Gromit

Hi All, I finally got around to installing microcat. I wanted to install it in a virtual machine so that there was no risk of replacing one of the DLLs in the windows\system32 folder with the cracked one, breaking my machine. So I installed Sun's VirtualBox (http://www.virtualbox.org/), installed Windows XP in the virtual machine, and then installed Microcat. On problem is that the machines in VirtualBox synchronise their date with the host machine. As microcat needs the date to be October 2006, this is annoying. To get around this, and disable the date synchronisation, from the command prompt, run the following command: C:\Program Files\Sun\VirtualBox\vboxmanage setextradata <vmname> "VBoxInternal/Devices/VMMDev/0/Config/GetHostTimeDisabled" "1" In my case, my virtual machine is called "XP Base", so my command looked like this: C:\Program Files\Sun\VirtualBox\vboxmanage setextradata "XP Base" "VBoxInternal/Devices/VMMDev/0/Config/GetHostTimeDisabled" "1" Start the virtual machine and microcat runs perfectly on it, with no faffing around changing dates

Oil on the back door can come from anywhere in my experience. I had the fuel spill return come loose and leak diesel down the side of the block, where it was blown back and round onto the back door.

Thanks for the info Ralph. Feel a bit lost without a parts cat at the moment. Have ordered some hub locking tabs and will rob the 2 hub nuts off the old truck.

Hi All, My new '05 TD5 110 has failed its test and I've a few small things to put right. Could someone confirm some part numbers? I've yet to get RAVE working, so have been looking on lrseries etc. Front radius arms - bushes x4 - from radius arm to axle. Are they NTC6860? The rear shocks are not original, think they are monroes ( I don't have the truck beside me at the moment) I'm looking for lower bush that does below the axle bracket. Is it RNF100090L? Finally, There's some play in one of the wheel bearings. I've tightented wheel bearings on my 200tdi before, but does the TD5 have a different arrangement? I seem to remember something about there now being one staked but instead of 2 nuts/locking tab. If so, can you revert to the old type? Can anyone enlighten me before I pull the flange. Many thanks!

and they do make good fans. Well made, shift a fair amount of air. Don't know how waterproof they are though, as I never waded with mine.

Always good to ask. The advice you received makes no sense to me at all. I get the impression that you (or your friend) is talking about something other than a transfer box because they are a lot more than 42 quid - around 10 times the price for a recon - as it's a second gearbox that hangs off the main gearbox.

If you currently have a 1.44 defender transfer box, then a disco box at 1.2 will get you higher gearing in high range. Means lower engine revs at a given speed = lower noise at motor way speeds etc, but less pull up the hills. To point out the obvious, changing the transfer box won't change the shift change on the main box, or change the idle speed. I can't remember if the main box needs to be lowered to remove the transfer box, but it'd probably take me the guts of a day to do it (I'm kinda slow and like my tea & biscuits!) As to whether that's of any benefit to you, well that's up to you!

12. You've had one for years, spent thousands on it, have it written off by someone running into the back of you, get absolutely sweet *&%^ all from the insurance company and then go and spend the last of your hard earned savings (that should have gone towards a deposit on a house) on a new TD5. Thank god for this self-help group

I think you should first establish if there's oil in the box. Draining it will also allow you to examine the oil for bits of teeth, forks etc. TBH, it sounds like the clutch. If you start it in gear can you stop by depressing the clutch?

I used 10W40 mineral (anything but halfords!) for all the time I had my 200tdi (around 90k miles). Didn't see the point in spending extra on semi or full synthetic, as I changed the oil every 3-5k miles.

anyone?

Anyone familiar with the TD5 switch, does this look like it? The description is not exactly correct. I *think* the wire colours are correct, IIRC from messing with it last night. ebay item

Excellent - one for the tech archive.

I suppose it depends on where you are expeditioning to. If someone takes the truck on a Hiab, then they had the keys too - an advantage if the keys are coded to the vehicle. If you are car-jacked, they'll force you to hand over the keys where ever they are. If the vehicle is left unattended for a while, the would-be theif has time to work on removing/opening your safe. I'd think the biggest risk might be someone seeing you key in the code, then you come back to no truck. I've never heard of a key safe before - is it common?

Thanks for the link. After a hunt around, and I'm not 100% sure that the TD5 uses the same switch. (must get out from under the truck and get Rave working )

Evening all, Anyone know where I can source a diff lock switch for my new toy (a TD5). Looked on Ebay & Paddocks - no joy. Of all the things I changed on the old truck, seems a diff lock switch wasn't one of them - that I rememeber at least! So, where do ye get your parts online? Cheers!

Clunk tanks are used in model aircraft too. It's just a flexible pipe with a weight on the end, so it follows the fuel around the tank. The pipe needs to be quite flexible, without kinking, and the interior of the tank free from anything the clunk could snag on. As you can imagine, the length of pipe, and where it flexes from, is important to it working properly.

I suppose it's possible if the link to the reverse idler had fallen apart, you could have selected 2nd and reverse - locking the box. I think reverse is the only gear that could be engaged with another gear. It's an odd one. Were you on a hill at the time? If it happens again, put the transfer box in neutral. If it stalls, at least it will confirm it's the gearbox.

difflock/transmission wind up wouldn't cause the gearbox to lock up. My guess is that you lost a tooth/synchro or something, fragments ended up stuck between the main and layshaft, locking it. When you reversed, it dropped out and is now sitting elsewhere or at the bottom of the box. I'd drain the box and see what bits you find. You never know, if might be ok for a while after an oil change.

Well, at least you didn't start it with the nut in there. Could have been a lot worse.

I did mine about a year ago. First time I'd done anything like that before. Most complicated job I'd done beforehand was rebuilding a swivel. It was all pretty straightforward really. I had a hydraulic puller. The only thing I need to make was a tool to press the a bush into shaft (memory is a big vague now - was on 5th gear I think). In retrospect I should have heated it. Didn't think of that at the time Being careful, I bagged everything in ziplog bags as I pulled them apart, and ordered & labeled the bags on the floor. Then cleaned everything, replaced the bearings and synchros with ashcroft parts, and replaced the contents of the bags back in the box Think it took me around a week of a few hours a day. Take your time and think about what you are doing and anyone could do it. Fun job too

Hi Gary and Welcome. Personally, I think it's great to have representitves of parts suppliers on here. If we can have some input into the parts supplied, then that can only be a good thing. There was a thread on here recently about cheap and rover parts vs parts for other marques, which should give you the general opinion of most LR owners on OEM/genuine parts. I can't find it at the moment. Was it Si that said "if it moves, seals or is safety critical - use genuine, otherwise use OEM". I think this typifies the general consensus to parts in blue boxes. Maybe you could change that Garry? Cheers,

The *&*£ers might be back for your new one, so I'd consider taking a grinder/welder to the nuts, once you've the replacement fitted. (Then I'd take the grinder to their nuts when they return)

Military bumpers have box section between the chassis rails. The outer sections are the same as standard bumpers, but they have flag holders. The centre of the bumper has a towing pin. Sound familiar?

Looking at the pictures, the hole looks pretty small. I assume that the MOT would have no problem with you plating it. Just cut out all the rust and give yourself some clean metal to weld to.