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I would be quite upset with this. Hind sight is 20/20, but for this reason I have my winters on their own set of rims for my daily driver. Good luck, Colin

My vehicle came with a non working, non fixable, third brake light. I like the idea of being seen from behind (and had holes to fill in any case) so purchased the following off eBay. The light is quite visible directly from behind. The third photo is all of the rear lights on. The truck is ex MOD and came with two rear fog lights. The work lights are also LED. Cheers, Colin

Oh my! Style points for originality:) Thanks forthe photos. Cheers Colin

Thanks, Deep. The issue is getting better with use. Were your catch cans vented to the outside or did you route them back to the inlet manifold? C

Thanks, Western. Those are Aluminum 'sealing washers'. I'll try resealing under the nuts and re route the crankcase gasses to a vented catch can. Cheers, Colin

No replies/opinions/answers...This is a surprise from this forum! Thanks for reading. Colin

Doug, This is intriguing. Pictures of the exhaust, please. Thanks, Colin

The newly rebuilt engine has been leaking too much oil, even for a Land Rover : ). The engine is a 12J from an ex MOD Defender. I thought that it might be the rear crankshaft seal. I cleaned off the engine and disconnected the crankcase ventilation hose from the oil filler cap. I let the engine warm up and tightened up the three nuts holding the valve cover, using copper or Al crush washers. After ~20 minutes of idling, no leaks! I reattached the hoses and went for a 10 minute drive and was met with the leakage pictured on return. I checked the hoses and there are no blockages and the cyclone breather was ok when I put it back on the engine after the rebuild. Could the round valve (err1468) that sits above the cyclone breather be too stiff to open sufficiently to let air go to the inlet manifold? It does open now. (I have attached a pdf of the system on my engine - the link is above the photo) Would it be better/a solution to run the hose from the oil filler cap to a catch can, and from there to the air intake, bypassing the cyclone breather? Do the ERR1468 valves fail? Maybe I could substitute in this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-2-5-N-A-Cyclone-Engine-Oil-Breather-/201949618819?hash=item2f0522a283:m:msAZCYkL5CuSA8CNZ_4J-qg Are these stud holes a common oil leak spot? maybe rubber o rings to further keep the oil inside? Does the crankcase pressure subside as the engine wears in? I thank the collective wisdom of this site and look forward to your advice!! Cheers, Colin Crank Case ventilation 2.5na.pdf

Doug, Your headlamps look great...but your bonnet is missing! I used the H4 LED replacement bulbs to keep the 'original look' for the headlights and purchased the LED replacements light units from Bolt on Bits for the rest of the lights (turn signals, driving, brakes) as the old units were corroded and needing replacement. I like to be seen when I am driving on the street and the original units are a bit small and dim (if you want to attract the attention of the distracted 'texting teens'!) I am even going to attached a raised third brake light for above the rear door. Cheers, Colin

The newly rebuilt engine has been leaking too much oil, even for a Land Rover : ). I thought that it might be the rear crankshaft seal. I cleaned off the engine and disconnected the crankcase ventilation hose from the oil filler cap. I let the engine warm up and tightened up the three nuts holding the valve cover, using copper or Al crush washers. After ~20 minutes of idling, no leaks! I reattached the hoses and went for a 10 minute drive and was met with the leakage pictured on return. I checked the hoses and there are no blockages and the cyclone breather was ok when I put it back on the engine after the rebuild. Could the round valve (err1468) that sits above the cyclone breather be too stiff to open sufficiently to let air go to the inlet manifold? It does open now. (I have attached a pdf of the system on my engine - the link is below the photo) Would it be better/a solution to run the hose from the oil filler cap to a catch can, and from there to the air intake, bypassing the cyclone breather? Do the ERR1468 valves fail? Maybe I could substitute in this: http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Land-Rover-Defender-2-5-N-A-Cyclone-Engine-Oil-Breather-/201949618819?hash=item2f0522a283:m:msAZCYkL5CuSA8CNZ_4J-qg Are these stud holes a common oil leak spot? maybe rubber o rings to further keep the oil inside? Does the crankcase pressure subside as the engine wears in? I thank the collective wisdom of this site and look forward to your advice!! Cheers, Colin Crank Case ventilation 2.5na.pdf

Interesting conversion! It looks very comfortable. C

Reb78, Are your yokes in good shape? I took my propshafts to a truck repair shop and had mine rebuilt (new shaft, reused yokes and balanced) for much less than a replacement unit, especially if you add in the cost of shipping. Good luck, Colin

This cross member looks the same as the one on my '95 110. Mine is a bit dented, especially at the open, bottom edge. Possibly this was left open for drainage. In the picture below you can see the way that the front frame rails are tilted to keep water from pooling on the bumper... My truck also tracks true so your frame may well be within 'tolerances'. Cheers, Colin

Do you have any before and after photos? Cheers, Colin

The Battery Tender Jr. only charges when needed. C

I use this little rig: http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/battery-tender-junior-0-75a-maintainer-0111940p.html#srp It is fused and have not had any issues. Cheers, Colin

The website indicated reads as being 'Retired'. I just retired...I hope I don't disappear! C

Thanks Dave!

Dave W. The rewiring of my lights came before I got it as I am the third owner after the MOD sold the truck. If you can easily find the diagram, I would appreciate it. My plan is to undo some of what was done and start fresh with relays for the headlights and to just use the steering column switch. Thanks, All!

Thanks. This is helpful. Colin

So would this mean that the wiring harness would be specific to the order or modified from the regular Defender loom? Thanks, Colin

When Defenders are sent to the MOD are the convoy light selector switches put in after-market or directly from the factory? I have a 1995 ex MOD 110 that has had this switch removed and somewhat returned to normal. The headlights work from two console mounted switches added when the convoy light switch was removed. There are some issues. There are no parking lights by themselves, rather all lights come on with either of the two switches and the dash lights are wired in with one of these switches and not with their own switch or rheostat. The headlightlight switches are the leftmost upper and lower in the photo. So back to my original question... Were these trucks built with the convoy light switch at the factory or was it a normal Defender and the convoy light switch was added afterward? There are parts of the main harness that are still functional as I was able to get a stalk mounted headlight switch to plug in and turn on the headlights (still with headlights in both the first and second positions). The answer to this will hopefully shed some light on which wiring diagram I should be looking at. (Whomever did the conversion used red and white wiring...) Thanks, Colin

When Defenders are sent to the MOD are the convoy light selector switches put in after-market or directly from the factory? I have a 1995 ex MOD 110 that has had this switch removed and somewhat returned to normal. The headlights work from two console mounted switches added when the convoy light switch was removed. There are some issues. There are no parking lights by themselves, rather all lights come on with either of the two switches and the dash lights are wired in with one of these switches and not with their own switch or rheostat. The headlightlight switches are the leftmost upper and lower in the photo. So back to my original question... Were these trucks built with the convoy light switch at the factory or was it a normal Defender and the convoy light switch was added afterward? There are parts of the main harness that are still functional as I was able to get a stalk mounted headlight switch to plug in and turn on the headlights (still with headlights in both the first and second positions). The answer to this will hopefully shed some light on which wiring diagram I should be looking at. (Whomever did the conversion used red and white wiring...) Thanks, Colin

Do you have Rust Check in the UK? For my 110, the MOD solution was to paint, then repaint, then repaint the chassis in black. I have spent a great deal of time peeling and pressure washing the paint that will come off (as it wasn't well adhered in the first place). I am having it sprayed with Rust Check on a yearly basis. This is the same product that I use on the daily driver with good result. Cost is less than $100 per year. Cheers, Colin

Hmmm...I wonder if I should do this with my 2.5 N/A? Nah...68hp is heaps! Cheers, Colin