Peaklander

Sierra Nevada I know of (and @panthersloverhas a fantastic view of them) but the Beatics - where is that?

This isn't a newly abused track as for many years it has been damaged through the winter. Each summer Sheffield City council have levelled the surface with heavy machinery, only for the process to be repeated the following year. In places this winter, the tracks have become very deeply rutted and a volcano-like mudflow has swept down onto the tarmac road below. That route is used by walkers and cyclists but not at the moment. The quotation below that @David Sparkes referenced, kind of sums it up, they had a go but gave up...

This is a 'lane' near us, called Moscar Cross Road, right on the border of Sheffield and Derbyshire. It is a grass slope in the summer, usually with plenty of ruts but still gets driven in winter, even after copious rainfall, as we have had. The photo of the vehicle recovery shows the soup in the middle which is a liquid mix of mud and water. Vehicles have been attempting to drive it in recent days and at night too.

On mine (aged 1996 🙂) the bigger problem was at the junction of C-post to sill (cill?) which went rusty. You should be able to see that, the topside at least, under the carpet or mat.

I can hardly see that photo on my phone outside in the sun. I can see that @Retroanacondahas replied though 🙂 Just to add, that panel is aluminium and the C-post behind it, to which it is fastened with the rivets, is steel. So there’s an opportunity for the steel to rust and also for the aluminium to react with the steel and/or the rivets to do the same.

Hi, I'm just re-reading this, you say "later type" - are these the welded frame doors or the pressed steel ones?

I'm getting myself mixed-up so gawd help anyone who is reading this. The later doors are indeed frame/skin but the main difference is that the frame is a single pressed steel piece with steel skin, not one comprising welded sections. On SP4x4 these are referred to as Puma doors and I have a pair of second row in this design but genuine LR, bought from Craddocks in 2020. I transferred across all the bits from the original doors. In the photo I was checking the window mechanism for fitment, prior to painting. I can't see from the SP4x4 pics just what their doors are like and certainly can't see details of the genuine ones I have found elsewhere. I will probbaly go and look at the Genuines but the SP ones are at least £100 cheaper in bare door state.

In my first post, click either of the two links.

I only glanced at them so can’t really comment. 😩

@Anderzander, I looked at theirs at the recent show at Stoneleigh but as far as I can remember (not far), they are the frame / skin design. I will check though, thanks. I think I should at least get fronts to match the others.

OK ta but yes, I mean the non-frame ones.

I'm considering buying new front doors for my 110, having already replaced the 2nd row and rear doors with new, Genuine one-piece pressed steel doors. The prices seem to be crazy but you either need to bite the bullet or sit back and watch. I am looking around at the supplies of new ones and there are both OEM and Genuine available. The OEM ones I'm looking at are these from SP4x4 here at £478 for the bare doors or £1,074 for the same door fully built-up here. If I look for Genuine doors, the sellers seem to be asking >£700 but there are still some around for <£600 . The question I have is what differences if any are there? The blurb for the SP fully built up OEM doors says that they come from the same manufacturer that supplies Land Rover (quote: "These are assembled using an OEM door (from the same manufacturer that supplies Land Rover themselves) which is made from zinc-plated steel to increase longevity". Does anyone have knowledge of how these two compare please, that is the OEM from SP and Genuine from others?

As it’s hardly moving on the scale I doubt it’s very accurate. Then again it’s a tiny tension anyway!

@Retroanaconda11Nm (~8ft-lb)on your dial is hardly moving it

I see that you are sorted with the correct tool. I wondered what to use when I did mine and eventually decided to use a small-scale spring balance on the end of a short bar of known length. It seemed to be quite sensitive and I hope it was OK. 11Nm isn't much.

Yes understand that. I would remove them. Are these left on permanently so they are ready for use? Jate rings sounds quick and easy at this point. Is a bridle a shorter strop of some sort? Is that what's sometimes seen wrapped around the A bar or somewhere? Also what connection is then made between the bridle and the tow rope?

Hi, Here's a question from the inexperienced me about pulling another vehicle 'out' with my 110 300TDi. I'm thinking specifically about when in snow. If necessary, I have a standard tow ball at the back and can fit a tow rope and a shackle to the other vehicle's front tow point. That would be good for the occasional extraction. However what can I use at the front, if I need to be pointing that way? I have transferred over (at chassis change) the normal tie-down eyes. Is there something that I can add there (Jate rings?) that are permanently fitted, to which I can quickly attach a rope - with shackles? Or am I better fitting recovery eyes to my standard front bumper? Like these on 4x4overlander? link. As I said, please excuse the simplicity of the question.

They have a 'tang' on the back. This prevents them from moving back, away from the connection that they are making. It's this 'tang' that needs to be pressed in to then allow the connector to be pulled out of the base. Here is a link to an eBay seller showing the picture I am showing.

I too have the same ones, they have been fitted for at least two years and have no problems.

It's not yet a directive, just a proposal.

Perhaps the simplest solution is to swap for a guaranteed re-built one. There are a number of turbo places that will give you an instant price on a like-for-like exchange. Pay the money and they will send a complete unit that they have rebuilt and you have about 14 days in which to send in yours. You pay a surcharge which is refunded when they get yours. Just Google something like "300TDi Garrett turbo exchange".

A whole new perspective on honing swirls...

I use the 97MY diagrams for my 96 300TDi 110. The PDF file format means that they are fully searchable and so very useful. As Western says, just ignore the bits that you know you don't have. So far in doing so, I have found that everything else is the same as on my vehicle and I have been through all the electrics. Edit: I do have a scan copy of the much earlier 300TDi drawings but they are virtually no use. I think the only part that I used was to look at the turn indicator warning lamp circuit (common bulb to both sides), when I was moving to LED.

This ^^^^ Some Honda CRVs are known to develop a dodgy bluetooth module, which increases drain and it needs to be removed / changed. This is frequently talked about on the CRV Facebook group. Perhaps there are known issues for the VW.

I did much the same in the back nearside corner, although I have a different panel there now. I fitted a cigarette type outlet vertically and a USB horizontally and the feeds were new ones run from the front. It's a bit cramped anyway and might be more difficult at the other side where the whole loom is presented). It is very handy to have a USB there for a phone although I have moved on to a powerbank which is even better. 😁