Yostumpy

there is a thin 't' peice in the pipe ,normally about 10" from the servo, with a thinner peice coming off. this IIRC goes to the EGR stuff, but if this has been removed then it may need blocking with a screw. however yours may not have this. How is the non return valve.? About a year ago I swapped my cracked servo, but in doing so , inadvertantly? tilted the master cylinder to get it out of the way, and got some air in there. But last Nov , I travelled back from France on the ferry, in that massive storm, and the boat was ''slamming down hard' every wave. anyway went to drive off at Dover and the brakes were spot on, so all that violent thumping , and they had self bled.

how do you mean original? this one has a Dubai phone no. on it. are you saying it's a fake .

Wallace has had to wear his boots occasionally, chains on rear, diff locked up hills only, ( steep ones ) worked for me.

https://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=0CAMQjxw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.fwi.co.uk%2Fmachinery%2Frat-trap-makes-land-rovers-hard-to-pinch.htm&ei=mKGSVNGQGMTkaqbugaAI&bvm=bv.82001339,d.d2s&psig=AFQjCNEWMsuBpg_oDzDonzmmLN-XId8EkQ&ust=1418980659354837 seems a good idea, quite spendy tho'

so what was the Phazer?, mazda/perkins? 3.0

ok! but shall we hypothesise ? 3 ltr turbo presume deisel, what could that be. Merc? Phazer?

p'raps the 110 with the 3 ltr turbo is not the only thing that's a bit sl...

check the wire to the fuel cut off, run a live feed.

my '98 tdi HT has the cranked one, IIRC military cranked ones had a sliding lock ring.

yep! mine does that, britpart has 2 year waranty, but after 1 year I have to remove it and send it back for inspection, so haven't bothered . But yes a rattle of 3 or 4 is about right. Long screwdriver on it and then put it to your ear, and its very loud!

I suppose you could 'Dremmel' it out if all else fails. Good that your changing it tho, Had my clutch changed and they didn't change the bush, 'squealed like a pig' Funny really as it didn't squeal before. Anyway I 'persuaded' them that it should have been done , and they took it all out again and swapped the bush for no extra charge.I think I was very lucky.

if the lift pump was a delphi unit, don't they have a screw in the centre of the cap, undo this lift off the top, and clean out the guaze filter. If the sealed pump is blocked with gunge, I do hope you haven't got the dreaded 'diesel bug'

I just washed mine, left to dry, then painted matt black (blackboard paint) but it was too solid, too much of a contrast with the white. So I set to with a sander, and polished off the 'tops' of the x-plate bars, back to silver,.It gave it a totally different appearance, and it now looks 'gunmetal'. Its peeling off a bit now, but it did only have one quick thin coat, and it was 5 years ago.

didn't fit the thermostat upside down did you?

2 silly things to try, 1) remove the fuel filler cap, vent maybe blocked causing a vacum 2) remove the big air pipe to the inlet manifold, if a pipe is collapsing and blocking air supply this will eliminate it. 3) fit secondary fuel canister above engine, and direct gravity feed to fuel filter, just to eliminate any blockages in pipework. If the lift pump has a small screw on top, undo this, lift off the cap, and clean all the crud from the removable wire gauze.

Yes I agree with this, although only ever seen 1. the strip seems a blinking good idea, one that could in fact be replacated with some angle. Is that a VERY early 110, noticing the galv cappings and rear corners, also the series 3 light cluster???

A couple of years ago I fitted Britpart hd rear springs with a lift, and my std shocks were topping out, so I fitted some top shock mount 'droppers', then later I swapped the springs for some gen. wolf rear springs, and took off the shock droppers, and it has never topped out. I believe the wolf springs are rated at 420lb. What colour stripes do you have on the springs.? do you run it with a mostly empty-1/4 tank of fuel? are you sure its not the exhaust hitting the axle, where it loops over, sometimes they can be very close. Are the shocks buggered, and bouncing back

how so? why do birds fly in formation? why do cyclists form a peleton? There is a huge void behind a lorry at 56mph, a void , devoid, of moving air, depends what you mean by 'within feet'. All I can say is that it works for me. Where has this been tested? results? read this, called 'drafting semi's' http://ecomodder.com/forum/showthread.php/drafting-semis-19789.html

Had something similar once on my old 110. I traced it to the fact that the front springs are different lengths, the DS one being the longer. When I lifted the clutch and took off, there was a similar noise, and I noticed the front NS would lift up maybe 1" on take off, and it was the shorter spring stretching and graunching on the spring seats. Once underway if didn't happen. So I lubed the spring seats/retainers and it stopped, but swopped for aftermarket springs of equal length.good luck in your quest. You could always remove front prop, and try it in difflock, that would eliminate any front prop, axle, cv, diff noises.

Yes it hits a sweet spot and feels right. I don't bother overtaking lorries, just sit with them, 2 reasons really, firstly you get sucked along, and secondly, and most importantly , it regulates your speed, . Every time you overtake , it costs you money, but you don't necessarrily gain in time.

I think its the gearing that is the issue. My 110 300tdi is std apart from a Van Aaken pump tweak and a K+n filter, with std t/box. It will return 33+mpg on a run yet will pull up to an indicated 90 on the flat, ...ok its revving to its max. The point is the engine can't pull with the power it has without being able to rev., but being overgeared it can't rev freely enough, I bet if you put a std t/box back in, it will be quicker. I think the 1.2 has to considered as the old fashioned overdrive, not a5th driven gear, ok for economy but not for speed. Even the economy is a bit of a misnomer. The most eco speed is around 56-60mph, which with a 1.4 is about right. But up the gearing to a 1.2 and then the eco speed 'aerodynamically' is still 56-60, but the engine would be labouring a bit, so you go a bit faster so the engine works less, but you are now pushing more air. Next time you find yourself struggling up hill into a head wind at 65, try dropping to 4th, wouldnt surprise me if you go quicker.

Bulb has 2 filaments, unlikely they've both gone,

Is it the dip, main or both. Run a live feed to the lamp and see if it works. I eventually tracked my fault down, and just re wired it from the fuse box. Basically, behind the fuse box, there is a plastic 'multi block' connector. Unfortunately they DO NOT like water, and this time of year,the windscreen , as you know, is saturated in the morning, 'on the inside'. this runs down the bulkhead inside, and wets the connector block. have a look at the block, the black, burned one will be the one you want.

Best one is an air horn with separate tank, fitted to a sensor with a 30 sec delay. mount the horn behind the seat, so once they get in and sit down, .........off it goes, prob deafen them for life with the door shut.

here's wallace with 7.50 Avon rangemasters, on 1 ton rims.