Front damper plate hole has been opened up

[Madcowz]

Hi,

I was looking to see where the clunking sound was coming from and noticed that the bush on one of my front dampers has completely disappeared. In addition to this, the hole in the plate has been extended as you can see in this picture.

What is my best course of action? Can we weld something on to this?

Thanks,

Heds

[Retroanaconda]

Hedley,

I had the same problem. Couple of big washers will sort it out, think the ones I used were M20 or thereabouts.

I welded them on the top of the spring seat on both sides of the car, in theory the best option is to cut the plate out and weld them in flush but that required a holesaw I didn't have!

[landroversforever]

Two options, either welding the hole back up and drilling out or welding a suitably substantial washer in the correct place over the hole.

[Madcowz]

Thanks guys.

Will pop across the road and speak to my local welding neighbour.

Next questions...

I'm going to replace the springs, dampers and turret rings while I have this all off. is it worth swapping out the turrets as well? They look ok but it is 26 years old and I always feel that while things are off the car I may as well swap them out.

And if so, normal turrets or those fancy open ones I've seen on the web?

[Tanuki]

As others have said, weld a couple of washers over it. Only problem then is that the extra thickness of the mount may mean there's not enough of the threaded end of the damper rod to get a nut on, specially if you're fitting new bushes.

Turrets - the standard type are cheap and do the job; the 'skeleton' type have never really appealed to me (why pay more for something that works the same?) I'd rather spend extra on getting better shock-absorbers [bilstein yellow gas-pressurised ones are worth the money!]

[western]

fitted tubular turrets years ago & recently replaced them with tubular/galvanised which I painted too,

you can get standard galvanised versions too. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LAND-ROVER-DEFENDER-90-110-PAIR-OF-GALVANISED-SHOCK-ABSORBER-TURRET-NRC6372-/111742103743?hash=item1a045930bf

[Retroanaconda]

I would stick with standard shocks/springs/bushes.

I'm about to remove the not-very-old Koni Heavy Track shocks from my 90 and revert to standard Land Rover new take-off ones along with a set of new springs from the same source. Couples with changing every bush for new genuine ones I am hoping this will finally stop the rattling and knocking which has plagued me for the past 25,000 miles or so.

I used the galvanised turrets from Paddocks, not sure if they're 100% correct so I will go back to Land Rover ones when I do the other work above.

[western]

the axle bracket can be replaced to, these are handed left [n/s] & right [o/s] --- http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/epages/BT4822.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/BT4822/Categories/Defender_parts/Land_Rover_Defender_110/Front_AxleSuspension

[Yostumpy]

I would stick with standard shocks/springs/bushes.

I'm about to remove the not-very-old Koni Heavy Track shocks from my 90 and revert to standard Land Rover new take-off ones along with a set of new springs from the same source. Couples with changing every bush for new genuine ones I am hoping this will finally stop the rattling and knocking which has plagued me for the past 25,000 miles or so.

I used the galvanised turrets from Paddocks, not sure if they're 100% correct so I will go back to Land Rover ones when I do the other work above.

can gas dampers give a harsher ride than std Armstrong ones, with the same springs. I have wolf spec springs, and gas dampers, in the morning when I get in the back, it bounces up and down quite freely a couple of times, then goes very firm, with a harsh ride. I know the wolf springs are HD but the way it bounces first thing, makes me think the stiffness is in the shocks.

[western]

my 110 rides on OME springs & thier gas dampers, ride is just great.

[Peaklander]

I used the galvanised turrets from Paddocks,

I replaced mine earlier this year (about 7,000 miles ago) with the galvanised kit from Paddocks - the turrets, rings and plates. All seem to be OK and it's a very reasonable price IIRC ~£45

[JeffR]

I've used the YRM brackets, they are very good , almost as simple as welding on washers,

[bodumatau]

I have welded the holes up, then cut a piece of steel pipe with the same inside dia. As the outside of the shock bush, cut it about 8-10mm long and welded that on, this way your bush cannot wear through the washer and spit the washer out resulting in your bush being eaten up, this works a charm.

One ring either side keeps the shock bush in place.

Don't cut the ring too long or it will hit the shock washers over the bushes.

[landroversforever]

Sounds to me like that would restrict the bush movement enough to restrict the suspension travel?

[bodumatau]

No, all you doing is making a much more robust version of the pathetic washer that goes between the bush and the bracket

[landroversforever]

But if its sticking up by 8-10mm its going to restrict it.

[bodumatau]

Bush fits inside the piece of pipe, so it only restricts the bush movement sideways, which is what the washer tries to do.

Once the washer fails and the little lip centering it in the hole is worn off then the shock shaft starts eating away at the bracket.

With my fix the bush can never move sideways, shock shaft can never eat bracket. Only problem is when the washer over the bush (the thick one) touches the pipe which means you have made the pipe too long.

Think of it as a "bush retainer"

Also.... I am a souf efrikun, so try read my post in "colonial" English

[landroversforever]

I see what you're saying, but that's exactly what they have on the rear lower shock mounts and they restrict travel enough to snap the pin off the shock.

[bodumatau]

Haven't had the pin come off on normal shocks, had a couple of OME shocks pins and also top rings come off but credited that to the welding, haven't used OME since then.

I also don't run any extended or lifted suspension so haven't had to deal with the extreme axle movements