Anderzander

Thank you !

Apologies for being a dope - but what's the string and tape method then ?

Sorry to digress - but Scott - your 90 is glorious !

Not particularly technical - but isn't it funny how you have funny days .... Crappy news at work, so I finished early to do some work on the Landu and cheer myself up : Picked up some blasting I'd had done with revealed much more damage than I'd expected. Somehow well and truly cocked up fitting a nursert in my crossmember and managed to spill brake fluid on my lips !? Weird

I have a TDS and was wondering what to do with it - it's an old rope though so somewhat misshapen, which I think would make it a nightmare to try and splice .... Given that I haven't done it before. My plan was to just tuck the end In the rope hole and use one of these nylon things to retain it.

He's effectively making a 'lasso' that is pulled tight round the drum ...... .....Does that not make it hard to spool it on ? As it'll be rotating around the drum ?

I think this is almost endemic to the breaker industry ? A quick scan of 2nd hand parts on eBay reveals loads of breakers wanting big money for parts.

I presume it to stop a swing away wheel carrier being unbolted with the wheel locked on it ?

Good info on the first half of this video here ... Mine are done now - I did a double crimp on each one as they suggest in the video.

That disclaimer is ridiculous - it's even worse than the Land Rover steering wheels they sell on eBay, which say 'not for off road use'.

I saw it on YouTube - 11mins in on this video ...

without really knowing what the swap would entail I couldn't say ? Certainly new heads for Td5's run up big bills - those AMC heads from turner are dear - plus everything else you'd want to renew just raises my question what would an alternative involve.

If (God forbid) my Td5 motor perished - what would be involved in fitting an OM606 beyond just physically getting it in ? Apologies in advance for my ignorance on the subject. We saw that chap build one in a series recently and he'd used the LR gearbox - so if that was the route taken there would be no tunnel mods, just mounts and pipes... ? Going for the mechanical pump I guess we'd swap out the td5 accelerator for a cable one ? I guess we'd end up with loads of superfluous stuff - like clutch switches and that the 10AS wouldn't have a function or work without the ECU ? Would we therefore need an aftermarket kit to have the central locking work ? Im sure there's a raft of things .....

Me too ....

Is it a non latching switch that you're using then ? Presuming it is, I guess you have two options: change the switch or change to a latching relay. I would suggest replacing the switch for a latching, live-switching switch, with a tell-tale light. A Defender Puma heated seat switch (YUF500150LNF) would be ideal for this, as it's all of the above, and it only costs about a fiver new. It fits in a td5 centre console and you should be able to swap the switch cap over to keep your logo/legend if you wanted to.

Thank you ! Really hard to search for some things when you don't know their name !

What are those little nylon straps called - that have an eye on each end and are used to hold the first spools of winch rope onto the drum ?

I just have a single spur to feed the garage as a whole - it's 20 amp RCD on the house consumer unit (an unused feed for a power shower) - and that feeds to another small RCD unit in the garage with a lighting circuit (2 strip lights) and a socket circuit (2 double sockets).

This is helpful for me too. Very occasionally mine stalls straight after starting - trying again straight away will always fire it up though. I'd thought it was happening when it was cold as leaving it priming results in it not happening - but I see that is likely the fuel rather than the glow plugs. I found the bulletin for the bleed filter : http://gershon.ucoz.com/landrover/TD5/TOPIx-LD310-001-Defender_Td5_Poor_Starting_Noisy_F.pdf

I must admit to being a fibreglass virgin - and a bit irrationally unconfident of using it .... But that said, I think the damage may be too small and awkward for laying something up on it ? It's along an edge where two sides / surfaces join - and if it was on a skirting board you'd use a thick bead of caulk or polyfilla .... Thus my thought of something like a gluegun ?

Thank you

I have a damaged airbox and wondered if there is something that I could use to repair it ? It's sort of a broad crack - like a split with a piece missing. So if there is something suitable it could be filled and sanded back. Would a glue gun work ? Or is there something else ? I'm just mindful it needs to bond well to seal properly and stay that way to be waterproof.

I've some of these kind of chunky crimps ..... On say a 35mm terminal would you need to do a sequence of crimps ? I watched a YouTube video that said they have a narrow crimp area - so you should start close the terminal and work your way back to the cable end. Is that how everyone does it ? I know the hydraulic ones seem to have a broader crimp ... ?

Thank you both. The wiring from my Consuner Unit is just 2.5mm2 to a waterproof junction box on the outside of the house. From there it's more 2.5 to the garage mini consumer box and again onto the garage sockets - and from there it's whatever extension I have. I do have some chunky armoured cable I was going to replace the outside run with - though I didn't know what merit it would have without having 4 mm2 inside ... Replacing the wiring inside the house is not something I'm ready for - it's bad timing for opening the walls and pulling floors up. But I guess providing the RCD ratings are right for the smallest cables current carrying capacity - then upping the cable sizes on the other lengths would still go towards reducing voltage drop ? As I'd be reducing resistance over that part of the circuit at least. Apologies for my ignorance !

A basic question but my garage is at the end of the garden and opens into a yard beyond that ... So on my last 90, when I welded on my cross member, it was effectively at the end of a 100' extension - and the decrease in power was noticeable. Is there anyway round that ? My welder is a basic Clarke 100 mig and it was at the limits of power on that much lead. It's not very practicable to up the cable size to the garage - but would simply getting a more powerful welder work ? Or would I still be limited by the length and size of cable ?