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Rear prop


white90

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I need a wide angle one as mine keeps knocking out UJs

I'm thinking over refitting standard shock mounts removing rear cones and retaining the rear springs

instead, just need to grind off the extended bump stops

anyone else recently purchased a wide angled rear prop and where from?

Propshaft clinic are out of the 3" slipper joints at the moment/Gwyn Lewis is on holiday, so I have time to think it over,

So I'm wondering what is best:

rtn to standard rear axle set up without any dislocation

or wait and get a new propshaft.

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I expect it’s the t/box end that goes……………. I do about one every 12K miles ……… mine is lifted 3 inches (don’t ask) with dislocation cones. I always try to get genuine GKN driveline joints ……….. they seem to last longer

All I do is make sure its well greased every 3K service…………. Its also used off road every week.

Edited to add........ I grease them with Moly slip CV grease …………. That also seems to help

Ian

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OR I could Die grind the transfer box flange joint to allow more movement, the joint isn't even discolouring before it is knackered!

I have a complete spare prop and a spare transfer box flange.

a new rear isn't too ££ but I'll have to wait for one.

genuine GKN joints always used and greased monthly or more.

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my last rear UJ went at the diff end after about 200 miles as you know. EOM part as well.

yours going T box end as Iain suggets?

i would keep setup as is and get the wide angle prop when they are available, you wont need it before end of Nov will you?

i have std bump stops if you do require them.

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is it a 90 rear prop your spare?

if it is, try and get an early (70's i think) rangie rear propshaft. they are wide angle.

then just cut and shut it to suit, I have done loads which have been used for trialling and raceing. none have broken (yet) and balance has never been noticeable.

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Tony, you can easily make a standard prop in to a wide angle with the aid of little more than an angle grinder!

I've done a couple now - it's pretty easy!

Also, if you fit actual Genuine UJ's, not OEM - they are better no mater what people say. I think there is a lot of tat that people are hawking as OEM at the moment!

Can't remember the last UJ that died on my truck and I don't think you have more travel than me.

Si

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any chance of some more detail please Si(easy to follow detail preferably)

I have a complete spare prop that I can practice on.

the UJs I've been buying are GKN metal capped ones listed as heavy duty items but the yokes are touching on articulation I guess this is destroying them .

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I was chatting to a mate about this (dave H) I run a 3"-5" lift and never suffered prop problems but he did point out that the Visco's it taking all the snap out of the drive line which may be why I never had any problems...

I never had issues with standard 300tdi rear prop I had it on for two years I bought it new and sold it to Mark90 when I smashed the truck up and it was as good when I took it off as it was when I fitted it.

We could be wrong but may explane why I could never understand your problems with props.....

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How about - tie the diff to keep it within the UJs range - then you can keep the suspension as it is? would that help at all?

I use Morris grease and GKN UJs on propshaft clinic shafts, they seem to hold up pretty well and the service has always been really good

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Jules

The travel on the rear allows the yokes to touch on the standard prop this is knocking the UJs out regularly.

the front prop was swapped for a double carden one to overcome a vibration around 60mph after the castor correction arms were fitted.

that has been fine since but the rear has had more new UJs than I care to remember.

I'm waiting on the propshaft clinic to get 3" sliders in so that can build a prop, or I'll try the Simon route of the grinder to allow more movement of a standard prop.

I hope that expalins it as I have nothing on the car to cause these ongoing probs that loads of others don't also have fitted.

James was suffering premature UJ failure till he fitted a wider angled rear prop.

the Propshaft clinic advised me the standard prop is a 12 degree one and thier modified version is a 30degree one and will solve the issues I'm having.

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Jules

The travel on the rear allows the yokes to touch on the standard prop this is knocking the UJs out regularly.

the front prop was swapped for a double carden one to overcome a vibration around 60mph after the castor correction arms were fitted.

that has been fine since but the rear has had more new UJs than I care to remember.

I'm waiting on the propshaft clinic to get 3" sliders in so that can build a prop, or I'll try the Simon route of the grinder to allow more movement of a standard prop.

I hope that expalins it as I have nothing on the car to cause these ongoing probs that loads of others don't also have fitted.

James was suffering premature UJ failure till he fitted a wider angled rear prop.

the Propshaft clinic advised me the standard prop is a 12 degree one and thier modified version is a 30degree one and will solve the issues I'm having.

But I had (twist of index of 1150) crancked arms, 3" + lift and far more power than you and I drive like a arse.

but never had front of rear props troubles

My gearbox must sit lower in the chasse of have a diffrant profile as a 4sp Auto and BW visco transfure box to your LT230..

Pass don't know still can't work it out.

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Well I've started Die grinding the spare prop I have so far I have managed to increase the movement a bit, I'll finish and take some pics tomorrow.

the UJ itself has also met Mr DG to allow the flange to move more.

Just need to trial fit it and see if the yokes touch on full axle droop.

if this fails I'll get one made.

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should be fine, i normally work out the angle it needs to run at and mark it up on the bench, saves all that putting on and taking off of the prop all the time ;) i have a wide angle yoke prop but still had to fettle it to run at more of an angle :rolleyes:

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Trial fitted the modded prop today,

pics show the extra travel available over standard, I've checked how much the axle droops and the modded prop has plenty to spare whereas the standard one had the yokes touching at 12-6 o'clock

funny as 3-9 o'clock on the prop gave more movement anyway.

I'm hoping this will last a while and if it doesn't I'll get a 30degree wide angled one made.

Standard prop at 12/6 o'clock position

IMG_2023.JPG

Modded prop at 12/6 o'clock position

IMG_2030.JPG

Grinding at 12/6 o'clock position on sliding joint

IMG_2034.JPG

Grinding at 3/9 o'clock position on flange

IMG_2045.JPG

Refrences to clock so if you need to do this yourself it will give a clue of sorts

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