Bigj66

All the best everyone 🍻

If it’s been sat for a while with water in it then it could be worth checking the condition of the core plugs and changing any dodgy looking ones whilst you have good access to the block.

Want one.😊

Anyone know the maximum height of a Series 2 Marshall Ambulance on 7.50s?

Turns out mine is a 110 tub and not the 127 as I initially thought🤦‍♂️. Explains a lot and problem solved 👍

I’ve not seen a 130 single cab just the 110 and 127. I’ve only been able to find a double cab 130 with the smaller tub. I read somewhere that the 110 and 127 HCPU single cabs share the same tub with the difference being made up around the truck cab. Not sure if this is correct though hence the query. Reason for asking is that I’m considering fitting a canopy to my Sankey tub (127) but there don’t seem to be many advertised compared to the 110 canopies.

Does anyone have a single cab 110 HCPU and could take some measurements of the tub for me?

Brilliant thanks 👍

You’ll be living up to your forum name then on that trip….😂😂

Anyone got an early 90 with rear drum brakes and can tell me the angle that the G valve is mounted at from horizontal?

I’d suggest making up some jigs to hold everything in place before cutting anything off to make sure it all goes back together in the correct position particularly the dumb irons.

I fitted the R380 seatbox to mine but the standard series tunnel won’t fit that. Not sure if an LT77 would work with it 🤔 You could remove the tunnel flange from a series seatbox and graft it onto the defender one though, that could work. To clear the passenger side chassis the under seat cubby box had to be modified and narrowed but I managed to retain the battery tray. Or replace your rotten under seat box.

I had the 110, Series 3 88 and a 24v Ford Capri Cosworth that I built from scratch. The Capri and 88 were hardly used and just sat in the garage gathering dust and taking up space. Out of all of them I preferred the Series 3 so I sold the other 2 and invested the money into it so I can now use it everyday as it’s maker intended. Cars are meant to be driven not used as expensive ornaments. It’s quite liberating to get rid of those dormant projects and just have one good useable one that you can actually enjoy.

I’ve just discovered that my ignition key can easily be pulled out of the switch whilst the engine is running. I’m going to get a new key cut tomorrow as the one I have looks a bit worn but if that doesn’t work then I’ll need to replace the ignition barrel. Problem it I can’t find a part number for it or even know if it can be replaced? Nothing in the parts catalog just the early switches. I don’t think the complete ignition switch assembly for a 2.25 petrol is available anymore.

They’re some of the reasons I changed to a truck cab. A lot warmer and quieter than with the open space of the hard top but not as much fun as no roof at all 👍

Interesting. I was thinking of doing something similar with the Sankey and then putting a roof tent on top of it. Some good inspiration here 👍👍

Been travelling quite a bit recently so not much going on with the Landrover apart from a couple of local trips. When I did the rebuild I refitted the rear drums as they were fairly new and didn’t have much mileage on them. One thing I have noticed when braking is a slight vibration from the rear and as everything else seems ok I’m guessing it’s some slight ovality on those drums. If I jack the wheels up and rotate them then they do have some resistance at certain points but only slightly. I put this down to new shoes on used drums and hoped they might bed in but nothing seems to have changed over time. I’m thinking then that I should just replace the drums and shoes with a new set. I could just try a set of the standard Chinese origin parts that are commonly sold but I’m not convinced they will end up being any better than the ones I have so I looked around for some better quality ones and came across the drums and shoes made by LOF. These are advertised as being a higher quality than the Far East version especially in relation to ovality tolerances but I thought it would be worth checking to see if anyone who’s fitted them could give some feedback before I purchase?

I’ve been thinking about getting a mk1 supercharged Rangy Sport but now I’m not so sure…😂

I used AN fittings and hose for mine.

I used the series club plastic runners for my truck cab rear window but I found that they don’t butt up against each other in the same way that the originals did which means there is a slight gap between the two sliding glass panes that the rubber seal doesn’t bridge. In practice it’s fine but just one to look out for. I glued mine in with silicone rather than drilling. A bit fiddly but it works.

V8

There’s a bit of information in my build thread as I converted my front axle to CVs using a mix of defender and series parts. Took a while to figure it out but it works well. I’ve got permanent 4WD now to go with the gearbox.

Modify it more? 🤣

Modify the garage door?