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Soren's Budget Single-Seater Crawler


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  • 2 weeks later...

No matter how uncompromising you build your race car, there are certain necessities, case in point, you just have to be able to listen to some good music when cruising around off road ;)

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Found this nifty little radio with built in speakers! Sure they are only 7W each, but it does make it quite a bit easier to install, and lightweight!

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  • 2 months later...

So time for a bit of an update I reckon :)

Three weeks of blasting around offroad over and done:

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Only had minor issues with the thing so well chuffed about that, and I found out just what a crawling beast it was!

But all was not roses, three days before I had to head home, I broke the weld in the diff of the VW trans. Couldn't be bothered to take it apart and reweld it this close to the end, besides I was really annoyed listening to that rattly old diesel. So decided to do something else. Enter this beauty:

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A 1.8 petrol with Monopoint injection and a 4-speed automatic. The monopoint will be replaced with a good old carb though.

Ripped her out today:

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Besides the obvious choice of an auto with relation to the nice crawliness, there is another reason for choosing this exact gearbox, the diff is much easier to get to!

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And doesn't share oil with the autobox so no chance of weld spatter getting in there and ruining my day :)

There is one major drawback though, and that is the fact that it is an electronic controlled box, and I don't want all those wires on my buggy! Without the electronics it goes into "P" "R" "N" "1st" and "3rd" So fingers crossed hopefully I'll be able to live with only the two forward speeds, and if not I need to find some VW Guru to tell me which solenoids to activate to get the two last gears, have searched the web high and low and it doesn't seem anybody has ever thought of using a vw auto box without the electronics!? :o So if anybody knows somebody I'd be happy to learn some stuff

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Also, the pressure solenoid... you can normally wire these up to 12V if you aren't worried about the ferocity of the change, if you find that too much stick a bulb/resistor in series with it to drop the current, and it will soften the changes depending on the wattage of the bulb you put in there (larger bulb = more fierce!)

If you don't give it enough current though, you can end up burning up clutch packs due to slippage, hence the suggestion to run on 12V :)

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Thanks for trying Ross :i-m_so_happy:

Good stuff Bowie! Your Google-foo is clearly better than mine :D Should be possible to figure it out via that diagram, at least I can see which wire goes to which solenoid without having to take the box apart. Will have an in-depth look when I get home from Work :)

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Turns out this gearbox control conundrum has turned into a 3-piece puzzle. In the first PDF I found out yesterday that it actually shows which solenoids does what in each gear, super! And the second PDF tells me which connector goes to which solenoid, perfect you might think, however they are reffered to in -nXX- numbers in the second PDF and has no numbers in the first PDF I can just see from a picture which one it is. So all I need now is something that tells me which solenoid is called -n89-, -n90- etc..

But I'm sure I will get there in the end :D

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In second PDF they're referred to as solenoid position 1,2,3,4,5,6 as well, and in the first PDF thus matches up, no? Looking at schematic in first PDF gives you the wire colours then.... :)

In the table on page 34 and 35 they are also referred to as position 1,2,3,4,5,6....

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Another well spent afternoon, got the engine lined up and dropped in:

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It still sits at an angle like the diesel, because it simply has too, to clear the sump, however I've straightened this quite a bit more, which also was necessary do to the much more bulky transmission. But its a plus for the driveshaft as well so nothing bad in that. It does mean I had to cut a section of the chassis at the front though, but it doesn't really contribute to anything since I've welded in that big ol' bumper.

Engine mounts are close to done, going solid mounts with this petrol engine, shouldn't be a problem and it does mean I can make it a more snug fit :)

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