Anderzander

I can't explaon without sounding a weirdo But basically it didn't feel right at the time ... Part of me thinks I should have - but ... C'est la vie !

Mine was always towards the end of tracks - so when I changed pads I rotated the arm and cured the rattle and travel issue all at once. i should buy another at some point.

God these are fantastic - 29mpg ! From the F250 - 500 HP and its sounds wonderful ... <contented sigh>

A quick Google points at a similarly named teenage expert on another forum ?

Thanks both - but these look like standard round rivnuts - rather than the hex shaped ones to fit the crossmember.

So there is a part number for it !!! Thank you

Yes this will be like that old Eric Morecambe advert where the car kept calling past the garage and not needing fuel or oil ...

I think I've got some by way of a sample ... They are full hex though rather than half hex, so it remains to see if I can fit it with the bolt method - as it'll be to much for my humble nutsert tool.

They're a no go then as I'm effectively fitting them blind from the front. It's this kind of thing I'm after.... http://www.amazon.com/Half-Body-Large-Flange-Rivet/dp/B008VGVO7S Half wonder if they haven't got a part number ...

Thanks guys - how do they install ? I can't quie make it out .... Does that collar fold up on the outside with the thread inside ? I'm searching now for somewhere that sells them in small quantities..... Also working out if I could get a nut inside and hold it to tighten a bolt there.

I've done some searching - but can't find anywhere to buy just a couple of the hex shaped M10 rivnuts to fit into the back of a Td5 Defender crossmember. Can anyone help ?

Are you going to fit one Ross ?

If it wasn't too onerous it would be good to make the thread stand alone - even if that's a copy and paste job. I'm partly thinking of things that can get lost or spread over a larger thread - and also how the tech archive currently suffers from posts with no photos due to Photobucket move arounds. For example there is a winch rebuild in there that is now all but totally useless.

That's very helpful too - thank you. The lock can't be stripped witrout drilling rivets out - but the access and drainage is quite good. So I'll spray it clean with something like brake cleaner and then dry lube it as per your suggestion

Another option would be for users to be able to post a thread in there - writing their tip / mod up - which the admins then close off for further replys.

Any feedback on how those Britpart retrim kits have stood the test of time ?

That's how I imagined it working.

I rather like the idea of this as a separate section too - I can imagine it being attractive to new members. Lower level modifications, as opposed to full on ground up buggy builds, may prove attractive to owners of newer vehicles too .... ?

Thanks everyone Does it need more support though ? As on mine there are the 4 factory fit spacers so it clears the seatbox cover / mat ... So it's only supported in the corners as it is. I'd rather go with spacers so i can experiment with different heights.

I fancy sitting a little higher up but wondered if there is any advantage of having say the mud rails over just some turned spacers ? I'm not sure if I've got it right - but it seems the only advantage of the mud rails is that it allows the seat to be moved back more ...? Which I'm not really bothered with - just want a little more height.

It worked a treat ! Input the gun on low and built the heat over the stretched area - pushing the dint in and letting it pop up as I did so - at a certain temperature it just stayed in, so I let it cool from there and it's stayed there. There is a slight dint where the plastic must have stretched - but the crease has gone and its a million times better. Brilliant . Thank you everyone.

It's seems it is the seized grease scenario - after dousing it with a degreasant its started working Great news - and thank you !

SOA My understanding was that the tensile strengths are not the issue - it's in shear that stainless is weaker. I think someone already mentioned that the load on a lot of suspension bolts is in shear - as it is with your radius arm example. Certainly tensile is not the only way to measure bolt strength or quality. Seems difficult to find quoted shear strengths for a given standard though.

I'm concerned about stamps having sharp edges ....

If I've remembered correctly it's based on someone I knew who had a lifted 110 on 35's ...... Though his lift was causing trouble anyhow.