matfield Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Hi Lads, For those that have done engine conversions or remapped the newer LR engines, what kind of torque do the standard Land Rover axles hand, I have a salisbury rear and 10 spline front, but wanted to get opinions on 4 pin rover diffs etc. and also when power starts to become an issue for OEM halfshafts and CV's. Thanks Mat Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GBMUD Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 You can break a standard axle, or even a modified one with a standard 2.5d. A standard axle will cope with a huge engine transplant if you are careful, it all rather depends on how and where you drive. Oh, and it is torque, not power that breaks stuff. If you are using your car hard on or off-road, you will find your driveline lasts longer if you upgrade/uprate it. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matfield Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 Ok... It will be almost 95% on road, with some moderate towing. No trails or comp safaris! I understand the power/torque difference, just curious of people experiences with standard axles and when the felt the need to upgrade, and why. My plan is to change to 24spline disco axles, reinforce the rear, like the puma, and then go for 4 pin diffs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 You won't gain anything by replacing the sailsbury as it is one of the strongest landrover axles you can fit in standard trim. if you fit a 24spline axle and a 4pin diff to the front I'm not sure you can get much stronger without upgrading. My self and ash whitty are running sailsbury front and rear axles, i have a v8 which never sees an easy day and ash has a very heavy engine over the front that puts out so much torque the truck stays motionless and moves the world under it. I've not broken mine and I don't think he has had any trouble, So I ask why so worried? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matfield Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 Not worried necessarily, just thinking ahead. The rear is a drum braked Salisbury, so I wanted to swap for disks, and 24 spline front and back I thought would make for better parts availability, and more upgrade potential. Where would I find a Salisbury front, they're like rocking horse carp I heard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Totally understand what you mean about the drums. They were fairly hard to find but not unobtainable, when the cummins conversion became more popular they got snapped up as soon as they came up for sale. I wouldnt bother with one, they become expensive when you realise you havnt got all the bits to fit it and even more so when broken. 4pin diff won't be as strong but nige at xcess can get it pretty close Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matfield Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 Yeah... I had thought that. The drums have to go either way. What kind of Nm are you running through the Salisburys? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dangerous doug Posted August 20, 2016 Share Posted August 20, 2016 Not massive amounts on mine, I would have thought ash is pushing 600-800nm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matfield Posted August 20, 2016 Author Share Posted August 20, 2016 Fair enough. The gearbox is built to handle 800nm but I doubt it will ever get near that. I reckon pegged 4 pin diffs will be fine. What's your experience of halfshafts and cv's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
missingsid Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 IIRC but can be over rulled, 24 spline front is weaker than 10 spline in the halfshaft dept. 10 spline has 23 at the CV whereas 24 spline has 32 which Is weaker, look at KAM Diffs or Xcess4x4 at Megasquirt-v8 for an explanation and options. Only aftermarket 24 spline are stronger. Also disc conversion on a rear Salisbury is well documented in this forum and is a bolt on mod if the correct parts are used as that is how early 110 ones were made disc by the factory. I've run a V8 Series 1 on 10 spline axles for over thirty years on and off road none to gently and only broken two halfshafts so far! Marc Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ex Member Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 Disco axles are actually weaker than the 10 spline Defender axles. The 32 spline on the inside of the CV is a lot smaller than 10 spline. Put chrome-moly half shaft in the Salisbury and in the front go 4 pin with chrome moly half shafts and CV joints. Keep the original 10 spline axle as it is a better design than the later 24 spline axles. You can easily change to discs in the rear, allow they are not better than the drums. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Snagger Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 The strongest Defender axle is the drum braked Salisbury, followed by the disc braked Salisbury, then the 4-pin Rover diff type like on TDCI 110s. The Salisbury diffs are the same in both generations, but the shafts are constant thickness on the earlier units while the later have thinner shafts with raised sections for seal lands. The later type also has thinner drive flanges with shorter splines and their wheel bearings are closer together, which reduces their side load resilience. It is possible to convert a drum braked Salisbury axle to discs, using the later axle's caliper brackets, early 90/110 front hubs and 90/RRC/Disco rear calipers. If you want to fit alloys, then it needs more work as the old hubs and drive flanges foul the inside of the wheel and the plastic centre cone is longer than late axles - you need a 1/4" spacer (the centre of a scrap brake drum works well), and arguably should use longer studs to compensate for that lost 1/4" of thread (I used Wolf studs, which are 1/2" longer, which subsequently required the wheel nuts to be tapped out deeper, but I have no concerns about how secure my wheels are!). The plastic cone will still protrude through the centre of the alloy wheel unless you do something like I did and have the drive flanges cross drilled and pinned to the shafts and the ends welded up flush with the end of the flange. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
matfield Posted August 21, 2016 Author Share Posted August 21, 2016 So would I be better to keep the drums, and 10 spline front? Can a 4 pin diff centre be fitted to a 10 spline axle? I don't need/want alloys, and the drums are properly set up and work fine. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
reb78 Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 Converting my drums on the rear Salisbury on my 110 to discs is probably the last mod on my long list. It'll never get done. Correctly adjusted, they work fine so I wouldn't worry too much about them. Pretty sure Ralph has documented his drum to disc conversion on the rear Salisbury though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
landroversforever Posted August 21, 2016 Share Posted August 21, 2016 You're better off keeping your axle and upgrading the diff centre and after market shafts Matt. I don't know if there is a 10 spline 4 pin available. But to be honest if you're not off-roading it and not going mad with the power upgrades I'd just see how it goes. That said it really does depend how you drive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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