Anderzander

I have some things I’d like done too 😊

I think your right: http://www.engineeringinspiration.co.uk/drumbrakes.html If the leading edge of the leading shoe were to touch the drum first the brake would grab. Perhaps on those British bikes the braking was so woeful that setting the brakes up to grab was the only way to make them work ?

Isn’t that what the springs are for though Soren? And why on the 10” drums on the front shoe is sprung the way it is?

Have a look here: http://theengineersjunction.blogspot.com/2011/02/drum-brakes.html?m=1 When the brake is applied with the vehicle stationary, hydraulic pressure pushes each shoe outwards and an equal force is applied by each shoe to the drum. But this applied force does not remain equal when the vehicle is moving (Fig. 28.14A). The drag of the moving drum on the friction linings causes one shoe to be applied hard and the other to be pushed towards the 'off position. The shoe that does more work is called the leading shoe, and the other shoe is called the trailing shoe. Its not equal - that’s why they say 75% of the braking force is from the front shoe. Here’s some more ok the servo affect and the pad location - there is lots of stuff on the net about this. Though here it seems to be saying two contradictory things? Position of shoe tip. The movement of leading edge of the friction lining towards the hydraulic expander increases the self-serve action. which was my understanding ? and the friction lining of the trailing shoe is normally placed nearer to the expander than in the case of the leading shoe. which is how Land Rover have it Factors affecting self-servo torque. These include : (a) Position of shoe tip. The movement of leading edge of the friction lining towards the hydraulic expander increases the self-serve action. (b) Coefficient of friction (u) of the lining. An increase in the value of u also increases self-servo action. (c) Position of the shoe anchor. Movement of the anchor towards the centre of the drum increases the self-servo action. Therefore the L&T shoe brake that has a large self-servo characteristic develops high braking power that means it has a large drum drag for a given application of force. This is made possible due to the use of energy from drum rotation to minimize the effort applied by the shoe expander. Conversely, the negative servo action on the trailing shoe must be minimized for obtaining powerful braking action. In order to achieve this, the friction lining of the trailing shoe is normally placed nearer to the expander than in the case of the leading shoe. When this feature is incorporated, proper attention must be given during reassembling the brake, otherwise if the shoes are reversed, a fierce braking action with possible grab (lockup) results during application. My experience from British bikes is that the brakes can go from woeful to acceptable when you cut the material in the way I was taught. So I expect I am missing something - but the applied force isn’t even and the pad position is a factor, and the front shoe plays a primary role that can be offset by poor timing of pad contact.

Thanks for the reply - but my question is why is it like that ? When it makes it more likely for the trailing shoe to touch first and kill the self servo effect? Or is that just done with the cams....

Something’s confusing me, in how some single leading shoe drums are set up, which I can’t get my head around... On British motorcycles, with single cam/cylinder drum brakes - a common mod was to shorten the friction material on the trailing shoe at the cylinder end. We did it to make sure we had the servo affect: where if the leading edge of the leading shoe touches the drum first, then the rotation drags the shoe away from the cylinder - reducing the effort to brake. i.e. the servo affect. Whereas if the trailing shoe touches first, then the rotation of the drum drives the shoe against the expanding cylinder - and is the exact opposite effect. So we used to cut a section of material off that back shoe and it would improve the brakes wherever they had not been contacting with the leading edge of the lead shoe. However the Standard set up on say a 109 rear is the opposite.... Where the description is: “The leading shoe, which goes towards the front of the car, has the lining fitted so that the distance from the wheel cylinder to the shoe lining is greater than for the trailing shoe.” So, I’m really confused? Anyone shed any light on this please ?

I’ve never seen a tyre place that doesn’t use a windy gun ... 🙁

Nakatanenga do an ANR CLASSIC steel rim the same - but they are mega expensive too.

Thread revival ! Does anyone have one spare ? (Item 12) - I had one, gave it away .... and now could use it.

That’s the one !! I’m sure I had some - but I can only find the one that I’m using.

The wheels look better too. Personally I would have tried white to contrast a little - but it’s much better than black wheels and black tyres.

Mats are really nice - that lip around the edge looks great to stop water getting under them too. 👍🏻 Everytime I see photos of inside I find myself looking around my garage for a 2” grommet to send you ....

It would be a good time to do the floor if you’ve the weather we have 😊

That’s an interesting set up - do you have spreader plates under the floor ? Looking back through the photos of the other side of the bulkhead, it looks to be just bolts ?

There is a good Rust product called hydrate80 - you could perhaps use a cavity wax gun and get some of that in there.

I’d want it to open outside and flush the the wall with by the window ... working with the door open is great in good weather - it’s be convenient to go in and out of the house, plus I’d be standing things in that corner by the big door and using every inch of floor space.

He hasn’t slated it either ...

Sounds like nonsense to me ... ?

I don’t know this - but maybe it’s because the early ones had the removable distance pieces - so they will be square all the way to where they meet the back plate on the stub axle. Whereas I think the later ones the distance piece was integral to the stub shaft, and wasn’t able to have it replaced independently, perhaps on those the back edge isn’t square and taper out to the plate?? If it wasn’t square there you wouldn’t want the seal sat right back against the plate, as that would stop it sealing. Here’s the later one on eBay - and it has a radius where the bearing land transitions into the back plate. Here is a Series 1 with removable press fit distance piece / bearing land (which is knackered and I will replace) - but you can see it’s square to the back plate with no radius. I may have just made some of that up - it’s just what it looks like 😊

Well if we are in that mode - I’m not keen on Mark Evans .... I liked his ‘is born’ programmes, but not his presenting. Something flat and contrived in his delivery - like in the Aluminium E-Type documentary and here ... sort of wooden...

Different in the Series 1 manual, there they say to do it flush.

I’ve seen 4 of them done now - and all were done like yours. 2 S3’s, a 2a, and a lightweight.

Trailer for the next episode : suspension https://ineosgrenadier.com/suspension-trailer?utm_source=Salesforce&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=april_newsletter&utm_source=&utm_medium=&utm_campaign=

That’s super helpful Mike !

Looks wonderful !