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Starting problems very odd any ideas


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Hi Guys I seam to have problem after problem over the last few months starting with the now cured clutch problem

OK my 1990 110 fitted with 200tdi ......After leaving my landy for a while I went to turn the key and NOTHING at first I thought it was the alarm system so re wired all that back in. Made no difference

The next day went out and rapid turn the key in frustration and after about 40 turns it fired in to life next day same thing turn the key and nothing ...rapid turn the key over and over many times and then starts but sluggish...

The more I have driven it the better this problem has got with it only doing it every now and then but still sluggish to start on the first start of the day and if it has done it a few turns of the key will start it rather than 30-40 turns....OK TIME TO SORT IT

I cleaned all my earth straps and battery terminals and then turn the key and BANG fires in to life instant no sluggish start at all....yes mended he thinks....he thinks wrong

I drive it for a whole day must have started it 40 plus times and all is ok good starting ...next few days all ok and instant start on the days first turn over.... then all of a sudden in the middle of the day after driving it turn the key and nothing again turn it off and back on and it starts .......10 mins later turn the key and nothing hold the key on and suddenly wer wer wer very very slow and then fires up .

Its been fine for a whole week after that but went for a new starter anyway .......New starter fitted and connect the earth lead and fire it up and the starter keeps spinning wont disengage ????? New starter is faulty ??? and any ideas PLEASE

New top RAC battery last year

2 years ago new ignition barrel

Thanks guys

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Ok thanks will do but hadn't been behind there at all to disturb stuff .......It was not doing it with the old starter turned it off and fitted the new starter and then wont disengage .....

Buy hay its a Land Rover so will check just in case lol .....Thanks very much ......any other ideas please do post guys and pulling my hair out

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The old starter was put back on temporary and it all works fine so I can only assume it was the new Bearmach starter (£88.95) that was faulty.......(That's being picked up tomorrow for a refund)

I went to Fakenham Auto electrical for another replacement one and they had sold there last WAI one between me phoning and me getting there ARRRRRRRRRR

So for the same as the WAI one £95 They supplied me with a remanufactured Bosch one with the Landy badge stamped into it so presume its a remanufactured genuine one..... (ERR5009) Not sure if thats a good or bad price for one of those

So will see what happens tomorrow when its on.......

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I'm not convinced your starter is the problem - if it's turning the engine over, it works.

On the injector pump, there is a fuel shut-off solenoid. It has a single terminal sticking out which is connected to the battery when the ignition is on. Try connecting a wire directly from this to the battery positive. When you touch the wire on the terminal, it should click faintly.

Try starting. If it starts OK, check the wiring to the terminal including the ignition switch.

Si

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You should be able to check that the ignition switch is sending 12v down to the starter Solenoid - remove the small wire from the starter and put a meter on it - red to the wire and black to a good earth, Get someone to turn the key to the start position and your meter should read 12v, do this a few times to check that it repeats.

Hope you have a meter but if not a 12v bulb will do if its in a holder with two wire tails.

Make sure when fitting your new starter that the wire connectors’ are clean and none of them are toutching an earth of any type.

If all that is good your ignition switch should be OK but you starter solenoid could be U/S or it could just be that the starter is turning but just not throwing the bendex out - this can happen if the battery is low on power.

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Could have been the solenoid, that's what went on the britpart started I had after a years use, very slow engine start speed and intermittent starting... I wouldn't get anything other than a genuine/remanufactured starter after that experience. I ended up just changeling the solenoid on the original failed starter and popped it back in and its been fine 20k down the line.

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Most of the time it is only the solenoid that fails, you can do as said above to check the solenoid.

You can also check the starter by shorting out the two elect posts on the solenoid, be sure you know what you are doing with this one though, you need a heavy duty wire like that on jump leads, it will spark like hell if you don't stab it on hard and can damage the threads on the posts.

This will engage the starter so make sure that you are out of gear.

Sitting here with nothing to do so here ye go or here is how I check a starter when removed.

Place starter on bench.

Connect black jump lead to starter flange and a spare charged battery earth.

Connect red jump lead to starter solenoid post where you removed the battery wire from, don't touch the other connector post.

Use a small lengh of wire and connect or clamp it with the red jump lead at solenoid end and leave the other end loose and make sure this does not touch any metal.

Now get someone to hold the starter as it should jump all being well but easy to hold, keep hands away from the starter shaft.

Take the small wire and touch the terminal that the small wire came from - usually a spade connector - the starter should kick at this point.

Watch the starter and make sure that the gear wheel throws out. If it does the starter and solenoid are OK.

I will not be responsible for any damage to humans or equipment who try this.

This quick sketch may help if needed.

Battery_zpstuxbm5mh.jpg

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Ok all connected up and turn the key and the land rover starts turn the key off and the solenoid still spins the only way to stop it spinning is to disconnect the earth battery terminal ...then put the earth back on and the land rover tries to start the cog clicks in place even with or with out the trigger wire connected or turning the key

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At the back of the starter solenoid there are two posts one should already have a wire in it which goes to the starter motor, the other one is where you connect the battery + wire.

Sorry if I am teaching you how to suck egg's.

The trigger wire, what I would do is start the Land Rover then if the starter is still spinning (solenoid don't spin) pull the trigger wire off and the starter should stop spinning.

Then put a meter on the trigger wire and see if it still sending power down the wire, if it is its not your starter that is at fault but your ignition switch.

Hope this helps.

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I'm now suffering broken Land rover depression ......My whole world has ended LOL ...so the Mrs is taking me out for a slap up meal and a few drinks to cheer me up..........(either that or stop me wining on and on about it lol)

That translates to loads grub and get HAMMERED in my book

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Potentially, you are connecting the battery cable to the wrong post on the solenoid on the new starters. They may look the same as on the old starter motor but could actually be wired the other way! That would make your motor spin when the power is hooked up but the starter wouldn't actually engage until you also fire the solenoid. Potentially!

There should be a relay between the key switch and the starter solenoid. If that is a bit faulty, it may not be supplying much power to the solenoid. That could still be enough to work the new starters but not the old one (see comment above about testing the voltage). More likely, though, is that your old solenoid is sticky and needs a clean or replacement (as also mentioned above).

I'm not a sparkie but have had some starter issues to test my brain lately...

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Ok its gone to my mates and had an auto electrician out and ......with the new starter on with the battery (which is just holding 11 amps) and a booster box on it starts fine and the starter disengages ........But with just the battery fitted to the landy try to start it and the starter keeps spinning ...The auto electricians explanation was that the volts and amps and that if low amps its allowing the starter to arc across and keep spinning ......Does this sound right ????

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