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Chassis Straightening


WesBrooks

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Have you tried a big sledge?

Do you know where it is bent, before or after cross member?

If it is just after the cross member then a piece of hard wood to protect the leg, and a large sledge should move it.

Mind you, are you sure it wasn't like that from factory? 10mm is probably within LR tolerances. :)

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It had been involved in a front end prang at some point. Damage appears to be limited to in front of the cross member.

I've been looking for an excuse to get a sledge hammer! A Wilko sledge is a reasonable expense verses the £100 - 200 for the hydraulic pump and ram, particularly if I buy a 10 but find I need a 20!

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Wes - definitely try a sledge first. If its safe to do so try a little heat at the point of divergence, particularly on the side which needs to stretch more.

If it doesn't work some tool hire places do hydraulic rams and pad jacks, some of them hand pumped as well as with powerpacks.

From my past experience in straightening steel structures, although I have to say not chassis,, you generally need a higher rated than you would expect. The higher rated jacks are just as controllable as a 10T but generally are a fair bit bigger dimension wise, and there isn't a massive difference in the hire cost.

Best of luck

Barry

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last time I had to straighten a very stubborn chassis leg on a BMW, hammering didn't work, a very long lever didn't do it, but putting a lifting sling round it, attaching the other end to a range rover parked at 90 degrees and then smacking the Rangie in reverse jolted it out very quickly!

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I've used the "rope trick" in the past for straightening things.

Get a length of rope and form it into a loop across the longer diagonal of the not-square chassis. Make sure all the knots are tight then get a length of pipe and put it through the middle of the loop. Then start rotating - to wind the rope up in the same fashion as was used by the Romans in some of their siege-catapults. As you wind it up, the ends of the rope are pulled inwards with spectacular force; and each turn of the 'handle' pulls inwards with a well-controllable 'heave'.

Just don't let go of the handle: the tension in the rope (and the chassis-being-straightened) will spin the handle with immense force and if you happen to leave limbs, jawbones or skulls in the path then the results will be 'medically impressive' as a friend would put it.

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