Anderzander

Well - back home now. After a days driving the lanes and round the lakes and a trip there and back on the motorway - I can say its fine without the ARB on the back. The front springs are quite soft, 160lbs iirc? and I like the suppleness of them. In fact I fiitted some HD front springs and took them after 30 miles - I hated them. The back was always a little hard and the roll was mainly on the front end - now the front and back end are more balanced - the roll seems even along the length of the truck - and its fine.

Gwyn Lewis makes some weld on ones that look very good - rather than just taking the impact they look like they will deflect things. Here's my thread about it some time ago.

Its off!! Everything was seized - it took 40 minutes to get off, now time for a quick breakfast and I'll only be late - instead of very late!! thank you for all the help. I'll see how it drives without it and report back at the end of the day. Thank you everyone.

Well - what a palaver! Just been out there with my head torch on as I've my appointment with friend on the lanes tomorrow that I'd like to keep. It was how close the link was to the brake pipe that made me decide it needed doing quickly. Jacking it up didn't seem to make any positive difference - so I decided to undo it at the chassis - turn the right side over and re bolt it up... that was the plan anyway. 3 of the bolts sheered and the last one was already rounded when I got to it. Fortunately the sheered bolt was on the inside which meant I could get a crow bar under it and lever it open to release the bar. I was in the dark by that time - so in the morning I'll go out and take it off early before I go out. Hopefully it'll be easy to take off. I presume releasing the ARB from the link bushes is easier that trying to get the ball joints off from the chassis brackets? I need the quickest simplest way to do in the morning. The bolts that sheered on the chassis seem to bolt into threaded holes - so I'm presuming I'll have to drill them out and try and get a nut onto the other side? Thanks for the helps guys.

Do a search mikey - there is LOTS of info in previous posts and lots of different answers.

My anti roll bar has flipped round at one end after a lot of wheel travel at the weekend and I'm wondering how to safely flip it back? I thought I'd just be able to use my hi-lift to get it to a point where the link was horizontal and then get a bar in to turn it over. But the jack won't go high enough and the link just seems to get tighter as it goes up? certainly isn't rotating out anyway. I could get under and undo the nut and then knock the bolt out on the twisted end - but I'm thinking that its under a fair amount of tension at that end and am worried about maybe being struck by it as I get the bolt out? Last question - I've a date on the lanes again tomorrow so I presume if I can't get it sorted before then will it be ok to use? given that I used it after it folded the last time? (and only spotted it tonight). Any help gratefully received!

If you can stretch to it I'd add Gwyn's +2" turrets to that list. Are there coloured markers on your spring?

Nice pic - should be quite easy to turn that into a sticker or insert.

To quote FridgeFreezer .....

Driving my Defender I think headphones are the only way I'll hear any music above 50mph ... I'm not even sure I would then actually.

Here are the fruits of my video labour ...

Quick trip out on the local lanes today - had a fantastic day, with brilliant weather, and got to see just how much travel my new suspension set up has Here's some pics and a link to a youtube vid to follow (when its uploaded ....)

Not meaning to be contentious - but given that Terrafirma ripped off Gwyn, then if you can, I'd consider something else. Draw back with this is that the only other shock with firm damping are the EMU ones, which are brilliant but more money.

Boscastle is very nice. My wife and I stayed there before the floods - a very beautiful area. One thing I didn't realise before I got there is how small Cornwall is - nowhere you fancy going is very far away at all.

It was contributing. I replaced the jets with a new one and its made a difference. Don't get me wrong they won't knock a cyclist off his bike - but they are a lot better. So even though I wasn't losing water through the crack in my old jets I must have been losing air pressure.

If I may I'd like to ask about this too.... What year did they fit the new regulator from? And are there any symptoms besides high speed juddering and/or leaking diesel? I want to get mine re-mapped in the near future and so want to sort any other issues before hand.

A syringe is good to fill it with oil as there isn't much room through the access panel. If you are fitting a PTO winch have a search on here about rotating the drive to give more ground clearance. (Unless of course you mean a Hydraulic PTO winch...)

The PTO is a doddle to fit - what are you planning to drive from it? Its the rest of whatever set up your are intending to use that will probably be more involved.

If you do a search for old posts on it you'll find quite a lot of people saying just what you have, that it peels off in sheets, and warning folk not to use it...

great guy - great service. If you're reading this Gwyn - thanks!

I tried pickles - but they won't insure anything valued at more than 5 grand that's parked on the road overnight.

paddocks?

I know of two people who can weld like that - its mind blowing!

I've asked about a fault in mine at the end of this thread So it looks like mine has an earth somewhere it shouldn't.

Mine has shoe adjustment - its a 17mm hex head on the front facing side of the drum. The adjuster on the cable are a 21mm and 16mm nut ? wierd sizes. I've done mine but the adjustment feels like it should go further to make it impossible to get a 4th click - but the adjustment nuts are taking some turning. I've also developed a handbrake light fault after my last off road trip - possibly a break in the wire as the switch on the lever works - but the light flashes on and off on bumps - regardless of the position of the lever. Anyone know if the circuit breaks or is made to light up the dash?