evanmc Posted March 9, 2014 Share Posted March 9, 2014 I'm stuck midway through my clutch change. I'm using the steps I see here: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=4380 I have everything disconnected: transmission mounts, all nuts off the bell housing, prop-shafts disconnected, etc., and the transmission held up by a crane with lifting straps. The transmission won't budge back even slightly. What's the trick to getting the transmission to slide backwards? Will I be forced to remove all the studs that attach the bellhousing? Thanks, -Evan- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evanmc Posted March 9, 2014 Author Share Posted March 9, 2014 "Gearbox", sorry. 1985 110, 2.5NA LT77. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 jiggling wiggling poking and prying generally does it! It doesnt happen very often, infact only read about it twice, but they can get completely wedged together. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 IIRC it's in the manual to but a bead of sealant on the joint on assembly...I never do, an it certainly wouldn't help with the splitting. It is just a case of keeping jumping on it, prying it, shaking it, swearing at it, jumping on it some more... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 Just checking the obvious... Starter motor removed? You could try jacking up the transfer box a little when you are confident every bolt / nut is removed from the bellhousing /engine interface... Might be enough to "crack" the two apart... As said above though, if someone has added sealant into the mix it may take some persuasion and my require some delicate leverage. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eightpot Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 No need to remove the starter on that engine, just the nuts on the gearbox side of the bellhousing, props, mounts, earth strap if fitted to the gearbox, handbrake link. The bellhousing is pretty strong, so you could try knocking a couple of broad flat old screwdrivers into the flange on either side to see if you can crack the joint - do it near a web in the casting to be safe. I've used a 3 foot prybar with some anger and a lump hammer on the joint in the past with no ill effect. Last one I had that refused to come apart was because the clutch centre had become stuck fast on the input shaft due to age and a touch of rust and no amount of pulling would get them apart - never heard of that happening before though so hopefully very rare - only way to separate them in that case was to drill a hole in the bellhousing so I could undo the clutch cover nuts and pull the engine away. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Briarston Posted March 10, 2014 Share Posted March 10, 2014 IIRC it's in the manual to but a bead of sealant on the joint on assembly...I never do, an it certainly wouldn't help with the splitting. It is just a case of keeping jumping on it, prying it, shaking it, swearing at it, jumping on it some more... Mine was like that, really glued together. I was removing engine, took lots of waggling, prising and cursing before it came free. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 I never put sealant on that joint....I have enough trouble as it is! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MuddyWinny Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 I have missed a nut (or two ) between the clutch release housing and the starter motor. The engine and gearbox separated easily after I realised my mistake... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jackmac Posted March 11, 2014 Share Posted March 11, 2014 Just done mine recently (engine out instead though), had to hammer a sharpened flathead screwdriver into the joint at the bottom. Depending on whether you have jacked the transmission up at the front or back will determine if it's going to split from top to bottom or vice versa. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evanmc Posted March 11, 2014 Author Share Posted March 11, 2014 Thanks for all the pointers. I'll check one more time to make absolutely certain I have not missed a nut. I ran out of workday mid-way through removing all the studs attaching the bell-housing so I can try pushing sideways or pulling up with the crane to break the seal. I'll try again this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evanmc Posted March 22, 2014 Author Share Posted March 22, 2014 The sharpened screwdriver was just the thing to get this separated. Next problem.... I feel like I'm never going to be done with this clutch. I can't get the transmission on now. After much frustration, I got two studs on top of the bell housing to line up, and nuts on both of them, but the transmission won't move forwards to be flush with the flywheel cover. I can't get a stud on the underside of the bellhousing as the gap is just to wide. It's as if something is blocking. I've tried prying with boards, using various jacks on the transmission, jacking up the engine slightly, etc. The transmission is not hung up on the exhaust. I didn't leave my deep socket in place after I used it to align the clutch plate. Could I have screwed up the alignment so badly that the drive shaft is what is hanging up? -Evan- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
V8 Freak Posted March 22, 2014 Share Posted March 22, 2014 If it's totally in line it will just slip in... It's likely to be just slightly out of line or the splines are not aligned to clutch plate... Remember, the spigot bearing is a constant contact point for the input shaft, so 1mm or so will be touching the outer rim and not slide in... Be patient... Jiggling & wiggling is likely to cause damage. Gap between all faces of the bell housing must be the same, vertical & horizontal must be right to get input shaft into the spigot bearing.. Neil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Have you jammed it in gear so that you can use the output shaft to turn the input shaft and wiggle it in the splines? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
evanmc Posted March 23, 2014 Author Share Posted March 23, 2014 Have you jammed it in gear so that you can use the output shaft to turn the input shaft and wiggle it in the splines? No, I haven't. I will try this and start again today. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jbs Posted March 23, 2014 Share Posted March 23, 2014 Have you got the clutch plate lined up properly? or have you reused the spigot bearing as sometimes that can get a little bit deformed and will cause a similar problem to what you describe as i've had it on my 90 and a 110 before John Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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