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Care of air tanks


ejparrott

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Question, does anyone do anything about care of steel air tanks either in their workshop, in an on-board air system, or (suspect entirely different) air suspension systems? I changed the drain valve on my workshop compressor a bit back and got some flakes of rust out of it, and I just wondered whether any does anything about theirs. I've got on-board air to fit to The 109 when all its basic systems are done, and care of the air tank was something I was considering, does anyone fit an automatic valve on their tank?

I'd sort of assumed that air suspension systems were closed loop and therefor had a drying agent in them, or are they not and corrosion of their tanks is also a possibility?

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I have an auto drain solonoid on the garage compressor on a timer opens on first turning it on and then for 5 seconds every 10 mins IIRC

The on board air (not that it has had any use yet) has a sprung drain that the air pressure closes shuts and when the pressure drop opens to let any moisture out

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I'd sort of assumed that air suspension systems were closed loop and therefor had a drying agent in them, or are they not and corrosion of their tanks is also a possibility?

Just for info, Disco3 is not a closed air system, there is an intake air filter and and exhaust port. The compressor has a coke-can sized dryer full of silica on the output feed to the steel reservoir tank (nominal system pressure around 240psi, max 330psi)

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I removed the small brass knurled drain valve on the base of my 3hp 150 ltr SIP compressor and replaced it with the large chrome plated tap that was situated on the end of the tank (the one thats got a black plastic lever on it), and now when I drain the tank after a days work in the garage it removes any rust or liquid that was in the tank, I had to use an adaptor-not sure on the size as it was a while ago that I did the conversion.

John

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Interesting the DLI (Department of Labour & Industry) regulations in NSW Australia require that all industrial air tanks (garages, facories and workshops & the like) be drained DAILY. This is normally done at the end of the day as a way of relieving the pressure before turning off the lights and locking the doors. In all the factories I've worked at this was the norm and leave the vent open so the tank has chance to fully drain, it extends the life of the pressure vessel by reducing corrosion inside the tank.

My on-board system for pumping up tyres etc. has a small relief valve, I cannot say I blow it off every time I use the compressor but I've done it at least once a month.

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If it was an air tank in the oil industry it would be in an inspection schedule:

1/. Visual check - remove end bung and look in if possible

2/. If deemed necessary do ultrasonic thickness checks

3/. Might ask for a hydrotest to 1.5 x operating pressure (depends on design code)

Adrian

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Yes, Les I'm curious about that sprung valve as, if it opens on low pressure, it must be fully open at zero, so how does the on board compressor overcome what will effectively be an open valve while its trying to pump up to pressure, normally these systems have a small pneumatic solonoid valve that opens with power off (drain) and closes with power on (compressor running).

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having been a boiler and pressure vessel inspector, the current inspection requirements for an air receiver is:

1) External examination of vessel including a functional test of safety devices every 14 months

2) Internal examination of the vessel and test of pressure gauge and safety valve on test pump every 26 months depending on build standard. Some dry air/nitrogen systems can go every 60 months and some need to be done every 14 months. Inspection requirements should be on the declareation of conformity. This examination depending on competant persons may also involve an ultrasonic thickness test.

These are normal inspection requirements for vessels on a Written Scheme of Examination, which unless you have a commericial garage you do not need. If you do have a commerical garage then you most definetley do need (but many do not). Hydraulic tests are now no longer required unless competant person sees something he does not like, as this is now seen as imposing extreme stress to the vessel.

Most issues found were safety valves not lifting at or below the design pressure or the maximum working pressure (there is no 10% allowance allowed contary to popular belief) and rotting of the vessel top and bottom from excessive moisture. Auto drains while good when they do work should be tested every so often and having one does not mean you should not also have a manual drain also which should be operated in line with the current recommendation to drain at least daily to remove moisture, which most poeple do not!

The other thing to bear in mind cheap vessel built to EN87 404 are cheap for a reason. They are thin (designed by accountants) made of carp material and do fail normally in the bottom due to corrosion and then normally escape through the roof of your workshop at a rate of knots. If I inspected any vessel made in Italy. I would also mark this on the statutory certificate as they are rubbish. Some of the best are old English vessels that were built before accountants became involved in Engineering.

Hope this helps.

Toby

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The other thing to bear in mind cheap vessel built to EN87 404 are cheap for a reason. They are thin (designed by accountants) made of carp material and do fail normally in the bottom due to corrosion and then normally escape through the roof of your workshop at a rate of knots. If I inspected any vessel made in Italy. I would also mark this on the statutory certificate as they are rubbish. Some of the best are old English vessels that were built before accountants became involved in Engineering.

Presumably weight is some indication of receiver quality then. I just checked, and a 3HP 150L Draper compressor weighs 80kg. My AIE 3HP 150L compressor weighs about 150kg which seems reassuring!

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I have an auto drain solonoid on the garage compressor on a timer opens on first turning it on and then for 5 seconds every 10 mins IIRC

The on board air (not that it has had any use yet) has a sprung drain that the air pressure closes shuts and when the pressure drop opens to let any moisture out

Can second that this is very good practice. Even using screw comps with fridge dryers we still have auto vents on the receivers.

Home use comps tend to run hot and wet which means they rust quicker and push moisture and possibly contaminents through your tools. Running as dry as poss makes a big difference to performance and seal life.

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