ThreePointFive Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 This is the stupidest question I have asked in a long time, but I know I'm missing something obvious and looking/poking around hasn't changed the result so I have to ask here. First - the engine is a 4.0 V8 with LT85, sitting in a rolling chassis - no pedals, nothing plumbed in, just engine, gearbox, props and axles/wheels. The crank pulley needs to come off so I can fit the MS trigger wheel. I've put the car in gear, I've cable tied the handbrake in the 'on' position (as the cable isn't fitted) and I've chocked the wheels. I'm turning the crank pulley nut anti-clockwise as I've learned it's a standard thread, but the engine won't get to a point where it's locked for me to exert any pressure on it - it just spins and spins. So, could it be that the clutch is not able to lock the engine and gearbox without the rest of the system plumbed in? It's a new clutch, fitted a few weeks ago by someone who knew what they are doing, and the car will move on rotating the crank without the handbrake on. Is there something completely different I've overlooked? I'm not going to pretend I have much of a clue what I'm doing, but that's the point of learning. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
taz90 Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 try and borrow a very good battery impact gun Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tanuki Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 Remove the starter-motor and make up a suitable wedge-tool to engage between the ring gear and the bellhousing. Then get percussive with the big nut. Air-powered 'rattle-guns' are useful. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Disco-Ron Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 Try putting it in a higher gear............ ie, less engine revolutions per wheel revolution.... meaning the engine has to turn less to hopefully be to the point of cracking the nut off........ when it gets on tension, belt the socket bar with a mallet or something to shock it.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 Or just use the starter motor to turn the engine with tool wedged to the chassis. Works plenty fine Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 I use a 3/4" air impact gun, comes straight off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 I use a 3/4" air impact gun, comes straight off. Are there impact guns and impact guns? Mine wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding, let alone a crank bolt. It's ok for undoing nuts quickly, but I often have to crack them first. The impact gun was a cheapo Aldi special, the compressor is a 150psi (think it's set at 120 though) 100 litre 3hp wolf Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 Are there impact guns and impact guns? Mine wouldn't pull the skin off a rice pudding, let alone a crank bolt. It's ok for undoing nuts quickly, but I often have to crack them first. The impact gun was a cheapo Aldi special, the compressor is a 150psi (think it's set at 120 though) 100 litre 3hp wolf Yep, when buying look for the max torque figure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted August 31, 2014 Author Share Posted August 31, 2014 Or just use the starter motor to turn the engine with tool wedged to the chassis. Works plenty fine I get how that would work, but in this case the starter is already out, no power to the vehicle of any sort at the moment. I had looked at the higher gear/less rotation idea but because of the clutch situation I can't seem to get anything above second, it just won't engage. I don't have access to any airlines so that's not an option. It looks like I'll have to try getting a wedge into the ring gear and finding the longest breaker bar I can to give a shock load. Thanks for the suggestions, I will post up when I give it another go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 In which case go for a 3/4" drive breaker bar and a bit of scafold pole. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 Have a look at my posts here. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=38651&hl I made a tool for both undoing and doing up this nut on my tdi. The 'lock it on the the gears/clutch method' has never worked for me as there is too much slack in huge drivetrain to make it a success. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CwazyWabbit Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 Have a look at my posts here. http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=38651&hl I made a tool for both undoing and doing up this nut on my tdi. The 'lock it on the the gears/clutch method' has never worked for me as there is too much slack in huge drivetrain to make it a success. I don't think there is anywhere on a 4.0 V8 pulley to attach a tool like that Richard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 Ah, worth a try. I don't know the V8. Are there any holes that could be used? The 'normal' tdi pulley holder has protrusions that insert into the crank damper IIRC. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted August 31, 2014 Author Share Posted August 31, 2014 Actually there are two holes in the pulley which could be used, I was trying to find something to put through them braced against the chassis front but didn't have anything small enough to fit into the holes yet strong enough to withstand the forces. A length of steel shaped and bolted through would stop the pulley turning once it hit a chassis leg, it would also allow the pulley to be torqued up properly on refitting... I'll have to look into that. Thanks for the suggestion. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 31, 2014 Share Posted August 31, 2014 it would also allow the pulley to be torqued up properly on refitting.... That was always my problem with the undo it on the the starter theory... They never explain how to torque it back up. As above, I always found the transmission had too much slack in it to lock everything up enough to do this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 You could wrap a rope around the pulley? I've wedged stuff in the starter hole before, but don't be bostin' the side out of the casting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ThreePointFive Posted September 1, 2014 Author Share Posted September 1, 2014 Well, pleased to announce - it's off! With a steel bar through the starter hole and applying a little force on the breaker bar, came off with very little resistance. I would never have got it off with the transmission locked, just too much slack in everything but I wouldn't want to try it with big loads put through the bar, I can see that screwing the bell housing easily as you suggest, Idris. Getting it back together will be interesting as I won't be using the same method - I'll have to rig up something to lock the pulley. This forum yet again comes through for me, thank you all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Team Idris Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 The classic is to find something strong to wedge in there. Something that already comes in a variety of sizes and is easy to hand. Then undo the pulley bolt and listen to the metallic clunk as the 1/2" socket falls into the bell housing Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwakers Posted September 1, 2014 Share Posted September 1, 2014 moral of the story ( i learned this one doing a 200tdi) do the above but tie a length of string to the socket so when it does fall in(and it will) you can retrieve it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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