Gromit

Have a great trip. Looking forward to hearing how your pants get on during your adventures. Send pictures

Is that the one that fits to the bottom of the fork? It's called a Slipper Pad - Clutch Lever. Doesn't help much does it?

Given that the axle end of the breather is in air, not oil, it'd have a hard time sucking oil, unless of course the truck was on its roof

Also, once unbolted, watch was the heavy caliper at the back unbalances the lot off the jack and tries to take your fingers with it. 2 hands getting the lot back on is very handy. Here's a of doing it this way

Hi Mark, I'm just up the road from you, so if you need a hand looking at a few trucks, I'd be willing to call down and help out, if it suits with work etc. I've no experience with the TD5, but I've a fair knowledge of defenders. There are 200 and 300 tdi trucks out there, you just need to hunt a bit more for them, than in the UK. My sister recently bought a 200tdi 110 and it's a great truck. Keep and eye on autotrader.ie and carzone.ie. Also, if you haven't found them already, check out The Land Rover Club of Ireland There's a guest forum there for non-members, if you want to post a Wanted for a truck. A few of them are on here too. Hold out for the truck you want and you'll get it.

I'm not too familiar with TD5s, but have a look around the tech archives, or use the search on the forum. There was a problem with the bolt holding the oil pump sprocket on, working loose, with obvious consequences. I appreciate that you don't want a eurobox - who does. One thing, I'm in Ireland, and here many insurers will not insure and 18YO on anything over 2 litres. Have you checked if the same applies to you? I agree with the other posts about you being a named driver and actually using the vehicle. If there's a claim, the insurers will do everything to find a way out of paying, and if they find the named driver is the principle driver.................. It is best to start accruing your own NCB on your own policy. It hurts initially, but it's probably for the best.

Start with this. It's aimed at 200tdi vintage, but most of it applies. Hand brake on, main box in neutral. Jack up one front wheel. With difflock out, the raised wheel should turn, with difflock in, the raised wheel should not turn, other than allowing for any play that might be in the transmission.

This is a defender. Should be similar on yours. This is the right side, viewed from the front. The lock stop is forward (to the left, in the picture) of the silver swivel ball. This side controls the amount of left lock. Wind out to decrease the lock.

NOOOOO Sorry pet hate of mine, so might not be very rational, but I've had 2 French cars and I will never touch another one with a barge pole ever again. Both gave no end of trouble and were expensive and a PITA to fix. My cheap-to-run LR-replacement while it was off the road, has been sitting with my local mechanic for about 6 months and won't run. I'm with Darth, move up to uni with your series and you'll be the coolest stoodent there B)

excellent. X-Eng Horse Mount anyone?

Likewise. I don't usually need to change from low to high on the move, but the traffic jams I sit in twice a week give me the opportunity to practice (any annoy everyone behind me ).

Thanks a lot for the input guys. I'll go ahead and paint the doors and see how it looks. I'm just looking at getting rid of the rainbow look for now until i paint the whole truck a different colour, at some point in the future, when I have access to proper facilities and the time to sort the rest of the body work. If it is ridiculously mis-matched, I'll see about Farecla-ing it. Ralph, thanks a lot for the offer

thanks a lot Ralph. BM, that's what I was afraid of, as it's quite faded. I decided to just paint the doors for the moment, rather than painting the whole truck. How much is t-cutting it going to restore the colour? I don't know that I'm ar^$d t-cutting an entire 110 Hmmm

I'm trying to find out the paint code for my truck. Ralph, Is my truck the same colour as yours? from these paint codes, there are 3 non-metallic blue for 1991, JUH Arles, Windjammer, Pacific Blue 90-97 LRC.424 JUH Arles, Windjammer, Pacific Blue 90-97 LRC.424(VI) 899 Midnight Blue 2ct 91-91 LRC.899 I don't think it's Midnight Blue, but there are 2 codes for Arles, Windjammer, Pacific Blue Which code should I use? Cheers

happy to help

Yep, that pipe is going to the waste gate actuator. The other part of the pipe will be going to the top of the fuel injections pump to supply more fuel as the boost pressure increases. They all have the same pressure, so tapping in anywhere on either pipe will give the same reading.

They are, but worth it IMHO. B)

What kind of steering guard do you have? Yes, the strop/line should not bind on the steering guard when attached. You might have to cut the guard for it to clear. Best method is to use a 1.5m strop attached to both jate rings and looped through your recovery strap. That way, the load is spread between both chassis rails.

My 1991 VIN is HA902XXX with straight pipes.

Yep, EP 90 goes in your swivels, axles and transfer box. More commonly found as EP80/90 or Gear Oil. Available from your local motor factor or Halfords.

How odd B)

Water pump bearings get nice and squeaky. Try squirting some WD40 into the back of the pulley and see if it stops.

If the noise happens when stationary, it won't be your speedo, as it doesn't turn while stationary!

Have read of reports of the throttle pot failing, might be worth looking at for worn or dead track sections on it.

Me too. Don't recall a 3rd spring anywhere round the assembly (BTW, looks like a nice truck Dappe, got any more pictures? )