Snagger Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 When the engine is not under load, it can rev freely, so takes little fuel to achieve high rpm. This means the EGT is low, too low to provide energy to spin the turbo up significantly and thus too low to provide any measurable boost. Boost diaphragms can split, but that is not common, and the mechanism can seize. The spring in the diaphragm chamber is quite stiff, so the force required to open t by hand is high. As long as you can do so, and it returns by itself to the closed position, then the system is almost certainly serviceable. The main concern is over whether the boost pressure setting has been tampered with, which is done by alteringt he length of the rod that joind the diaphragm pot tot he gate lever. That's why I mentioned looking for the yellow anti-tamper paint marks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 22, 2016 Share Posted June 22, 2016 When the engine is not under load, it can rev freely, so takes little fuel to achieve high rpm. This means the EGT is low, too low to provide energy to spin the turbo up significantly and thus too low to provide any measurable boost. Boost diaphragms can split, but that is not common, and the mechanism can seize. The spring in the diaphragm chamber is quite stiff, so the force required to open t by hand is high. As long as you can do so, and it returns by itself to the closed position, then the system is almost certainly serviceable. The main concern is over whether the boost pressure setting has been tampered with, which is done by altering the length of the rod that joins the diaphragm pot to the gate lever. That's why I mentioned looking for the yellow anti-tamper paint marks. Hearing the turbo when cold idling may just be a harmonics issue - the cold oil in the floating bearings and the minimal exhaust flow and EGT will be turning the turbo at the lowest speed it ever achieves with the engine running, and it might just happen to be an rpm that has a harmonic noise frequency. If there is no excess bearing play and no visible damage to the blades, I wouldn't worry about it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 So far, so good. I took the 109 for a good hour yesterday evening, and all worked well. The power has increased, the engine feels smoother, and the delivery is nice and progressive. It feels sprightly, yet still series. There was very little smoke, and the throttle felt responsive. The new engine mounts certainly helped - if your di or tdi is shaking on tick-over, then get the glemcoyne mounts - worth doing. I don't think I have the full power of the engine, which isn't a problem, all I wanted is slightly more power, without sacrificing reliability. I wonder how much of the improvement is down to the Turner performance head, and how much is down to the turbo, no real way of knowing, I guess, bar removing the turbo again. The engine is running a bit hotter, just above the "N", and I can hear the turbo all the time, so that is a consideration. I'm planning on fitting an electric fan, and also I need to remove the chavtastic air filter. Sorting both will remove the noise and keep the temperatures down. I also want to play with the route of the intercooler pipes, and hopefully put the rad overflow tank back in the right place. I might give the oil cooler and intercooler a dusk of black paint to tone down the look through the grille. I'm off tonight on a 500 mile round trip, so that will test things out, hopefully by this time Sunday I'll be back all in one piece. Thanks all, G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
muddy Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 The turbo noise could be down to the filter. It is normal to see the wastegate actuator more abit when free revved vigorously If it doesn't smell hot it probably isn't. Will. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 That's what I figured - it doesn't smell like a cooking engine. it's inthe "N" zone so I'm happy enough. I'll still fit a fan though, I'll visit a breakers and see what I can get to fit. I might find a decent air box as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 Glad to hear it's all working well! They do go nicely with a Tdi if you've been used to a 2.25 or a 2.5 nad of one type or another. At least the noise of this engine is nothing new to you, except the turbo sound. The modern engines are designed to run a little warmer than Series' engines. That said, your intercooler and oil cooler may be a bit restrictive fore the rad. You have plenty of space above the steering relay for the oil cooler if this turns out to be the case, but I found the temperature needle would sit with its left edge against the top left corner of the N letter, so if yours is roughly similar, then I reckon you're ok. The fan is important, though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 24, 2016 Author Share Posted June 24, 2016 Oh, yes, the fan is next on the list. I suspect that the i/c isn't helping, but once the fan is on it should be fine. I'm looking forward to the scrapheap search for one. Whicht manufacturers over specify their fans? Would Volvo be a good choice, given they are used to towing so much? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bowie69 Posted June 24, 2016 Share Posted June 24, 2016 Ford Mondeo are a popular choice... just take a tape measure with you, get one with an oversize cowling and it will make all the difference to mounting it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 I don't think car manufacturer is important - they probably come from only one or two fan manufacturers. The important thing is to get the biggest that will fit the radiator, and having the sides of the fan exceed the sides and bottom of the rad is no problem - you can make baffle sheets to fill the gaps, but the bigger diameter would include more of the corners of the rad, so it really is a case of biggest is best. Alternatively, for a smaller fan, you can make a cowl that runs as a square from the edge of the rad, a flat sheet at the back with a circular hole for the fan which ensures that the fan sucks air through the corners of the rad, not just the circle prescribed by the fan rotor. Ideally, the back panel would be bevelled, but as long as there is an air gap between it and the rad surface, it'll work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 I've never fitted a fan....... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daan Posted June 25, 2016 Share Posted June 25, 2016 Neat job. does the viscous fan fit? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 26, 2016 Author Share Posted June 26, 2016 I'm going to have to do something about it, I suppose. The trip went well, about 12 hours of driving with a large flat bed trailer, about 500 miles through three nations (England, Wales and Ireland). Things I noticed: The exhaust was hitting the seat box support bracket on the chassis rail - fixed enroute while waiting for the ferry at Rosslare. The needle hit and went into the red on a long climb - 10 minutes in third at full rev. I think I'll investigate lower temperature thermostats as well as a fan. It's quiet, and I can hear the clutch release bearing, which is very annoying. The oil filler cap leaks!! There is a weep of oil from the oil feed banjo on top of the oil pump. The turbo sings along, but on wide open throttle it gulps air. It's very good, just enough extra power when needed, though I think it might be better with a tweak to the fuel pump. It's clean, very little, if any smoke, and it's economical, my sat nav miles to petrol station litres calculations worked out about 30 mpg. Or a bit more. All in all I'm very pleased: there's no question it's still a series, with all the quirks they have, but it's more economical and has more towing power. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 26, 2016 Share Posted June 26, 2016 Have you fitted the Series sender unit to match the Series gauge? That said, I haven't, and my gauge isn't far off accurate. It never climbs above about 95C, which sits just about middle of the 'N'. Make sure the stat isn't stuck shut. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 26, 2016 Author Share Posted June 26, 2016 It's a new genuine sender. I need to put a thermometer on the to of the rad some day. For now I'll leave it: It's proven to be happy enough. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 26, 2016 Author Share Posted June 26, 2016 Neat job. does the viscous fan fit? I don't think it does - if I recall, and it was a few years ago when the engine went in, it was too close. The nose on the tdi pump had to be shortened to get it to stay away from the rad. Electric is the way to go. I might use the existing shroud, trimmed, and add a fan to it, I've seen this of a friends transit conversion, and it looked very neat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 It won't with a Series rad, fan chops through the bottom outlet Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 27, 2016 Share Posted June 27, 2016 Worse than that - with the rad in the standard Series position, there isn't enough space between the water pump and rad face for the fan. Even if you mount the rad over the cross member, the fan will hit the cross member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Are you sure? I never fitted mine, but I thought there was more room between crossmember and the pump nose than that in the standard engine position Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Monster Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 The guys selling the intercooler stuff were very good - they didn't have two of the clamps I need, so have sent two jubilee clips instead, and will send the proper when in. And they phoned up to tell me, and see if it was okay! And sent the lot so it arrived 36 hours after the order. Very good. Unlike some others I could mention. G. Hi, Nice install. Whereabouts did you get the intercooler? Depending on price maybe worth adding to our tdi LR. Much better than having both outlets at one end than one at each end which is most that I have seen. Was the Di nice to drive? Was thinking of putting a 2.5 NAD in our Series (another LR!) but may look into fitting a Di as it would make it easier for spares with similar spec engines and flog the NAD! Cheers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 28, 2016 Share Posted June 28, 2016 Just put the full TDi in Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted June 28, 2016 Author Share Posted June 28, 2016 Comparing the two, the tdi is better, but i was happy enough with the di, other than when towing. I also worry about the longevity of the gearbox with the tdi. It's for that reason I've not explored the potential that there is left in the engine. Regardless of what you do, ensure you get the Glencoyne engine mounts - they do make a significant difference to the vibration that comes through. Oh, and the intercooler is one sold for the seat ibiza performance car - ebay seller parts4less2016, though I note they don't have any in stock now. It was a bit crude, heavier than I expected, but I think that this was an advantage in a series. My task list for the next month is (in no particular order): 1) cooler thermostat 2) electric fan 3) reroute intercooler hoses to refit overflow bottle in stock location 4) tackle oil leaks 5) fit a proper air filter and snorkel, plus timing chest breathers 6) fit gauges for boost and oil temperature That should complete the engine work until I have to do the timing belt in three years time. G. G. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 TDi's don't kill gearboxes, heavy right foot's do that. The 2286's could kill gearboxes if they weren't driven sympathetically. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Are you sure? I never fitted mine, but I thought there was more room between crossmember and the pump nose than that in the standard engine position Yep, sure. By the time you fit the viscous hub, there isn't enough room left for the fan itself. I tried, but had to settle for an electric fan, even though my rad is in front of the cross member. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejparrott Posted June 29, 2016 Share Posted June 29, 2016 Fair enough. I never even tried to fit mine! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gazzar Posted July 7, 2016 Author Share Posted July 7, 2016 Moving on. I'm going to fit a boost gauge, and I gather the best location to take a reading is the intake manifold. Whilst it is no big problem to drill and tap the manifold, I have come across this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-2-1-4-2-5-3-Hose-Joiner-BOOST-GAUGE-CONNECTOR-Stainless-not-alloy-aluminium-/161720849830?var=&hash=item25a75055a6:m:mwZQu4iAMA7QuLHeUzeJUgQ I can't see why using one of these wouldn't work? G. PS have found a 74 degree stat, that may be going in this weekend! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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