skauldy Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 Guys, At the stage to fit my ARP head bolts. Done a Google search and all kinds of advice, don't follow instructions, do follow, wet torque, dry torque, 60 lbs ft, 90 lbs ft What is the advice here. Also I bought them about 2 years ago and I think this lube came with them. Is this he stuff to use if I a, going to wet torque them. Thanks Shane Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
western Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 Which engine ? are these being fitted to, as you haven't told us that bit of vital info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skauldy Posted September 6, 2015 Author Share Posted September 6, 2015 Which engine ? are these being fitted to, as you haven't told us that bit of vital info. Oops lol. 4.2 RV8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
need4speed Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 The supplied lube is fine. I can't remember how much I torqued up to, but I know it wasn't as high as what ARP recommended. I asked Ray at v8 developments. Someone with a better memory than me will be along shortly Edit: my apologies. I used v8 developments own head bolts. Think I'm suffering from early Alzheimer's.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 60lb ft, wet, ARP lube Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skauldy Posted September 6, 2015 Author Share Posted September 6, 2015 Cool. Thanks guys. So that lube isn't for the head bolts. I have to get a ARP brand lube. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 Yeah that lube is for the 20 minute cam run-in period, liberally apply to cam lobes and lifters. I thought ARP supplied it with the bolts.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skauldy Posted September 6, 2015 Author Share Posted September 6, 2015 None with mine. I'll google and get some. So torque the studs in the block at 60 lb ft and then do I torque the nuts for the heads at rovers recommend torque. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 NO! Studs finger tight -5ftlbs, nuts to 60lbft. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skauldy Posted September 6, 2015 Author Share Posted September 6, 2015 Phew. Thanks Bowie So no lube down into the block just wet the threads where the nuts for the heads go Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rangie46 Posted September 6, 2015 Share Posted September 6, 2015 yep and a wee bit on the washer aswell Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrycol Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 I have just been through this process with a 4.0/4.6 - I assume you mean ARP studs not ARB bolts. The ARP advice is to go to 100lbs but I assume that is with a new block that has never had the OEM stretch bolts in them. People talk about torquing to LR specs but I dont know what they are as the LR specs are to torque to a certain level and then further tighten so many extra degrees - so who knows what the actual torque is. I had the same issue as you - mixed messages. I had a damaged repaired thread and was assured that 90lbs would be good. I did one head that did not have the damaged thread and went to 90lbs no real issue. On the other head the damaged thread failed at 70lbs so I had it repaired properly and went again - again advice was varied but a local mechanic whose advice I valued said 65-70 would be OK but as I am a moderately hi comp I went to 75lbs and had no issues. You must only tighten the studs to finger tight in the block and the threads must be clean. You must use the correct ARP thread lube on the nut end threads, on the washers and on all mating surfaces and torque in three steps in the correct sequence. Based on my experience and the advice I recieved - some good, some bad is to go between 60lbs to 75lbs - 60 is maybe a little low and Ok for a low comp where 75 is at the hi end. If I had to pick a magic number it would be 70lbs. Good luck with it. Garry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cheesy Posted September 7, 2015 Share Posted September 7, 2015 I have just been through this process with a 4.0/4.6 - I assume you mean ARP studs not ARB bolts. The ARP advice is to go to 100lbs but I assume that is with a new block that has never had the OEM stretch bolts in them. People talk about torquing to LR specs but I dont know what they are as the LR specs are to torque to a certain level and then further tighten so many extra degrees - so who knows what the actual torque is. I had the same issue as you - mixed messages. I had a damaged repaired thread and was assured that 90lbs would be good. I did one head that did not have the damaged thread and went to 90lbs no real issue. On the other head the damaged thread failed at 70lbs so I had it repaired properly and went again - again advice was varied but a local mechanic whose advice I valued said 65-70 would be OK but as I am a moderately hi comp I went to 75lbs and had no issues. You must only tighten the studs to finger tight in the block and the threads must be clean. You must use the correct ARP thread lube on the nut end threads, on the washers and on all mating surfaces and torque in three steps in the correct sequence. Based on my experience and the advice I recieved - some good, some bad is to go between 60lbs to 75lbs - 60 is maybe a little low and Ok for a low comp where 75 is at the hi end. If I had to pick a magic number it would be 70lbs. Good luck with it. Garry They are probably talking about the older non yeild head bolts which are 65-70lbs. I would also guess that the ARP recomendation is based on preloading the bolt to around 70% yeild however it sounds like the rover castings are not strong enough for that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skauldy Posted September 7, 2015 Author Share Posted September 7, 2015 Thanks for all the replies guys. Feel much more confident doing the job. Was looking like a black art. Shame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skauldy Posted June 7, 2016 Author Share Posted June 7, 2016 Guy's Sorry to dig this up but i'm finally getting around to this, one last question, i'm about to torque, have lubed up washers and nuts, do i just jump in at 70lbs or do i biuld up gradually as it says in the instal method with the kit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garrycol Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 Use a 3 step process - I used 25, then 50 and then 75 - in the correct order of course. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skauldy Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 Great thanks Garry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Davo Posted June 8, 2016 Share Posted June 8, 2016 http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/167959-v8-arp-stud-torque-numbers.html What I came up with, years ago. About 9000kms later, it seems okay! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skauldy Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 Thanks Davo Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skauldy Posted June 8, 2016 Author Share Posted June 8, 2016 sorry figured it out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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