WesBrooks Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Hi All, My discovery is now stripped nearly as far as it will go before being rebuilt into the Sahara. I had the engine out to access it's condition and found it a right ball ache to get at some of the fasteners. Have many people attempted to make the tunnel removable, or install removable panels to make this process easier? Other option would be to drop engine and gearbox at the same time, but I'm guessing this is not striaght forward, or cheap on the equipment side? Thanks, Wesley. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FridgeFreezer Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 Depends what the intention is - what do you want it to be easier to get to? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted November 30, 2015 Share Posted November 30, 2015 IIRC the early RRC tunnels were removable, perhaps look there? Guessing bell housing/gearbox bolts. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesBrooks Posted December 1, 2015 Author Share Posted December 1, 2015 Thanks for the hint on the RRC I'll look into that. Yes the intention is to make it easier to remove the engine. Not had to tackle the box yet but I'm guessing that if I could drop the box with the help of an engine hoist through the drivers door and straps down through where the tunnel is things may be far easier, or at least safer. Bell housing nuts and bots were a pig to get to. I'm intending on repainting all of the body and want to make it easier to access with less risk fo scraping off body paint trying to get at awkward bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vulcan bomber Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Would cutting and shutting the tunnel not alter the vehicle strength? I have removed and refitted Disco Gearboxes with 2 pairs of hands and a trolley jack with relative ease. And the fixings are pretty easy when you know where they are.... I font however refit the top bell housing bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted December 1, 2015 Share Posted December 1, 2015 Would cutting and shutting the tunnel not alter the vehicle strength? I remember putting very stiff springs on a two door RRC and it cracked the bulkhead near the body mounts so I think there is a bit of flex transmitted to the bulkhead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesBrooks Posted December 2, 2015 Author Share Posted December 2, 2015 There's a roll frame like body going on and very little of the original body left. Just bulkhead and floor up until where the boot floor would have started. I had considered rebuilding the bulkhead entirely as I've got some previous owners dodgy repairs to remove and replace properly. Mixture of rough welding and silicone sealant holding the plane plate repairs! Also need to repair the floor just behind the tunnel in the centre as the sunroof leaks had pooled there and rotted out the floor. Edit: When I say rebuilding I wouldn't be trying to mimic what's there. Just do a basic, but sturdy construction out of box section and decent thickness steel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GW8IZR Posted December 2, 2015 Share Posted December 2, 2015 I'm sure it will be ok, the only reason I mentioned is it reminded me just how shocked I was at the difference in flex between the two chassis types ( '76 RRC v '85 90 ) the deeper chassis rails certainly flexed less. I wonder if the Discovery chassis is closer to the RRC or the 90 in terms of flex? I have a retirement project in mind ;-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soren Frimodt Posted December 2, 2015 Share Posted December 2, 2015 I think, that I you are going to use the Disco heater and bulkhead setup, getting to the top bellhousing bolts will still be a headache, as the engine sits very far forward compared to how much the heater protrudes backwards into the cab. The idea of making the tunnel removable is however a great idea, and I've done it before on RRC's but they were off road racers without any heater. And the old RRC had a removable tunnet, but the portion you removed was huge so you had to take the seats out etc. I think you should try and have close look what is actually doable. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesBrooks Posted December 2, 2015 Author Share Posted December 2, 2015 The heaters have been removed, but will be replaced with a much simpler system sold for kit cars. I am fairly free about where I locate things but that will only really be firmed up after the dashboard has been completed, which needs me to finish the wiring loom diagrams.... This will keep me quiet most of the year! Thankfully there was never any air conditioning on this Disco. Like you say though I was surprised how much space the heating system was taking up! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WesBrooks Posted December 2, 2015 Author Share Posted December 2, 2015 So in summary: ~ if RRC tunnel can be made to fit that may be easiest. ~ Gearbox removal isn't too bad without tunnel access. ~ Removable covers to grant better access to specifically the bell housing bolts would be a big help. ~ Structure around any removable panels would need reinforcement. ~ To make best use of it I'd have to consider it in parrallel to the layout of the interior and dash board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dirtyninety Posted December 2, 2015 Share Posted December 2, 2015 fit the engine and gearbox/transferbox in one lump. It takes a bit of swearing but it saves laying on your back pushing a gearbox up. Done it many times! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted December 2, 2015 Share Posted December 2, 2015 Or..... as it is a kit car, move the bulkhead back 3 inches, or just make the tunnel larger. Personally I found no issue getting the bellhousing bolts, 3 wobbly 3/8" extensions and use the ribs on the gearbox to line up with the bolt. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LiftedDisco Posted December 4, 2015 Share Posted December 4, 2015 You could try contacting Dave Billings at Tornado Motorsport... He has a one piece fibreglass section that covers the gearbox and transfer case which might work for you. Hope this helps! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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