carlosbeldia Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 (edited) how much does it costs to galvanize a bulkhead in England? I'm about to galvanize mine here in Colombia and don't have a clue Edited October 7, 2013 by western split out of the 'lighter clutch' topic as it had no relevance to that thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted October 7, 2013 Share Posted October 7, 2013 Its not that expensive , I had one done, with a few other bits as well, I dont remember , so that tells you it wasnt that much . It is done on a processing charge and weight change basis , as the Zinc and heat is the costly part. But its well worth the cost . HTSH Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maverik Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Ashtree I think it is charge around £600+ to do it for you, they have a jig they put the thing in to try stop it from warping with the heat (they also shot blast it and do any steel repairs that are needed, You can definitely do it for cheaper yourself, but you have to take into consideration transport of said bulkhead and the bracing it up etc... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 £50 to £100 ... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Aragorn Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 When i had mine done, they had a price per kg and a minimum charge of £50, and the bulkhead was light enough that it went through on the minimum charge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Orgasmic Farmer Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Ditto. Think I paid £40 to have mine done. Bolted a piece of box across the outrigger mounts and had zero warping. Preparation involved shot blasting (£50 cash), 2 new 3mm steel footwells folded up (£20), plus various home made patches and welding (all done by me). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ibex94 Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 I was quoted £60 min order value for galvanising, can't remember the weight but i remember thinking it was quite high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Litch Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Some places don't have a minimum charge. I recently had my bulkhead galvanised along with 20 other parts (battery-box, side-bars, assorted brackets etc) and the total cost was £145 inc VAT. Take into account that £50 of this was transport cost (the galvanisers are 50-miles from me and with the LR stripped I had no-way of transporting the pasrts myself) and they also carried out the prep (blasting & burning) I think it was very reasonable. With regards to distortion, I was going to make a frame but spoke to the galvaniser's first and they said not to bother as it was more important that there were plenty of holes to prevent air-pockets. I bolted a length of box-section across the two chassis-mounting points, drilled the necessary holes in the hollow sections and that was it. When I got it back I was very happy. Of course the flat panels had rippled slightly but nothing that showed when it was all built-up and it fitted into place perfectly. A few tips. Drill plenty of holes. It is the hollow box-sections that are the problem so ensure that whatever angle the bulkhead is dipped at there will always be escape holes. If you are careful none of them will be visible when it is all built up so don't take any chances. Also if you think you might want to bolt things to the bulkhead in the future drill the holes now so the edges are coated, you can fit captive-nuts at anytime. Take lots of photos & drawings showing where every hole is located as some of these (the really small ones) will be completely filled in when galvanised and you won't be able to spot them otherwise. Remove the mesh from behind the vent-flaps otherwise it will become a solid plate of zinc. I ground the welds away and then bonded it back into place afterwards. Easier to tap holes afterwards as bolts can snap if you are not carefull. Studs however are different and I just wound on several nuts (tight) until the whole thread was covered and they all came off a breeze. The vent-flap pivot brackets are a pain to clean out but in the end I found a Dremel & grinding bit the quickest solution. Do it carefully as you don't want to grind away too much zinc. When it came to fitting the nylon inserts for the floor-plates & tunnel I didn't fancy filing away at the metal in-case I exposed steel so I trimmed the nylon insterts instead, worked brilliantly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacr2man Posted October 8, 2013 Share Posted October 8, 2013 Re the vent hinges i used stainless steel bolts it was either 4mm or 5mm , with nyloc nuts . I had no probs with warping and the guys that did it says its mostly caused by the way it is processed , allowing enough temp change time , the quicker they do it the more likely they are to warp . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted October 17, 2013 Author Share Posted October 17, 2013 Thanks a lot, I'm getting all the information I can for making a fast and efficient work. What most worry me are the bolts in the interior of the bulkhead that supports the doors. Did you drill and place additional nuts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Diablo Posted October 18, 2013 Share Posted October 18, 2013 The nuts that the door hinge bolts go into on the bulkhead are J nuts - not actually part of the bulkhead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted October 19, 2013 Author Share Posted October 19, 2013 what can I do to avoid future seize or damage to this nut? right now I'm not able to take out the hinge due to corrosion Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted October 19, 2013 Share Posted October 19, 2013 Copper slip,to stop future corrosion and drill the bolts to remove them now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carlosbeldia Posted October 19, 2013 Author Share Posted October 19, 2013 Nuts are turning with the bolts, have to make a hole to extract them Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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