Yostumpy

you have hit the nail on the head with your own words! 65-70mph!!!!!!!!! and 33" tyres!!!!!!!!!!!!! for good milage you need to keep under 60mph closer to 56mph, and those tyres, are making the vehicle work a little harder, BUT also they could throw out the speedo calibration. Could be worth checking with gps or m/way markers that a mile isn't 9/10 ths of. and yes i HAVE HAD 35.3mpg out of wallace, but no roof rack and no rooftent and it is a 300 tdi 110.

Ok ! every one likes the thought of a stainless exhaust, but £303!! Let's look at this objectively ££££££. A straight thro (non cat ) downpipe, in MS should last for yEARS, as there is no restriction, no box, and no reason for it to rust. mines been on 3 years, and no rust. It replaced a 'cat' version , and replace for no other reason than I only paid £17 for it and had read that the cat one was restrictive.. the centre box was replaced when I bought the truck, in April '06, and still going strong, the rear pipe and box was also replaced when bought, and I'm now on my third in 7 years (cheapys) @ £25 a pop. £303 is a big chunk of cash. The only bit that really get's it is the rear pipe to rear box joint, where it passes over the axle and gets covered in stuff. Now a stainless rear bit might be worth it if it was cheap. but otherwise, a lot of dosh.

just been conversing with another chap on (that eco website) another forum, he has a 6.5 gm deisel, set up to run as n/a, then later he added a turbo, without upping the fuelling with a boost pipe. he got a 2 mpg gain on daily runs, and about a 3 mpg gain, ona run. But hes is only getting about 18mpg (us) to start with, so not much help there. Cant wait to fill up, except my journeys this week, and prob next, are limited to about 2 miles each way and back, and back, and back, etc. so not a good test.

Yes and no. it is a simple 3 min jobbie, pull off the pipe, plug it with a srew, push another bit of pipe on, plug that with a screw as well and Bob's prob not your uncle. It's strange really, hard to describe. Its better than a n/a by a long chalk, (especially as I've got a std 1.410 T/Box and the n/a had the 1.610) It does go very well considering, and I'm sure the turbo is helping even without the boost fuelling as 2.5 n/a with a 1.41o box wouldn't accelerate to 75+ with more to go. I've been using it today, and already I'm forgetting that its got less power. so when I flick my switch its going to be like Nitros!!!!!!! I'm only in Gravesend, if you want to pop over for a spin some time then send me a pm. But bear in mind your series will be quicker and more economical in this mode. Gosh i hope there is SOME improved mpg after all this, other you can all call me 'egg face' or Mungo! yes I like Mungo.

I had the pump 'optimised' prob 5 years ago by van Aaken in Surrey. it did (and still does) GO like a scalded cat. However i came upon a website prob 2 years ago by accident. I google 'most efficient small van' as I was a bit miffed by my 26mpg avg despite a gentle right foot. The term hypermiling came up. Not something i'd ever come across ( And I'm 50+) so I read with interest. within a week i'd managed to drive from N.kent to Brighton and back on 2 gallons of petrol, 64.5MPG (std 2000MY yaris) . I've tried a few things now in the truck, and My best is 35.4mpg coming back from Dorset. My goal is to hit 40mpg. I'm NOT slow, I don't hold anyone up. (well maybe sometimes) and my avg after 22 fill ups is 29.2mpg! The pump was NOT set too rich, and it didn't emitt plumes of smoke, but all tdi's smoke on acceleration, Mine now doesn't. AT ALL!!! that must mean its not using as much fuel. but whether its more efficient , only time will tell. Old skool power box thing is spot on, power only when needed, BUT ONLY if I get net MPG gains, otherwise there is no point.

when I say more fun to drive, what I mean is... I had the pump tweaked a while ago, and it does go very well, and when the turbo spools up it defo picks up . but in the restricted mode it was a bit like how I imagine a series motor would be with a non turbo 200tdi or maybe a perkins prima, ie adequate but not punchy, in that it is so easy to pootle around and be lazy with the gearbox, with all that power, but in an old series 2 1.4 you had limited power. i didn't mean it was more exiting ('white knuckle') to drive but sort of going back 20 years fun. Withe regard to not using as much throttle instead, not sure I agree, as I can still rev to full revs now,but without any extra fueling, ie foot on the floor whilst accelerating with no smoke then back off when at speed. If it works mpg wise, I will fit a simple power 'tap'. I wouldn't want to tow with it like this but for most of the time it seems fine. I didn't say it revs 'more' freely, i said 'it seems happy to rev freely', which I thought it might not with restricted fuelling. I've not 're-invented the wheel' I'm just experimenting with something nobody seems to have to done before and nobody seems interested with.. Bet if I was to get 45 mpg peeps would listen then!

Ok ! bit of an update. As today was nice, it did a bit of tinkering and washed the truck, then i noticed the leak off pipes were not looking too good, so replaced them with something that I had lying around, then I thought that looks the same size pipe as the boost pipe. So I nipped round the other side, and whipped off the boost pipe from the turbo, and plugged it with a screw, then pushed a small length of pipe on the turbo outlet and plugged that one too. Started it up. and it ran. So I took it for a spin. Well I have to say i was VERY surprised indeed. Folks had said it would be pants, wouldn't pull over 50mph etc etc, but I wasn't convinced by the doom and gloom merchants, ( I never am). So what was it like then? well as I said I was surprised. As I pulled away initially i waited until the road was completely clear just in case it was really slow as predicted. BUT it wasn't, moving off isn't much different really, obviously its less powerful, but it is MUCH more powerful than a 12J n/a, prob on a par with a 19j TD. it seems happy to rev freely, seems more fun to drive, dare I say it, (round country lanes anyway). I took it out on the dual carriage way, and it pulled a desired 60mph up a long ( 1 1/2mile) incline. I decided to accelerate and although much slower, it DID pick up well. Then on the return, on the flat, I planted my foot, and (again obviously not as quick) it accelerated from 56- 75 with ease and prob would have gone over 80 with ease had I not had to turn off. So It is VERY drivable but the funny thing I noticed (as I drove with one eye in the side mirror) there was ABSOLUTELY no smoke whatsoever. So To recap I've blanked off the turbo boost pipe, so I still have a fully functioning turbo but without the extra fuelling on boost. The BIG question is MPG. Will it be a gain, a loss, or same as. If it is a reasonable gain (10% would be nice) then I'll plumb in some copper micro bore pipe and a small gas tap fitted in line, in the cab, so when up a long hill, or loaded I'll turn on the 'gas'. It really does go very well indeed.! Can't wait ti fill up after a couple of hundred miles ( always fill up twixt 200-250)

well dare I say it, but if you're a canny welder and a bit of a fabricator, then there is an option, and one that I've not seen done, but there could be an opening here for someone. if you need a 'couple of xtra feet' then it should be quite simple really. If you have a sw, then find yurself a 110 ht tub and roof sides, and posiblly a x-member as well. Cut off the overhang from the tub, but leave the return rear sides. fabicate an extension to the chassis that bolts thro the old x-member of say 24" or whatever the cutoff bit measures, with a 'new' x member / mounting plates visible at the rear. Then attach the two parts, making a joining strip, and then use the cut down hardtop roof sides with rear quarter window returns, instead of your sw rear panels, and roof extension to tie the lot together, re fix your rear door to the new extension, wire up the lights etc and from the rear no one would know. You could make it 'demountable' so for insurance purposes it would just be a 'load' that you were carrying and not a mod. Tow bar might need a bit of thinking about. I've always wondered why LR never offered a 90 with the rear o/h of a 110? that would be a useful truck!

That'll be an ooops! then. Oh well maybe next time I'll put in the tank. Done it this way for years tho' , although its not unfiltered deisel, as its already passed thro the old filter, which was prob a bit bunged up, so.... extra fine filtered, then poured into another filter. So stuff would be clean n'es pas!

:hysterical:

Ok then!! techy question! ? where does the FIP get its deisel from? the inside of the filter (by that I mean the large hollow well that you see when you look inside) or from the gap between the outer casing. I was under the inpression that if I poured it into the filter centre, then this would be filtered by the ..er...filter as it passed thro. OR does it work the other way round, ie the fuel in the centre is CLEAN. Because the drain off is basically in the centre bit.. Anybody ACTUALY know!?

Oh deary me! being the skinflint I am, I always take off the old filter without draining it, wipe the top carefully then pour most of the contants into the new one to prime it, lube the seals at the top, Normally fills it half, then just stand it upside down over a rag.

The 'coast and burn' technique is more commonly called ' pulse and glide' . any reasonable downward hill, hard short burst at the top, knock it out of gear and glide down the otherside as far as you can. I've fitted a 'kill switch' for t/lights etc. Tyres are pumped up, windows shut, etc etc. Driving up hill, you effectively set the gas at the bottom, and keep it there, and not add any more, you'll hear the engine note change , much deeper, as its working hard with what its got, this is known as DWL, 'drive with load' , then there's DWB,, 'drive without brakes' not literally but anticipate so you don't touch them. After my pump was tweaked by Van Aaken 5 years ago the milage actually went down slightly, initally I was goofing around having a bit of fun, but it was prob 1 mpg lower than before, even tho I didn't drive it hard at all, Q. Interestingly , if there are 2 routes of similar distance from a to b, route 1 is flat, and route 2 is 'hilly', which one is the most economical one to travel (for the experienced hypermiler.) The way to accerelate , as per the BSPC graph, is n't gentle at all, its quite hard up to 1800-2000rpm, change up and same again, the back off at the cruising speed. This is for a TDi motor, not necessarily petrol. There are many Hypermiling techniques, and I'm interested, not becaiuse I cannot afford to run my truck, but because it is a challenge.!! Hence my original post, about getting up to speed, then shutting off part of the boost pressure. Sometimes thinking 'outside the box ' is good. sometimes not. It is pleasing to get a good many sensible answers, from technically minded individuals, rather than ' why don't you get a ....' A. The answer by the way, as you prob have guessed by now is ,,,,,,,,,,,,route 2

As Said, chech the T box, there should be a sticker on it, either 1.61 in which case a 55-60 its screaming, or 1.41. Check the throttle cable connection, in the engine bay, to ensure that there is no slack, sometimes they become vERY slack, and foot to the floor is only 1/2 throttle!

Ah, I didn't think you could fit free wheeling hubs to a 110, seem them for sale now and again, AVM or AVH or somesuch. Something to do with the lubing of the swivels etc. Sustainable 40mpg? I doubt it but to get close on a run would be nice. ive gone from a 5 year avg of 26.4mpg to a 30+ tank fill up avg of nearly 30mpg, a lot of these journeys are only 1-2 miles etc My 35.3 mpg was a run back from dorset with a side wind. Taking off the roof rack has given me 3-4 mpg gains.

There is ALWAYS one isn't there. Now then. Last week I looked into Nissan NV200 van. 54mpg, £9k +vat. OOOO! thats good isn't it. BUT WAIT Avg 7k miles a year. £6.58gal @ 30mpg = 233g x £6.58 = £1533 @ 53mpg = 132g x £6.58 = £868 Saving of £664 pa. £9000 - £4000 (sell landrover) = 5000 + vat difference, would take nearly 8 years to pay for itself not including the vat, by which time the nissan would be worth bugga all. So If you don't ming I'll keep the LR and try to think of ways to reach my goal of 40mpg. 35.3 mpg is my best so far in Feb and it was V.cold.

Go on then do tell..... How astounding.>>> sounds good.

Whilst trying to eek out more mpg from the 110 (best so far is 35.4mpg) I was wondering about the turbo and the xtra fuelling. Suppose, (just humour me) one was to fit a solonoid valve type thing to the vacum pipe ? that goes from the turbo to the FIP,(the one that increses fuelling on boost) so that once up and running at speed , one could flick the switch and switch off the vacum line, so that you still had boost, but no additional fuelling. Then when needed it could be switched on again. Similar sort of thing to the cylinder deactivation on some new vWs ie if you dont need the power, switch it off. Now would this work, I mean the turbo boost on without the xtra fuel, would it give ANY xtra power, over 'no turbo' and would it cause it to run lean. Any reason not to. ok , you can laugh now.

So, in a 110 say, which would be more economical? a 200 tdi or a 200di

on e-bay Hobson Industries have gen LR new take off 300 tdi rads £175

don't forget to well lube the steering colum uj's as well.

got a std 300tdi one that stopped giving any charge, and was replaced . any good,?

another thing to check, if the egr (if fitted) has been removed make sure the thin vacuum tube is plugged (comes off a t peice near the servo).. re pads, I replaced mine last year with EBC ultimax from www.brakes4u.co.uk £39 both axles delivered.

have a look at the servo vacuum case, its the black saucer shaped thing on the back of the master cylinder. Where it bolts to the slave, they crack with the flexing, look carefully and you might see 2 areas where the paint is starting to flake off. The constant flexing in and out causes them to crack thro fatigue. A quick fix is to clean the cracks, and stick strips of gaffer tape over the cracks to seal. This works as the air is being sucked in to the cracks rather than being blown out. Mine now locks all four wheels on tarmac, (scarry) I Must change if before may tho. And yes even with 2 cracks, the pedal sank on start up, and was ok with litght pressure, but try to stop quick and, no way Jose

Ah! Simon, another idea pm on its way!