy. I wished him luck :blush:

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I wished him luck :blush:

And a lot of patience!

I had reasonable prints out of my Mendel - but the Ultimaker was just so much better! It still requires a bit of fiddling & experimentation but a fraction as much. I've had fantastic results out of it - so fingers crossed with the Ul2!

Si

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I've been happy with my Ultimaker 2. Some of my expectations haven't been met but I think I was expecting too much. There has been a bit of a learning curve and that starts with your design but all told I'm pleased I bought it.

We've made some great carburettor trumpet shapes and tested these on the dyno and settled on a shape that works. The speed to bring new designs through wouldn't be economically viable by machining from billet or metal spinning. It's earning it's keep so far.

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The main problem for us with the reprap was the compromises you had to make to the design to get a print, that and how much you had to nurse it. Since getting the objet we've been able to try itteration of designs and get it right before tooling up. Obviously the material properties don't quite match so you have to be a bit mindful. Were getting some samples done on a higher spec machine that can do rubber like materials so I look forward to seeing that :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Just a classic example of misinformation designed to stop people from trying it.

I still think you'd be better off with a drill and a block of steel if you really wanted to make a gun, less likely to explode and certainly much cheaper ...... although I guess a printed gun could be burned after use .....

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Continuing with the medias absolute fixation with 3D printed guns I found this rather amusing and worth sharing

http://www.bbc.co.uk/news/technology-27634626

With what looks like a 10% fill ratio is it any wonder that the barrel explodes?

I have no doubt that a workable firearm could be printed with a low end printer (I don't plan on trying - too many other cooler things to print!) though you do need an appreciation for the mechanics & dynamics of both the gun and the print material. As has been said, anyone with a lathe or even just a drill could make a far superior weapon, even out of plastic. However the media has not been over-run with calls to criminalize drill ownership!

It's a shame that now, when someone finds out you have a printer, "Have you printed a gun?" Is usually their first question! They usually look a bit disappointed when you tell them about the cool cooker knobs you've printed!

Si

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