80" series 1 parts

[Tetsu0san]

Hi all

My Dad just bought an 80" Series 1 and after getting started on rebuilding it we need a few parts, so I have a few questions on the differences between models and parts.

Firstly, are the swivels the same on later models? The 80" is a 1952 but the swivels are a little rough. Did the swivels change much from here to the Series 3 and beyond?

Secondly, engines. It's got a 2.0L engine which is missing a bearing cap so this might not be such a good option for a rebuild. We also have a later 2.0L which has a wider gap between the middle bores, but this has seized solid. It's a more viable rebuild but are engines for these hard to find? We have a 2 1/4 petrol from a later Series which is an ex MOD rebuilt unit which we were hoping could be used as leverage to purchase an earlier engine. Personally I don't think the 2 1/4 engines are worth much, but I could be wrong.

Lastly (for the moment), brakes. One of the front brakes is missing the back plate and drum. Are these the same as later models?

So basically, what is drastically different between what we have and later Series 2's, 2a's and 3's.

Cheers!

[Les Henson]

The 2 engines are not that different. Siamese bore engine has the cylinder liners in pairs, but this caused overheating issues, so the spread bore engine was brought in ( seperate cylinder liners). Parts for these engines are still available (a set of piston kits are around the £200 mark). I completely rebuilt one of these engines a few years ago (ex War Dept 80"), and it wasn't really that expensive. Join the S1 club - their website has all the suppliers listed.

http://www.lrsoc.com

Les

[oneandtwo]

Swivels are the same, I converted my 80" to railko bushes with the conversion kits, although I had to machine a bit off the top or bottom pins in my lathe - was about 6 years ago now I can't remember exactly!

10" brake back plates are the same.

[Team Idris]

52' is getting toward the right side of weird

For the 2 1/4 you would need the right bell housing. Most people fit S3 box with this later engine.

I have the later 2L engine and it hasn't the reputation for eating head gaskets. But the Siamese is correct for that car and I don't think they are evil on blowing through gaskets with normal show use.

[BSF]

Most things from S2 and S3 can be made to fit. Swivels and all outboard bits are no problem. Rear axels are a bit of a problem as the originals are semi-floating and narrower than 2s & 3s. Almost any Land Rover engine can be made to fit, the main differences being that the IOE engines (Series 1 1600 and 2ltr + Rover car straight 6s) need the series 1 bell housing and as has been said the series 2/3 engines need the series 2/3 bell housing. It would be a bit daft to fit a later series bell housing to a Series 1 gearbox unless you really like double declutching. If you do go for the series 2/3 bell housing or gearbox you will need to come up with a different clutch linkage, probably hydraulic.

If you want a "two and a quarter" petrol I have two cluttering up the workshop, take your pick.

V8s fit with adapter plates, but you fill find advice on that elsewhere.

I am fairly sure you could even get a 200 TDI in, but maybe not with the turbo on it.

Brakes? I fitted discs on the front with the Rocky Mountain kit, without taking the wheel off they are almost undetectable to the rivet counters. They work best with a servo on the fronts.

To answer your last question "what is different?"; Axels, rear springs, prop shafts, steering box (but S2 can be adapted) brakes (whole system, but largely interchangeable ), clutch linkage, bell housing (as above) and all the bodywork .

Good luck!

[Soren Frimodt]

As stated by the others, many parts will fit/can be made to fit from later series. If you have a look through my thread (also a '52 80" 2litre) in the members vehicles, you can see how I fitted a 2,25P and Series 3 gearbox in mine, didn't alter as much as paint on the chassis to do this, but did have to alter the trans-tunnel a bit at the starter. I also kept the mechanical clutch linkage 'cus I'm a sucker for simplicity.

[missingsid]

I would love a S2/3 bell housing on my S1 box to use later hydraulic clutch (have modified S2 linkage at the mo) but I was told they do not fit due to bearing or shaft distance differences?

Marc.

[secondjeremy]

S2/2a gearbox goes straight in a S1 and connects up to the existing clutch linkage - I've done the job.

If you think the weight of a S1 clutch pedal is too much - try a weaker pull-off spring - it makes quite a difference.

There's no advantage to the hydraulic clutch mechanism unless you enjoy mending the hydraulics. I'll never understand why they fitted it when they could have fixed the pivot in the S2 pendant pedal and made it operate the clutch directly with a simple crank and pull rod. (Or a cable but they weren't around in 1958)

[missingsid]

S2/2a gearbox goes straight in a S1 and connects up to the existing clutch linkage - I've done the job.If you think the weight of a S1 clutch pedal is too much - try a weaker pull-off spring - it makes quite a difference.There's no advantage to the hydraulic clutch mechanism unless you enjoy mending the hydraulics. I'll never understand why they fitted it when they could have fixed the pivot in the S2 pendant pedal and made it operate the clutch directly with a simple crank and pull rod. (Or a cable but they weren't around in 1958)

S1 V8 with S2 pedal boxes Jag clutch, got rid of carp S1 brake M/C and jets of ice cold water comming through floor straight in to lap/face when wading! One side of S1 ownership not advertised!

Current setup is hacked about S2 hydrolic linkage that mates to std S1 clutch rod. Next best is S3 method, bset is concentric S/C.

As for why not cable? What a pain in the butt broken/stetched cables are, really hate them specially self adjusting!!

S1 T/B lowest gearing, S1 G/B no weak synchcro for 1st 2nd or bevel cut gears of later boxes IIRC??

Marc