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MUD-UK Dash Console Offer

Kev Baldwin

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I had originally posted the offer of 10% discount to all LR4x4 members on our new dash console back at the start of October on this thread. A few members were quick to take up that offer, however, with the thread quietening off, the offer kinda got hidden and forgotten about.

With JST resurrecting the thread with details of his MUD dash install, I thought it a timely moment to extend the offer of 10% discount to anyone ordering a MUD Dash Console throughout November. When you call, just remember to quote LR4x4 to get your discount.

For further details on the console click here




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Excellent and a Kind offer Kevin

James's one looks superb fitted.

I'll have a look at his and see if I can convince myself I need one.

Although I won't have the wonky switches like him :)

copy of James install:

Well having decided to fit ARBs over the summer I needed somewhere for the three switches to go plus I still had the CB head unit cable tied to the dash and the engine fan switch was still ‘jammed’ in a gap on the dash since that went in a year ago. So I looked at prices of what I could find, thought I’m not paying that and decided to make my own, shame really as I only had 3mm ali and not a lot of time. Hence it came out bad, functional, but bad.


I therefore followed this thread with interest to see what would come up, having seen the scorpion ones and the other copies with a scorpion price to match them when the MUD came along it looked good value for money. A couple of PMs to Kev and one was on its way at forum discount price at the beg of this month.

Well eventually got around to fitting it last week. Initial impression is that there is more bubble wrap in the box than product! Its very well packaged and came the day after ordering which explains the steep £8 or so postage. It also comes with a well put together instruction booklet that even I could follow.

The cover its self is a strong black plastic with the two circle indents in the bottom corners for the RWW and ciggy lighter, nothing on the front case is predrilled. It is easy to work with, drill etc and surprisingly strong, the best way I found to make/enlarge switch holes was to drill them out then file the edges. Hand file worked best, dremmel just clogged (but it had been used for ali previously!!) you can mount what ever you want where ever you want on the front so its pretty versatile. My initial plan was to mount the stereo and CB one above the other with the switches on the top edge, but looking at where the wiring would go it looked to be tight from the angles. Ditto I think a CB/Stereo in the top angled mount would make for interesting wiring on a top row of switches as the angles are too tight in my opinion. (the back of the CB could foul the wires on the back of the switches.)


I also don’t think you could get a CB in the angle and a stereo in the top horizontal slot, unless both were very short! If you intend to fit a row of gauges, again this will be tight it you have the stereo/CB anywhere other than the bottom horizontal position. Alternatively there is tonnes of room to mount the gauges in the sides as per my voltmeter. If I do get more gauges they will go in the top angled part of the dash. I have also gapped the current switches but you could add more and remove the whole section to put them in as one long bank.


The back and side plates are sheet steel? (1mm?) painted black, and predrilled. These fit as shown with all but two of the mounting screw going all the way through the plastic trim and into the metal behind. They are all self tappers.


You don’t necessarily need to remove any of the front dash, it depends what you intend to fit where on the front cover, as I wanted the stereo at the bottom it need to come out, angle grinder was the best option. (note this was already out from the previous dash monstrosity!) You are also meant to mount the unit central to the vehicle, ashtray is a good ref point, although if you do this you loose any decent space in the cubby hole next to the instruments where I like to keep a mug/drinks bottle, so mins is further to the left.

The finished product:



The CB is mounted to the existing dash rather than the new one. The new dash is held onto the backing plates by two side locating screws at the top and then two further screws through the base of the front edge (under the dash) into the existing trim and metal work.

The whole structure is very solid and despite my slightly wonky looking switches looks bloody good, but then the last one was very bad. It will also serve to hold extra gauges and switches in the future should the need arise. For £50 or so its bloody good value, well made and easy to fit. The only prob now is it makes the rest of the wagon look even worse!!! Wouldn’t mind one for the TD5 now as that’s running the old style dash with the same problem, no room for switches etc! Overall a good product and I would certainly use them again. (and no I don’t know them/was asked to do this etc, its just my personal findings).

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wonky switches are great, it means some of them are vertical when off roading!

gloves - bugger, caught black handed, just a fetish i have, any problem with that?

steering aid - dont knock it until you have tried it! granted no use for road work.

Tony - bet your switches go in wonky.

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the ones you fit to a new console that was! any way its character!

there good for tractors so therefore i reckoned they would be good for events etc, not tried out yet competing, although a PITA on the road, time will see if it becomes a permanent mod.

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I got a Mud console delivered during the week. Will be fitting ARBs soon and I'm needing somewhere to put the extra switches, tidy up the switches I already have and sort out the CB and radio/cassette which are lashed to the dash at the moment :blink::lol:

The Mud console's a nice piece of kit -- more versatile and less than half the price of the "competition" :D:ph34r:

Just FWIW I found a guy in the US who can supply small quantities of Carling Technology Contura II switches (these are the switches supplied with ARBs) at a good price and he's got a very wide range of actuators (the bit on the front with the switch legend) available. The guy's called Shane Linse, see copy of e-mail below I got from him:

Thanks for your interest. Yes I still have these. For the heated seats I have been using the hi/lo actuator. I have included a full list of everything i have. I haven't done any overseas orders so I will check on the price. I am on vaction right now, and will be home on monday. If you have any quesions please let me know.

You can view the actuators, brackets, switches, and tool at:



SPST (ON-OFF) or DPDT (ON-OFF-ON) switches with a green light and a red indicator light $8.00

DPDT Momentary (ON-OFF-ON) NON LIGHTED switch: $6.00

DPDT Momentary (ON-OFF-ON) LIGHTED with green only, no action light $8.00

SPST Momentary (ON-OFF) with green light only, no action light: $8.00

Actuators: $3.00

Single, end, or middle brackets: $1.00

3 mount bracket: $2.50

6 mount bracket: $5.50

Bracket Plug: $0.75

Removal tools: $.50 ea (recommend 2)

Wire loom: .20 ft

S&H: $7.00

Living in Alaska my shipping options are limited. I can only do priority mail and you should receive a shipment in 3-7 days depending where you are located.

You need 1 actuator per switch. You do not need a mounting bracket, but makes for a cleaner and easier install, especially for multiple switches.

I Prefer payment threw Paypal to my e-mail addy of roan65@yahoo.com

Currant Actuators available

ACT101 Head Lights

ACT102 CL/ID Lights

ACT103 Trailer CL/ID lights

ACT104 Driving Lights

ACT105 Fog Lights

ACT106 Backup Lights

ACT108 Power Window

ACT109 Engine Fan

ACT110 Mirror Defog

ACT111 Mirror (In and Out)

ACT114 High / Low

ACT112 Engine Brake

ACT118 LH/RH Tank

ACT121 Beacon

ACT124 Idle Speed

ACT202 Air Axle

ACT204 Mirror

ACT205 Marker

ACT206 Flood

ACT209 Dump

ACT210 Tailgate

ACT215 Rear Flood Lites

ACT216 Hyd Pump

ACT218 Body Lights

ACT220 AUX Heater

ACT221 Webasto

ACT225 Idle Shutdown Override

ACT328 0/0 Lights

ACT329 Alarm

ACT330 Mobile Phone

ACT331 Tire Chains

ACT332 Engine Warm up

ACT333 Fender Marker

ACT334 (pic only) Engine Warmup

ACT335 Spare

ACT336 Trailer Backup

ACT338 Rack Lights

ACT339 Fuel Heater



ACT345 Load Lite

ACT346 Work Lights

ACT347 Tank LTS

ACT348 Power Take Off

ACT000 Blank

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Excellent links for the ARB/Carling switches and mounting brackets. Nice work Bill!

For anyone looking for the popular Eaton/Durite type switches, here are another couple of links.


Simtek FWIW, Simtek manufacture the wiring looms for Bowler.

A couple of switch tips.

Using mounting frames or 'gang mounts' makes any multiple switch installation far easier and tidier, (& straighter!) since you only need to cut one hole rather than several.

Using multi-plugs on the back of the switches looks neater, but they do take up a lot of extra depth behind the switch and console. Both Carling and Eaton switches are fitted with standard spade terminals so using spades will save on space.



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