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Too long :o

Well, to be precise, we were nose diving at Sunday’s trial with Shropshire Off Road Club. So I came home and cut the front off. I need it to cut-and-doze rather than slap-and-climb. (If that makes sense)

C7040265-8352-4CCE-90B4-5F9C67052058.jpeg

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I also want the winch off the front, but still have a front winch.

yes, I am aware of the irony of inventing a sliding fairlead only to change to ‘vector’ :P

Anyhoo, two hours fun involving wrecking a 40mm hole saw and beating the life out of the LHD internal brace it is mostly out :)

C395DB1C-D85A-473A-8975-7D3F163E2AB3.jpeg

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Weirdly, after much struggling, this couldn’t really have come out better? I get a bit more chassis strength and the rope pipe is straight.

i am thinking of putting the roof winch back in, running the rope vertically to a pulley and back down to a floor pulley. That should self reeve happily on its own.

9A398174-DCF6-4CA4-B1E2-9DD6D4A180E0.jpeg

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Shorter, but is it short enough?

Will it cut through earth, or still flump into it like the front skid plate did? There is a LOT less weight that before. (No valves, tank, pipes, bumper mount)

C457486E-5679-4748-8919-FD6FF7D207A5.jpeg

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How come the back of the bonnet is so high? Does it interfere with your eyeline?

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Oooh, good question :)

It is as steep as it can feasibly be before I can’t see the front edge. You could call it a negative-virtual-lift, because the engine sits much higher in a Range Rover classic than in a series one Landy. Folk normally jack the body up to allow for the wheel movement, but It was never able to take the bonnet in the normal position and last time I needed more space I gave it the full lift.

the gauges are now along its back edge. They are outside the cab area.

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I think you may need some sort of fairlead on the exit tube but I guess you have already thought of that. Here's what's on my ibex.

IMAG1114.thumb.jpg.c1b9f1e1856d9b504280412e24709253.jpg

Sorry pictures a bit blurry but you get the idea.

Mike

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They have some at rakeway, but they are large top-rope-line ones. So really my plan is to wait a bit and fabricate a steel one or turn out an ally one.

Or go insane and get an SS one made :)

I figured it was the easy part compared to the stuff at the other end of the tube, which will be tricky and a half. 

Also, love your truck :D

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A nice picture someone took yesterday and some vid by another kind person :)

Shropshire Off Road Club

 

 

087FCEB4-0BB4-47E3-9AB3-F671932ABA0C.jpeg

Edited by Team Idris

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That thing is amazing and the work you have put in is epic.

How do you intend to get the front winch rope to lay properly after exiting the winch rope pipe in the chassis? Does something after the end of the pipe move  as it lays or is there a fairlead type arrangement or doughnut to be added? How far is the winch from the end of the last unmovable guide? Where is the front winch in relation to say the three bolts for the gearbox mount or any other handy datum? 

 

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It is all a wiggle and a challenge to fit Jamie, but:

I can get the battery under the drivers seat with 100mm below the floor line and 100mm above. All I have to miss is the rear donut mount.

I shouldn’t need two batteries for its next perceived race work, so the second battery gets removed.

It smells like the back is going to loose about 6” in length? Quarter pipe cross member moves up as well as forward.

All that moving around puts the front winch mount as far back as possible, just behind the centre line of the rear axel on the left hand side, but still inside the LH chassis rail.

The rear winch rope may have to pass over front winch motor?

The fuel tank also goes up and forward :o

The front rope then has 2 foot to self reeve before it passes through the big square central crossmember. If that hole is a tube-slot it gets more free movement.

 

Aim: get the back axel load heavier than the front, ditch the ALRC silhouette, reduce weight globally and make the front as light as possible so it kicks over terrain rather than ploughing in.

I want my cake and eat it :D

 

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A lot of work for 200mm cut off the back end?

yes, but the back end was only ever like this because of ALRC rules. It would have been even shorter in 1995 given a choice. Now there are many more considerations and 100mm isn’t worth it and 300mm makes everything not fit. 200mm and the porridge is just right :D

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That looks like it’ll work. Winch is pointing the right way, but I need to turn the truck around to sort the run between it and the chassis tube. (Narrow garage)

The vegetable-steamer exhaust silencer is back out of retirement. Being food grade stainless it is as good as new :)

F80CA8EB-C4D9-42D7-B6C9-3529E164A593.jpeg

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Very interesting !

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1 hour ago, Arjan said:

Very interesting !

Yes, a most interesting mechanical puzzle. Will the rope go over the big 1972 box-section centre cross-member or will I have to ‘tube’ that as well?

It is too close to call just looking at it. Too much radiator pipe covers to see the front tube from the back.

Excited to find out :) 

Front donut will be a Goodwinch roller fairlead stainless-tube that is lobster cut into a circle. I can’t find anything to buy?

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Will you be ditching the alrc rules and competition altogether? If so, would you not be better off starting from scratch with a tube frame and transfer all the bits over to it?
I've been cursing working round a chassis after recently starting work on an off roader based on a Volvo C304. I said to myself I'd never build another buggy again with a chassis when I built my last one, this was meant to be a quick scrapheap challenge type build that's now grown legs and I'm regretting it already. Every time I look at it and think of the time I've wasted and compromises I've made instead of just sitting everything on sand bags where I want it and join the dots with tube. That said, I haven't owned it for long, that thing of yours is almost like a pet the time you've had it, would be a bit like shooting  your dog if you broke it.

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On 7/31/2018 at 9:59 PM, miketomcat said:

I think you may need some sort of fairlead on the exit tube but I guess you have already thought of that. Here's what's on my ibex.

IMAG1114.thumb.jpg.c1b9f1e1856d9b504280412e24709253.jpg

Sorry pictures a bit blurry but you get the idea.

Mike

I couldn’t see any for sale, so I knocked this up from some fairlead tube

2C1BEDC9-B08C-401A-A25E-EB6F05429B86.jpeg

09293C6D-AF8B-49BD-BAEE-A61362BA981E.jpeg

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19 hours ago, Jamie_grieve said:

Will you be ditching the alrc rules and competition altogether? If so, would you not be better off starting from scratch with a tube frame and transfer all the bits over to it?
I've been cursing working round a chassis after recently starting work on an off roader based on a Volvo C304. I said to myself I'd never build another buggy again with a chassis when I built my last one, this was meant to be a quick scrapheap challenge type build that's now grown legs and I'm regretting it already. Every time I look at it and think of the time I've wasted and compromises I've made instead of just sitting everything on sand bags where I want it and join the dots with tube. That said, I haven't owned it for long, that thing of yours is almost like a pet the time you've had it, would be a bit like shooting  your dog if you broke it.

Sort story :D

me and dad bought it in 1991, started it in 1992 and finished it in 1995, in his proper wide garage with a pit. Plenty of room to work on this one while racing it and starting on the next.

he moved :o

Not the end of the world for me though, because a lot of normal bits fit. I even used the original rangy bulkhead and tunnel to save time and use easily available bits. (Column and brakes).

What I loose in performance I gain in availability :) it mostly only stopped due to cash flow while at university.

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The donut goes on the end of the tube I fitted back in June. Then it goes under this modified alternator pulley to change direction to the rear mounted winch. The pulley is across from the HP22 selector arm. 

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8B0C26AC-FA36-41E7-986A-49029BA72C88.jpeg

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Goodwinch take off the roller fairleads and put on slots for rope. They get thrown in a container. I grabbed some and use them for stuff like this :)

The mushroom fairlead is also made from one.

7A812D26-C4ED-48AF-A9B9-747D2AE0ED60.jpeg

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This thread is missing the after/before back-end reduction photo :)

It helps a lot, it didn’t drag its back end at all on Sundays trial with ‘Shropshire Off Road Club’.

The mirror on the back is to see that the front winch rope is behaving itself. New LED side lights as well :D

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B1DE9D91-0855-401C-8BCE-64615B46B993.jpeg

Edited by Team Idris

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Next time you want to make a doughnut fairlead and haven't got the creativity you had to lobster cut some tube, buy some stainless pipe elbows and weld them up. :) 

  • Haha 1

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My ideal would be one inch stainless steel bar hot bent :)

I gave the Beast a good clean today and the rear tyres are wrecked ! I cannot believe how we have shredded the corners off the tread :o

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