BogMonster Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Not completely LR related but I'm towing it (pushing it) with the 110 and I figure there are probably a few Ifors out there in forumland so... I recently got an Ifor tipper trailer, the biggest one (what used to be a TT126, now a TT2873.8478 3/4 or something after conversion to metric) Problem is, it won't go up any sort of a hill backwards without a fight. The brakes jam up - which from research on tinternet seems quite common. Even in low range difflock the 110 struggles with a full trailer - the Ranger has no chance. My older GD85 doesn't do this at all, with what looks like a similar type of hitch fitted. The auto-reverse brakes work fine on the flat, and they are fine going forwards, but even getting the damn thing up a little slope into the garage is a struggle, and rearranges quite a lot of gravel on the driveway. With 2.4 tonnes of gravel in it and a steep grassy slope, it becomes a real fight. Ifor make an optional manual reversing lock, but I can't get one here quickly. Has anybody got one, with the lock fitted, and if so could you post a pic of where and how it fits? It might be something I can make or improvise for the next couple of weeks.... the options are to put my new Hankook MTs on and carve up the garden, or use a wheelbarrow to push rock up hill, and I'm not keen on either. Ta! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
smallfry Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Any braked trailer is going to apply the brakes when you push it backwards.................... what you have to do is stop the hitch/drawbar pushing in and applyibg the brakes. Depending on what type of hitch/drawbar you have, you have to prevent it doing this. A piece of tube, a U shaped metal stop of a lock pin/bolt through it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 We have a Mustang horse trailer with ALKO chassis and running gear, the auto reverse works great, the shoes lock the drum but as you push it back the shoes disengage and it rolls back, it does take a good bit of shunt for the brakes to disengage but they do. We had a problem with it about a year ago where they locked solid and no amount of shunting back would free them, it took me a day to strip them down and clean them all out and then lubricate it all up again and they were back to being like new. Maybe yours needs the same??? I know ours was a mix of road silt and brake dust that was causing the problem. I used to have a Bateson horse trailer, much simpler, flick a locking tab over and it stopped the hitch from engaging the brakes, you just had to remember to jump out and flick it back open again before setting off, it was very interesting one day when I forgot with a Suffolk punch in it and found the 109 being happily pushed along, thank god the road was clear or it would have been a not so pleasant experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted January 11, 2014 Share Posted January 11, 2014 Also look out for brakes that are too well adjusted if you know what I mean, backing off the adjusters half a turn, doesn't alter the proper braking much but does seem to give the shoes more play to back off from the drums. as a quick fix just slip off the bellows and bungee a couple of bits of angle iron trimmed to the same length round the tube for reversing. My other top tip for ifors is to bin the little tyres, far too fragile. I have got my LM146 running on disco rims with 205/65/16 commercial tyres which last 10 times better. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 This is brand new with about 150 miles under its wheels so I don't think it is a mechanical problem though the adjustment looks like it would be worth investigating. What I really wanted to know is where the proper Ifor lock fits in, there is a slot in the top of the hitch so I guess it could be there, but I don't just want to just jam something in as it cost a fortune and I don't want to f it up! I got the extra cost 13" tyre option and they seem pretty tough, but I've never liked the silly pram wheels on any trailer - my boat trailer now wears 235/70R16 AT2s Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 The 'proper' thing is here and I'm going to order one, just that it will take a while to get here... and I'm not clear on exactly how it fits. http://www.barlowtrailers.co.uk/Manual_Reverse_Kit_P00915 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Hancock Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 It fits on top of the over run hitch body pointing forward, to activate the movable bit it pushed down thro the slot in the body and forward so the tit hooks under the case, then reverse. The pain is that as soon as you go forward again if shunting the catch releases and has to be reset before going back again. The original problem could be down to newness/lack of lube in the cam to brake shoe connection area so it is taking a lot more effort to shove the shoes down the cams and release. Our old Eldiss caravan used to do the same thing occasionally and it would then release with a clonk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cackshifter Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 I feel your pain with the reversing, I have had similar problems reversing an ifor horse trailer uphill on boggy ground. Going back a while(!) caravan brakes used to have similar manual reverse locks. Originally the coupling shaft had no gaiter and the reverse lock was essentially a semicircular bit of plate that could be flipped over the shaft to stop the head going back. Later than that, a similar thing to your official manual lock was fitted as it had to be that the reverse lock flipped off as you drove forward in case you forgot to take it off, though in line with Phil's post above, it was a royal pain. The reverse lock enagaged was an 'L' shaped lever that engaged a collar on the coupling shaft and protruded at the back of the coupling. A second collar on the shaft flipped it off when you pulled forward. So, maybe of interest, on the old caravans with that system ( Beta 4 coupling)you could have a solenoid which applied the lock, by pulling on that lever. Apart from the obvious thing that you don't have to keep jumping out to apply it, it could be applied before the brakes came on as you arrive somewhere, as it may not be possible to lock the brakes off after they have been applied, eg if you stop facing downhill with the trailer coupling shaft in. Then you have to apply the trailer handbrake, move forward a tad, then apply the lock. The solenoid avoided all that. If you moved forward, the drag of the trailer was enough to overcome the solenoid, but as soon as you reverse slightly the lock would come on. Obviously, you had to have a dash warning of solenoid activation. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluespanner Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 Blanco, how did you get big tyres to fit? I have 185/60r12s on my LM166 and there is only about 2 inches above the tyre, unladen. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 Bogmonster...... will this help, item 8...... http://www.towingandtrailers.com/trailer-parts/trailer-couplings/spare-parts-for-couplings/parts-for-bradley-doublelock-couplings/parts-for-bradley-doublelock-hu3-2000kg-couplings.html Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 Blue spanner, the best 'small tyres are actually the 195/60/12, they are the most flexible and resist the twisting/turning (that's what kills them) the best in my experience. I just altered the cross beam fittings slightly (and flipped them) to sit under the springs instead of inside them, on a tipper tho (as per the OP) there is the space without that I think. As I often run at max (plus a bit!) load on road and (well) above it off road the tyre change has saved me a fortune. I used to go through 4 tyres easily in 12 months but these (2nd hand) have lasted 2 yrs now. I have lost some benefit in driving cars on (I have to go and get longer ramps) but I rarely do that and the tyre saving is huge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted January 12, 2014 Author Share Posted January 12, 2014 Thanks, didn't realise it was 'auto release' which would be v annoying, I will design something less idiot proof and far more practical! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ian_s Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 one way around the auto release would be to have a small solenoid that holds the latch down, linked to reversing lights. do trailer lights have reversing lights on them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluespanner Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Blanco, thank for that. Don't suppose you have a picture? I load cars too so it would be a nuisance if it was too high. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Here's a pic for Bluespanner, with apologies to BM for the sidetrack. Bed height is 78cm now which is high for cars, dumper and digger go on fine although I am on the lookout for the 8ft ramps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Here's a pic for Bluespanner, with apologies to BM for the sidetrack. Bed height is 78cm now which is high for cars, dumper and digger go on fine although I am on the lookout for the 8ft ramps. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mark under Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Hi Haven't posted before but quite often look here for advice, We service over 200 ifor Williams trailers a year of all ages and types, Ifor Williams do over adjust the brakes in the factory and it is always the main rod not the drums that is too tight. If you removed the drums you would find that the 4 brake cables are not releasing fully inside the hub, release the rod at the front of the trailer until the cables are not being pulled and then adjust the brake shoes and it will work fine. Usually on a first service we have to release the main rod and adjust the brake drum adjusters up to get the brakes to work correctly. The trailers will go backwards with out the reversing kit they sell, but it may help on loose surfaces. Hope this helps. Mark Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Thanks Mark, that is interesting to know. Welcome by the way. Following on from the wheel size and bed height thing above, I went with a neighbour today to collect a C15 chiller van, that definitely was a pain to get on and off due to the low ground clearance. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BogMonster Posted February 16, 2014 Author Share Posted February 16, 2014 Hi Haven't posted before but quite often look here for advice, We service over 200 ifor Williams trailers a year of all ages and types, Ifor Williams do over adjust the brakes in the factory and it is always the main rod not the drums that is too tight. If you removed the drums you would find that the 4 brake cables are not releasing fully inside the hub, release the rod at the front of the trailer until the cables are not being pulled and then adjust the brake shoes and it will work fine. Usually on a first service we have to release the main rod and adjust the brake drum adjusters up to get the brakes to work correctly. The trailers will go backwards with out the reversing kit they sell, but it may help on loose surfaces. Hope this helps. Mark I missed this when it was posted, just looking for the info again, thanks for that. I didn't want to mess around stripping the hubs to adjust or lube anything, but I will try tweaking the rod a bit and see what happens. My 'temporary solution' was a lump of angle iron I happened to have which had a bit sticking out of one end that was nearly the right size, I ground it down on the bench grinder to be a snug fit in the slot, and just dropped it in vertically: Poor photo as its a crop out of a much bigger photo I took yesterday. Looks RAF, but works perfectly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blanco Posted February 16, 2014 Share Posted February 16, 2014 And I found the mislaid snap of the axle mod......... I took the backplates off, but left them in their respective corners and flipped the axles over. Then just made a little spacer for the bump stop. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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