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Craig Davis EWP 115 or 150 Plus controller


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I planned to run one originally but the rated service life was amazingly few hours and proper control is not trivial, in the end I decided that a new gen parts water pump was a better investment.

What exactly are you up to / what's the problem you're trying to solve?

Edit: I did pick one up for cheap at Sodbury that I carried in the spares box for Ladoga on the grounds that it could be bodged to fit any vehicle in the team in a pinch.

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I've got one and the controller but not fitted yet as truck not finished, I can't see a down side to them myself! Not seen the rated hours but they're brushless motors which are meant to far outlive conventional motors.

Mines going in my challenge 90 running a lexus v8 with rear mounted rad.

They circulate even when engines off (if you want them too)

Quicker warm up / cool down

Adjustable running temperature

Fan controller built in

Water flow not regulated by engine rpm

Possibly higher flow than standard pump

And Maybe more, biggest down side for me was £££!

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Oh and also you get an idea of how much your truck is struggling to keep temps down as the controller has a read out for what voltage it's sending to the motor, if it's sending nearly max voltage to the pump most of the time you know you've not got much in reserve for when you're working the engine hard

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Mate of mine is running one on his 3.5 Rangy and its been a year now, no troubles. I am also going to fit one later to my Rangy, but when I swap the 3.5 for the 4.6 I just got for freeeeeee.

I am sure they are rated 30,000 hours that is plenty.

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Stil got cooling problems

The 5.2 has been tweeked and tweeked to try to sort,

Alisport Rad and x 2 SPAL fans and proper cowling made a BIG difference but not enough

Thermostatic Plate instead of Thermostat - again helped

etc etc

Prob it when its worked HARD the heat builds up fast and its tricky to get it back under control

Interestingly when the waterpump started to weep I looked in the spares box, and low and behold there was a water pump with no impeller - I thought

that this was broekn, but calls and converstaions have educmificated me that the 5.2 JEDs often are

Rear Engined

HUGE radiators

Additional pipework for increased Capacity of coolant

HUGE fans, often 4 times 2 puller 2 x pushers

Roof cowling / ram effects

and

Digital Waterpumps with controllers ! :blush: DOH ! ......

So, I haz one coming and will do a report !

The prob with normal water pump is the flow is restricted to how MUCH the waterpump can actually shift, AND that the speed is RPM dependant

The unit I have gone for can shift between 0-150 Litres water a min, and the speed is purely related to the target temp, mine being 80 -85 degrees

So, thread will be a coming .......

Now 2 years warranty and are even fitted to some Big V8 Yank motors from the factory ie GM used a EWP as standard on the Generation 4 Corvette's so

I think the ali bodied big jobbies are somewhat heavier Duty ?

Nige

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I run one on the Jag 4.2 and it does a good job - ticking over in loads of traffic through France and it stayed just over 85 the whole time while all those around me were starting and stopping to prevent boil over.

Jags can suffer from heat retention in the head if stopped while hot so the EWP keeps pumping after the ignition is switch off - allowing cool down in a sort of protected way.

In the end I replaced mechanical pump with a plate and spigot - I found retaining it impeded the water flow.

BUT...

The electronics seem to be fragile - mine went just after two years although MAWS did supply another 'at cost' in an act of compassion.

If you connect the Kenlows it auto tests them at startup - this annoys me as I can't hear the fuel pump ticking.

The remote warning light is next to useless - it's meant to tell you different things but I can't remember them all. Better to have the box of tricks visible so you can keep and eye on things.

Having said all that I would fit one on the V8 if I used it more. Aussie racers seem to use them exclusively.

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They work pretty good in the applications I have seen. Following the above comment about impeding the waterflow, I would attempt to run it in parralel with the engine driven waterpump. This way, you have double redundancy, and more flow at lower revs. I am of the opinion though that it does not solve a lack of cooling.

Edit: you could even control it with MS, so to let it kick in if things get a bit redline.

Daan

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If you ran it with the std pump too, when the Davies craig is not trying to pump much would the oem pump not either end up forcing water through the ewp or building up pressure behind it?

I know they do the ewp80 which is designed as a booster pump

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This will be interesting to hear your view and experience Nige, I think you are going in the right direction, standard water pumps in my opinion is just adequate.

I also think running a 115/150 with a standard pump will cause cavitation.

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Before going to those lengths is it not possible to fit either a smaller pulley or a better impeller. Years back I fitted a nominally standard water pump by Quinton Hazell to a Mini. It turned out the impeller was rather smaller, causing overheating. It would probably have been fine normally but the motor had been bored and stroked. I went back to the normal pump and it was fine. Impellers do vary.

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On the FordPower forum, I was strongly warned off these pumps for high performance engines, and given a string of horror stories to boot.

The route I have gone down is using a BMW 'leccy waterpump (Made by Pierburg, a well respected pump manufacturer. CWA200 or CWA400) from the E90s onwards.

There is a German fella who's built some very simple, very smart control for it, http://www.tecomotive.com/en/tinycwa-en.

The pump is about £300 new if you look around (Germany I seem to remember), and the TinyCWA is about £150. It's all kinds of clever - pulsed start up for faster warm up, fan control too, thermostatless cooling, cool-down periods after engine stop, and lots I've probably forgotten.

The CWA400 is used on some of BMWs big engines, and their high performance ones, so yours shouldn't present too much work for one.

As I said, the horror stories are second hand, but I trust the hands in question - race engine builders and amazingly knowledgeable guys, I rely on them for capri info in the same way I rely on you lot when my landy goes tits up! They convinced me enough to get a refund on the Craig David dishwasher pump, and shell out for the controller and beemer pump. They're on order now, but I won't have a chance to play with them until mid september, So I can't actually show you them, sorry!

I hope that hasn't confused matters, but your engine is a thing of beauty, and I'd hate to see it scrapped by a part I could have said something about!

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Like you HR, I have heard these stories to - they mainly seem to stem from the fragile electronics mentioned in my first post. A colleague had the electronics go which stopped the pump and cooked his engine however that was traced back to a blown fuse on another circuit. Mine just stopped working - power was getting to the board but nothing else. MAWS insisted I had wired it up wrong after a fuse box change (which I hadn't) which is why I suggest the control box remains in view. This gives you much more info on what the system is doing. I understand the new boxes have been upgraded

Having said that the basis of this system and the German one mentioned has loads of advantages. The pulsing pump at start up does greatly improve the warmup time particularly if you remove the thermostat and the variable pump speed does keep the engine at the optimum temp you set, seemingly in any conditions. IMHO any engine that either is built for performance or situations like a low speed trial or winch event should have one of these.

I have a EWP 115, Another person I know has a EWP80 on the same type of engine and is equally happy with his.......

BTW. I had to fit a small boost pump (from a Merc I think) for the heater.

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