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Defender 90 vented brake change


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Very easy to do. Perhaps not so necessary on a vehicle that is rarely pushed to the limits but definitely if you do a lot of towing.

Because I had recently rebuilt my callipers and knew they were 100% I did mine by buying a conversion kit which is more or less just a spacer that fits between the two halves of the calliper, add a pair of vented discs and away you go. If you are replacing your callipers then you just need to identify vented callipers using the same brake-pipe connections (mine are single pipe).

I did my front callipers 8-years ago but last year I did a bit of an overhaul and replaced the rear callipers, F&R discs + pads.

Used BP vented/drilled/slotted discs on the front & BP drilled/slotted discs on the rear matched to Mintex pads. All I can say is that the stopping power is awesome!!!

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Defender vented calipers are single line only, standard 3/16 inch dIameter pipe with M10 X 1mm thread IIRC.

Post 1991 defenders used a common range of brake components.

http://www.paddockspares.com/stc1266-front-brake-caliper-new-rh-vented-from-la930456.html

http://www.paddockspares.com/stc1267-front-brake-caliper-new-lh-vented-from-la930456.html

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I've got vented calipers/disks etc. on my 90-I did do a lot of towing at one time and it did make a difference, It's a very simple thing to do and one thing I did do was convert my caliper pistons over to stainless steel pistons from Zeus engineering, they've been on there for 8 years now and are still like brand new-did the front and rears together, I got all of my parts from Craddock's and fitted it all together-It's a bolt on jobby

John

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not much, threads should all be metric on both, mainly a common range of parts used throughout the 90 & 110 range to make production line easier.

post 91 the brake fluid low level float cap on master cylinder, early PDWA switch deleted, common G or prv valves fitted.

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Fairly sure I have 110 calipers on my very early 90 axle but it was ten or so years ago and I'd like to refurb them - I can't see any reason why later 110 wouldn't fit but have been caught out by disk setback before, would be nice to be sure before I buy the bits.

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  • 3 months later...

Dragging up this thread from June, I started in earnest on swapping my 110 front solid discs out for vented and replacing my "seen better days calipers" which have been doing mist of the braking effort on said 110.

I have got quite a way through, replacing the discs onto the old hubs, adapting some new brake mud shields to fit, then came a head sratcher. The caliper bolts up nicely, the spacing on the disc is splendid, but..... the hub rear face behind the wheel studs rubs enough on the caliper body, to stop the hub turning.

There is I reckon, probably about 1-1.5 mm of interference, I am thinking of breaking it down and shoving the hub in the lathe and skimming 1mm taper off the rear of the hub on the outer 5mm or so.

Thinking is the rear is not holding the studs captive and there is 2-2.5mm until the stud face is touched. I don't really want to be milling the casting of the caliper.

Any other ideas?

Pete

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As it's 300 tdi you just need the 300tdi 110 set up; the calipers are the same with a spacer between, the disc is a bit fatter. Apart from that, it's all the same. They are both 46mm pistons with the same pad so the braking effort is exactly the same. AFAIK it was a factory fit option anyway. I did this about 4 years ago, no problems. I certainly feel more confident towing, but I never had any problems before. If you have to get new calipers and disks, go for it as it's relatively little extra cash.

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it's 110 series3/110 swapover or 86/87 as far as I can get it. It's been a pain geting the oil seals for the correct year as it was on the crossover of series3/110. Originally a 2.5 NAD it was running solid discs at the front and drums at the back. Everything else looks ok it's just the now thicker caliper body is being caught by the hub inner face. I may bite the bullet and get it apart again to fit the longer studs.

I've since found the rtc3511 oil seals fit's front and back.

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Sorted it, a light rub with the file, 0.5mm on the casting and 0.5mm on the hub, has allowed the hub to revolve with 1mm clearance. The components used if anyone is interested were

SEB500460 and SEB500470 calipers

2x LR017952 discs vented

4x AFU1031 caliper bolts

1x FRC6403 shield

1x FRC6402 shield

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