white90 Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 I need a wide angle one as mine keeps knocking out UJs I'm thinking over refitting standard shock mounts removing rear cones and retaining the rear springs instead, just need to grind off the extended bump stops anyone else recently purchased a wide angled rear prop and where from? Propshaft clinic are out of the 3" slipper joints at the moment/Gwyn Lewis is on holiday, so I have time to think it over, So I'm wondering what is best: rtn to standard rear axle set up without any dislocation or wait and get a new propshaft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bull Bar Cowboy Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 I expect it’s the t/box end that goes……………. I do about one every 12K miles ……… mine is lifted 3 inches (don’t ask) with dislocation cones. I always try to get genuine GKN driveline joints ……….. they seem to last longer All I do is make sure its well greased every 3K service…………. Its also used off road every week. Edited to add........ I grease them with Moly slip CV grease …………. That also seems to help Ian Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted October 23, 2006 Author Share Posted October 23, 2006 OR I could Die grind the transfer box flange joint to allow more movement, the joint isn't even discolouring before it is knackered! I have a complete spare prop and a spare transfer box flange. a new rear isn't too ££ but I'll have to wait for one. genuine GKN joints always used and greased monthly or more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ciderman Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 Wilson driveshafts , Not sure where they are but Shaun Harris (bush Doctor) got two beautys from there , They were very high quality. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JST Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 my last rear UJ went at the diff end after about 200 miles as you know. EOM part as well. yours going T box end as Iain suggets? i would keep setup as is and get the wide angle prop when they are available, you wont need it before end of Nov will you? i have std bump stops if you do require them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted October 23, 2006 Author Share Posted October 23, 2006 Cheers I have a complete spare prop if needed but I'll probably buy one when they come available. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mwncidur Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 is it a 90 rear prop your spare? if it is, try and get an early (70's i think) rangie rear propshaft. they are wide angle. then just cut and shut it to suit, I have done loads which have been used for trialling and raceing. none have broken (yet) and balance has never been noticeable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted October 23, 2006 Author Share Posted October 23, 2006 thanks I'll see what is around as I can't get one from any supplier I would be happy to use for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted October 23, 2006 Share Posted October 23, 2006 Tony, you can easily make a standard prop in to a wide angle with the aid of little more than an angle grinder! I've done a couple now - it's pretty easy! Also, if you fit actual Genuine UJ's, not OEM - they are better no mater what people say. I think there is a lot of tat that people are hawking as OEM at the moment! Can't remember the last UJ that died on my truck and I don't think you have more travel than me. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted October 23, 2006 Author Share Posted October 23, 2006 any chance of some more detail please Si(easy to follow detail preferably) I have a complete spare prop that I can practice on. the UJs I've been buying are GKN metal capped ones listed as heavy duty items but the yokes are touching on articulation I guess this is destroying them . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 I was chatting to a mate about this (dave H) I run a 3"-5" lift and never suffered prop problems but he did point out that the Visco's it taking all the snap out of the drive line which may be why I never had any problems... I never had issues with standard 300tdi rear prop I had it on for two years I bought it new and sold it to Mark90 when I smashed the truck up and it was as good when I took it off as it was when I fitted it. We could be wrong but may explane why I could never understand your problems with props..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dollythelw Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 How about - tie the diff to keep it within the UJs range - then you can keep the suspension as it is? would that help at all? I use Morris grease and GKN UJs on propshaft clinic shafts, they seem to hold up pretty well and the service has always been really good Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted October 24, 2006 Author Share Posted October 24, 2006 Jules The travel on the rear allows the yokes to touch on the standard prop this is knocking the UJs out regularly. the front prop was swapped for a double carden one to overcome a vibration around 60mph after the castor correction arms were fitted. that has been fine since but the rear has had more new UJs than I care to remember. I'm waiting on the propshaft clinic to get 3" sliders in so that can build a prop, or I'll try the Simon route of the grinder to allow more movement of a standard prop. I hope that expalins it as I have nothing on the car to cause these ongoing probs that loads of others don't also have fitted. James was suffering premature UJ failure till he fitted a wider angled rear prop. the Propshaft clinic advised me the standard prop is a 12 degree one and thier modified version is a 30degree one and will solve the issues I'm having. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
simonr Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 Right - easy to follow...... Cut/grind the flanges so they look a bit like this: This stops the yokes from touching the flange. You may need to grind a little off the shaft as well in some cases. Si Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted October 24, 2006 Author Share Posted October 24, 2006 Cheers Simon I'll take pics of mine when I do it tomorrow morning as I have to go to work this pm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jules Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 JulesThe travel on the rear allows the yokes to touch on the standard prop this is knocking the UJs out regularly. the front prop was swapped for a double carden one to overcome a vibration around 60mph after the castor correction arms were fitted. that has been fine since but the rear has had more new UJs than I care to remember. I'm waiting on the propshaft clinic to get 3" sliders in so that can build a prop, or I'll try the Simon route of the grinder to allow more movement of a standard prop. I hope that expalins it as I have nothing on the car to cause these ongoing probs that loads of others don't also have fitted. James was suffering premature UJ failure till he fitted a wider angled rear prop. the Propshaft clinic advised me the standard prop is a 12 degree one and thier modified version is a 30degree one and will solve the issues I'm having. But I had (twist of index of 1150) crancked arms, 3" + lift and far more power than you and I drive like a arse. but never had front of rear props troubles My gearbox must sit lower in the chasse of have a diffrant profile as a 4sp Auto and BW visco transfure box to your LT230.. Pass don't know still can't work it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rtbarton Posted October 24, 2006 Share Posted October 24, 2006 try these http://www.propshaft.co.uk/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted October 24, 2006 Author Share Posted October 24, 2006 Well I've started Die grinding the spare prop I have so far I have managed to increase the movement a bit, I'll finish and take some pics tomorrow. the UJ itself has also met Mr DG to allow the flange to move more. Just need to trial fit it and see if the yokes touch on full axle droop. if this fails I'll get one made. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 should be fine, i normally work out the angle it needs to run at and mark it up on the bench, saves all that putting on and taking off of the prop all the time i have a wide angle yoke prop but still had to fettle it to run at more of an angle Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted October 25, 2006 Author Share Posted October 25, 2006 Trial fitted the modded prop today, pics show the extra travel available over standard, I've checked how much the axle droops and the modded prop has plenty to spare whereas the standard one had the yokes touching at 12-6 o'clock funny as 3-9 o'clock on the prop gave more movement anyway. I'm hoping this will last a while and if it doesn't I'll get a 30degree wide angled one made. Standard prop at 12/6 o'clock position Modded prop at 12/6 o'clock position Grinding at 12/6 o'clock position on sliding joint Grinding at 3/9 o'clock position on flange Refrences to clock so if you need to do this yourself it will give a clue of sorts Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Andy Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 any know how much you can grind out of a prop before it's too weak for the job? looks a nice cheap mod, i just wonder how far you can take it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tonk Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 my wide angle runs to about 45 degrees, thats alot taken out, no probs at all Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
will_warne Posted October 25, 2006 Share Posted October 25, 2006 Nice, simple mod, Tony. Have you tested it on full articulation yet? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white90 Posted October 26, 2006 Author Share Posted October 26, 2006 Yes and no problems with it binding. no (more) vibrations noted on a 70mile drive yesterday inc a motorway run at 70mph Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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