Peaklander

I use a 97MY diagram for my 300TDi, knowing that it's really for the early TD5 and there, the charge light has +12V on one side and the alternator is on the other. In this way the lamp is on when the alternator isn't 'excited' and when it is, it matches the 12V from the other side and so the lamp goes out. The circuit is a little more complex as there's a resistor across the warning lamp, so that even if the lamp is missing, the alternator still gets the excitation voltage - which is what the warning circuit is really for. The alternator gets it's 0V reference from its body fastening but I presume this is OK as you say it is working. Maybe there is an earth missing at the dash display? The white core is +12V from IGN

I have a plan. Tried to talk with @paul mc on here but eventually found his eBay shop (I'd forgotten about it). Now I have a source for the A post connectors for the windows and CDL. Paul sells a kit https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/161496816250 which has the two power window connectors and the driver and passenger door locking connectors. These fit on a body loom that I will make. I just need to see a real-life Puma in order to check where they sit but it must be through a hole in the post. I can't find anyone locally who can program the 10AS and so I'm going to send it to another Paul at https://www.technozen-electronics.co.uk. He seems to have a great reputation and has confirmed that he can fit the CDL relay, check that the function is enabled and also alter the alarm sounder to be a pulse output rather than continuous. I would have fitted the relay myself but I can't do the configuration changes so that decision was made for me. Paul also confirmed that the additional contact picked up at the driver's door key turn, does indeed pull a core to 0V and this will be connected to the 10AS pin7. He tells me that the function is always in the 10AS firmware, namely when pin 7 changes state the other doors are commanded to unlock / lock. So now I need to plan the loom and I will probably run cores to the B post for the 2nd row doors and rear door, just in case I ever buy the CDL actuators for those. I have the new style doors there already. Also I need a new layout at a new Mud console (the old one is full). I need to incorporate the two window switches in convenient positions, maybe an rpm counter if I can find a reasonably priced one and a better radio / screen to perhaps airplay google maps etc.

Yes it has 😀 It will work from a Mac as well, just don't navigate into photos directly, let Finder access it under Media at the Sidebar and give it time to load, then get the image that you want.

I ought to say that these diagrams are now interactive and hovering over a connector label and then clicking will link over to the connector library (and vv). It makes cross-referencing so much quicker and easier. Thanks to LR Workshop.

Hmmm It's OBD2 I think but maybe that doesn't mean it will 'talk' to all 10AS.

Whilst I'm thinking about that, which might be more complicated than I initially thought, I need to think about the 10AS. I already have remote fobs which arm and disarm the alarm. As I have this functionality, I am 99% sure that the remote lock function is already enabled as a parameter setting inside the 10AS. However I do need to fit the relay and varistor, which are readily available and fit in the obvious spot, labelled RL2 on the pcb. Then I need to pickup the relay output at pins 2 & 3 on the green connector. However even though I don't think I'll need the 10AS configuring for CDL, I would like to alter the alarm sounder to pulse rather than continuous. This leads me to a question - does a Nanocom programme all 10AS units or are they 'coded' to the vehicle type? I think that a Nanocom is vehicle specific because I approached an advert on FB Marketplace and the chap said he only does Discos. I can send the 10AS away for a guy to fit the relay and check it works and I guess he could do the click to change the alarm config too. So that's my fall-back.

That photo is the format used on Apple devices. Something has gone wrong there as it should have loaded correctly. I can choose files directly from the iPhone.

Great. I now need to think how I can provide the same action across at the passenger side, when it's the 10AS that will normally provide just a closed contact off the remote fob press. Maybe it's as simple as putting that driver's door position 'contact' in parallel with that in the 10AS relay.

What is the action in the door, that takes place when the key is turned? The extra wire terminates on the motor, rather than somewhere else like the lock barrel (according to the diagram). I presume that the 'signal' is that extra wire being taken to 0 volts (the 2nd extra wire) by something moving. Edit: the driver's door actuator must have a position switch on it and the key in the barrel must operate it mechanically. That's what I'm reasoning now that you have explained the operation @L19MUD . Thanks

Hi, I have a quick question for anyone with CDL on a later Defender as I might be fitting a pair of Puma doors (2012) to my 110. I know how to add the relay to my 10AS and I can route the output from it to the front doors. According to the electrical circuit diagram, each unlock motor has a two wire connection back to the ECU (reversing polarity to engage / disengage), except the driver's door which has these two but also another pair, one being ground and the other also from the ECU. There's a key barrel in the driver's door handle. I will need to change this anyway, as the keys have stayed with the ignition switch and the dash / bulkhead etc. Can anyone help with explaining the operation when using the key in the driver's door? Does it unlock and if so how, what is it actually doing? What is the extra cable for that connects to the ECU? I will no doubt end-up removing the door card but it would be good to know now, as I can plan my circuit. I attach a screen shot from Will's fantastic new resource on lrworkshop here.

I had my tubes delivered (from Toolstation) and one was shattered. They were in their boxes and each was inside its own packing tube. So I asked for a replacement and said I'd pickup from the nearest place. When I went there, the assistant went to the back and brought it to the counter. The packing tube was in a U -shape. I was staggered and asked if he knew what it was. He didn't. I was a little bit annoyed.

No apology needed! I am wondering whether to drop the oil and have a look. It was renewed when my overhauled transfer-box-with-ATB-centre-diff was fitted earlier this year. I've done a few 000 miles since then (Spain trip) and then topped-up when this overdrive was fitted. I don't know what looking at it will do and I can't test it but I guess a look would be OK. I could either put it back (is that so crazy) or get some more. My 5 litre tin probably won't do two complete changes. I would also record the temperatures and then renew the stickers.

You can just replace the tubes, leaving the battens where they are. No need to do any wiring. The starter is replaced with a blank that’s supplied with the tube. i don’t know the brightness of mine offhand but it’s instant light and whiter than the fluorescent.

I mentioned it earlier in the thread, it's 3/4"bsp which is actually 1" in diameter. I couldn't get the supplier of a high temperature one to deliver and none of their re-sellers were interested either. I end-up with one from eBay and am keeping an eye on it, as the temperature rating is similar to the oil temp I'm seeing. This one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/272130811414

The Laycock overdrive on the Triumph 2500 didn’t need the clutch to be operated. You just clicked the button, that’s why it was so much fun (and I was only 17). I don’t know how that worked. The Roamerdrive does need it though.

The overdrive increases the output shaft revolutions by a fixed amount over the input. This is 28% in the case of the Roamerdrive and so the change in the number of revolutions will differ, as it depends on the road speed at the time of the operation. Yes, it's time to get it back on Ralph - that will be a momentous overdrive fault diagnosis and rebuild. The operation to engage / disengage is the movement of a shaft into and out of the rear of the case, of about 20-40mm. I suppose it could be done, with appropriate bracing and support of the solenoid / actuator. It would need to operate at an appropriate speed to give the synchromesh time to operate.

You are sending me all nostalgic for the Triumph 2.5TC that I used to drive in my late teens. Switching out of OD was more fun than engaging. I think that would have been a Laycock unit.

Ha I didn't think about it being far more convenient for LHD. That explains it I made this little chart which confirms that once in 3rd, the OD matches 4th and then in 4th matches 5th... Maybe I need to make a dog-leg operating lever and get it right over to the 'correct' side.

This is a couple of extracts from the installation manual... It is suggesting that motorway hills might be better tackled by dis-engaging the OD, saying that the shorter stick is more convenient. I don't do that, as I have a raised cubby, due to heater box under it and this means that the Roamerdrive stick is a bit of a stretch. So I drop into 4th OD Now, off the motorway, I don't think I leave it engaged much, especially if I want to pull away from a halt quickly. However it is nice to use it across 1st to 2nd because that change is at a higher speed. Normal 1st to 2nd comes quickly. The oil temperature max of 110deg C is also mentioned in the manual. I have the extended sump of course, and am running a little more oil (to the top of that sight glass) and i have a standard 300TDi running 1.1 Bar boost max. Maybe I do need to log the temperature somehow.

We completed a 450 mile trip over the last few days, down to Epping and then across to Oxfordshire. We camped near Epping and used the Central line to get into London for a wedding. Weren't expecting a 20 deg C day on 29th October but we didn't grumble. Had great fun in the warm late evening on Saturday, walking on fields from the station to get to the campsite. In Oxfordshire we met a nice chap, @landroversforever and we chatted about the very similar paths we have trod over the years, in a number of ways. Nice to meet you finally Ross (and I visited his workshop). Anyway I digress, the Roamerdrive worked without a hitch, no noise as far as I could discern and the operation to engage / disengage, is very smooth and 'soft'. I did most of these miles with it engaged and it really does work nicely because 3rd OD is the same as 4th. Similarly, 4th OD is 5th meaning that it's ok to stay in OD and drop from 5th to 4th on inclines. The temperature stickers show that the rear of the casing maxed at 99-104 deg C but the underneath was a bit higher The transfer box was ok According to Roamerdrive blurb, the temperature shouldn't exceed 110 deg C so I presume these numbers are OK. On the motorway I was driving at a max of 70 mph but usually nearer 65 when 'cruising', so there was no 'aggression' in my 300TDi.

It's good to find out the problem - what had actually failed on the turbo? Do you have a boost gauge?

Whatever type of policy you go for, you must declare everything that is none standard. As well as ensuring that any additional value of these is known by the underwriters, it means that they can't say that "they didn't know" about any possible additional 'risk' that some of these might pose.

That made me laugh Steven, if those tasks are slow and steady then I wonder what your 'fast is'?

There are several overnight tariffs now, for example at Octopus: Go and Agile. The latter has four and five hour periods ( you choose) where the rate is very low. It’s balanced by higher ‘daytime’ rates. Some suppliers want proof of EV ownership but I’m not sure if that’s anymore than a declaration. As well as shifting your load by time delay, people are now fitting batteries in order to charge them in those periods, usually supplementing solar charging with daytime excess generation.

Looks great. We have used a drive away like that, although ours was the budget version and attached it this way... but now we have our lifting roof we are managing without the rear drive-away (but have a side awning) and it helps with 'touring' and quick getaways generally. However for a slightly longer stay, that looks the business.