muddy Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 What's the collectives preferred method of beefing these up? I have plus five shocks but no lift so a small crank might not go amiss but nothing serious, do I weld angle down them, some 10x30 plate, sleeve them with some ~5mm gas pipe, box, wrap them in led rope lights? Weights no real issue I've just put put half a Sherman on in the guise of a steering gaurd so a little more low down won't hurt, cheap is good, strong is best! I want to retain standard bushings. So what have you done, what works what doesn't? Usage is heavy RTV defender. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 RTV......... alrc events.....?? in which case you can't do anything to the trailing arms.......! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 My 110 has standard arms with a slight crank in them and some angle welded along the length. The 110 has +2 springs and shocks and the arms give me no cause for concern. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted January 12, 2014 Share Posted January 12, 2014 I was looking a little while ago for some H/D ones but they have to look standard for the technical inspection and all the ones I found looked rock solid but nowhere near standard looking. Anyone seen any made from bright steel bar that look stock? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 Why not get early range rover/110 trailing arms they are considerably bigger diameter and iirc there solid so much stronger. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 That sounds promising mike ! anyone have a part number ? The only standardish looking ones I could find were these : http://bit.ly/1m2wPVa Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cynic-al Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 I think I have some standard early range rover classic ones you can have if they are any use to you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 As I recall I don't think you can get them anymore they were superceded by the chocolate ones they now fit the set I have came off a D reg 110. They are noticeable larger than the "standard" ones I've not seen them on discos or 90's so could be a heavy duty thing on early coilers. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted January 13, 2014 Share Posted January 13, 2014 I'll vote for earlies. My 1972 RRC ones might be solid bar? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted January 13, 2014 Author Share Posted January 13, 2014 Thanks chaps. Bollox to ALRC I can't be doing with a massive repair list after every trial! ( we are not Alrc ) I'll see if I have some thicker ones in the shed otherwise it'll be angle iron like the last ones I made. Seemingly I was over thinking this! Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
miketomcat Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 I sleved and cranked a set of standard one's on the tomcat can't remember the wall thickness but the tube was a nice snug fit and don't forget to gusset the bend. Mike Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nigelw Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 That sounds promising mike ! anyone have a part number ? The only standardish looking ones I could find were these : http://bit.ly/1m2wPVa Ordered, ta for that Stephen Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 Welcome - they're on my list. Just not reached that point yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 To be fair, I've been doing Alec trials for 8yrs and have yet to bend a single trailing arm, done a couple of diffs, but not arms..... Besides, my truck means too much to beat carp out of it, but that doesn't stop me from winning trials! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anderzander Posted January 14, 2014 Share Posted January 14, 2014 My friend had a standard one fail just recently on a lane - just fatigue from poor material quality by the look of it. It's that that, coupled with the stresses I perceive mine to have with the long travel set up, that has prompted my desire to replace it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted January 14, 2014 Author Share Posted January 14, 2014 I appreciate everyone has different driving styles and perceived usage, we are trialing on and off a CCV course usually in working quarry's so the potential for damage is usually pretty high if you venture off the perfect line. I'm trying to build something reliable, I spend all week fixing tractors in poo I don't want to spend my Sundays fixing the Landy! Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted January 15, 2014 Share Posted January 15, 2014 Well, mine are 42 year old and it was 20 year old before it was written off flying through a hedge upside down, so hard it cracked the rear caliper lug. Add on another 20 year of trials, comps winch challenge and I'm supecting the early ones are a different breed Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted January 15, 2014 Author Share Posted January 15, 2014 I found some in the shed earlier, my current 1995 ( bent ) ones are ~27mm OD with an end like this The others are ~31mm OD and I found a chopped one that had a wall thickness of ~3mm the end looks like this How do these compare to your early RRC ones? I seem to recall once having some that appeared to be smaller OD still but IIRC were solid bar. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted January 16, 2014 Share Posted January 16, 2014 I get 32mm tube. There is a friction weld just before the donut chassis mount. I could have been lucky with them, but it's seen off a rear diff, the rear shock was so bent on the tube it knocked, anchors on the chassis are bent up and the brake pipe used to be smacked flat against the axel case (still worked though). I'm assuming like other parts, the early stuff has better metal? Also, it has only ever run rangy rims on the back, which leave the radius arm less exposed than rims with a lot of offset. (even more so now it runs 265 on the back). Either way up, they don't sound like they are 5mm thick or anything when 'ultrasound' tested with a hammer? Also, it's cold down there on the floor Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted January 16, 2014 Author Share Posted January 16, 2014 They sound very similar to the ones I have. I bent the current ones mounting a bumper height rock, sliding the chassis along it bending the elephants ear up some more and finally onto the trailing arm before the back wheel mounted it. It's bent it about 6" from the donut. I think I'll have a wander round the scrappy and see if I can find some tube that's a tight fit or otherwise get some angle on them so it slides easier. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Turbocharger Posted January 17, 2014 Share Posted January 17, 2014 mounting a bumper height rock, sliding the chassis along it bending the elephants ear up some more and finally onto the trailing arm before the back wheel mounted it Have you considered driving somewhere that the vehicle actually fits? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted January 17, 2014 Author Share Posted January 17, 2014 Ha if only! Unfortunately said rock was taking up 2/3rds of the 8 gate.... Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted January 18, 2014 Share Posted January 18, 2014 This does seem to be where 1 link wins out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted January 18, 2014 Author Share Posted January 18, 2014 Defiantly, I plan on one linking the front and if all goes well I might look at building a motor from scratch with one links front and back and a nice belly plate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted January 19, 2014 Share Posted January 19, 2014 We like to use the standard 300tdi era standard arms, bent then braced with some 5mm wall angle, never bent these with 3 years of challenging on them. I wouldnt like to use the earlier larger diameter arms, they're considerably lighter and thus i feel weaker. probably not the case however! The really really early RRC trailing arms are incredibly thin things, i've seen loads of those bent to buggery! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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