Porny

Sorry, my mistake. This is my understanding and I'm prepared to be shot down in flames. (ref: various sources) A turbo has the ability to flow certain amounts of air at specific pressures, and will have a window where it will do so with the most efficiency. Go outside of this, i.e. running more boost, and a turbo will start to generate more heat. A less efficient turbo will generate more heat when producing the same amount of boost as an efficient one. Running over 15 psi of boost with any standard Land Rover spec turbo will lead you into a point of diminishing returns. Even though the turbo can reach higher boost pressures, there will not be a linear correlation between boost and gain in power. Above standard boost levels, the exhaust side of the turbo isn't big enough to flow the required amount of exhaust gas, which leads to increased back pressure behind the turbine. There is also the risk of over-speeding the turbo. When the boost is increased over standard, and especially over 17psi, the pressure in the exhaust manifold starts to increase rapidly. If the back pressure becomes higher than the pressure in the inlet manifold it is possible to get a backflow of hot exhaust gas in to the engine. Normally during the valve overlap period, an engine relies on the rush of cool air to cool to cool the valves, piston crowns etc etc. But if the air is heated (due to increased back pressure) the internals of the engine start to get heat saturated. This increased heat will lead to power loss. You can offset this effect by running a bigger intercooler, and a better exhaust. But all this does is change the point where the problem occurs, it doesn't take it away. Running a correctly spec'd Hybrid turbo will mean you will be able to flow more exhaust gas, without the problems mentioned above. Ian

For most applications, usually as a compromise, most stuff usually isn't that bad.... I'm not saying that it's perfect, but at the same time LR have to consider to all possible uses/markets and try and make a product that suits everybody. As to why LR changed the design for Disco2, I really don't know... but it wasn't the only thing they changed. They also went for a watts linkage etc etc. But in all honesty, the Disco was always aimed at a more road biased market... hence why it also has ACE etc, and radius type arms front and rear, rather than a trailing arm with just one bush at either end. But if the Defender design is so bad, they would have changed it... after all the design came from the RR which remained unchanged from the late 1960's to 1994/5... and then carried over into the Ninety and OneTen. Ian

To get more boost you'd either need a new uprated actuator, or a boost control device... not a bleed valve. My last one came from a local pneumatics place and is spot on (can supply one if needed) Above 17psi (ish) the turbo on a 300Tdi will start to become inefficient under proglonged full boost applications - this is because it will start to heat the air. To get around this you'd need a bigger hybrid turbo. But for short bursts it's not going to make that much difference. Some people also blank off the actuator, and run it disconnected... you will get more boost, but not the ideal method. Ian

Don't know whose car it was, but was towards the end of last year... The gigglepin arms had been blasted to be re-coated, and in all honesty I wasn't that impressed with what I saw. Though I freely admit this was from a purely asthetical point of view... I'm not exactly qualified to state whats good and bad welding - might have just been a bad day though - probably still strong enough, and one of the arms was dented from what I remember. In all honesty the chassis brackets didn't look the best either.... but that's just my view. The ideal is borrowed from what a lot of the US were doing, but in all honesty I doubt it actually gains that much... unless you start having silly amounts of suspension travel. If axle walk is such a serious issue with a standard length arms, then LR would have changed the design... they spend millions/billions of pounds doing Design and Development work (not that I'd know.. I only work for Jaguar/Land Rover Development). I know that standard arms are designed to work with standard suspension travel so a slightly different kettle of fish, but under climbing the suspension would be partly compressed, so working within the confides of a standard LR suspension set up... in this case if Land Rover felt the need for longer arms, they would have been used, or at least trialed... which to my knowledge they never have been. It must be said that the work being carried out by Chris (including the cage) was spot on ... but that's neither here or there with regards to this thread. Ian

I wouldn't bother... I had a look at some last time I was at Chris' (Exact Fabrication - were on a customers car) and wasn't really that impressed, you wouldn't gain anything over running Rose Jointed standard length rear arms IMHO (apart from slightly less axle movement/walk)... and with standard length arms you wouldn't have to modify the chassis. Another option would be to run Disco 2 rear arms... I know Dan (DirtyDiesel) has used these on a few of his truck with good results - they have the benefit of the front bush being mounted longitudinally and aren't that expensive to buy. But thats just my opinion.... Ian

Here's mine: Spec: QT Weekender Front and Rear Suspension Kit QT Front Castor Corrected Radius Arms QT Rear Cranked Trailing Arms QT Front and Rear Diff Guards QT Heavy Duty Steering Bars (www.qtservices.co.uk) Southdown Steering Guard (http://www.southdown4x4.co.uk) Proper X-Eng Disc Handbrake (www.x-eng.co.uk) Excellent Exact Fabrications Stainless Comp. Exhaust (side entry) www.exactfabrication.co.uk - see below: Now with my own exhaust finisher: And that's about it at the moment.... bar an Allisport Intercooler, a custom made snorkel and a few other bits in the near future. Ian

The QT/Whitepeak Engineering HI Flex Rear set up runs inboard dampers.... Having driven the green QT/WPE demo 90 it's not actually that bad on the road - although it runs adjustable GAZ dampers... and it definetly flex's quite well. The dampers are set in at an angle though, not in a vertcal position. Ian

I'd be interested in a price... drop me a pm 230bhp.... doubt it Peak bhp will not have changed that much (if at all).... but the torque and power curves will have changed considerably!! Boost pressure wise, what does it peak at now?? AFAIK in a TGV max boost pressure is 18psi… which will be very close (if not at) the boost cut point on a TD5 depending on the ambient temp. Easy enough to get around this though ; ) Have you remapped the engine yet??.... Shame your so far away I probably sort that at ; ) LR tried running a VNT during the TD5 development, and had massive improvements but the upgrade didn’t go any further due to cost!! Ian

Don't think they do .... was an option AFAIK If you look at the two pictures that have been posted above, the first one doesn't have air con, the second one does - you can tell by the 'bull nose' grill and slightly different grill panel. Ian

I would have done that if i'd been at home Is that the Air Con spec grill, or the non air con one though??? Two different types - actually as per above pics! Ian

Or you could just buy one from the dealer, still a stocked/avaliable item AFAIK.... well they were last time I checked. Not that cheap though. As is the green leather interior... though I think Exmoor trim had some on special offer too. Ian

Td5 has one ECU and one alarm ECU... and unless the alarm is set to see the alarm key fob then you just need a key. Nothing complicated compared to actual 'modern' cars... even on our test beds at work, at times we have to connect up the dash binicle and the alarm key fob to get the engines to run!!! - these end up just straped to the pallet. In all honesty an engine of this age (which will have normal injectors) could be made to run on an aftermarket ECU without a problem..... Ian

You could try JE Engineering too.... JE Engineering Or even speak to Land Rover SVO Ian

Rovacom lite... www.rovacomlite.com Not that cheap, but runs on a laptop and you just buy the modules you need. Or you you could just pay me (I have Rovacom Lite - along with Td5 modules, Defender Alarm, RR38a etc etc) Ian

Works for me as well now (well it did a minute ago.. now it won't)... Does do all the basic stuff, but you can't mess with the alarm, or change the fuel maps/variant files - so no good for doing remaps/tuning work!!! But as a basic package is not that bad... Ian

Don't know as that link doesn't work

You can with my Rovacom .... Ian

Land Rover changed from metal to plastic dowels a while ago, and they come as part of the kit that David has mentioned above.... nothing new Different engine applications see different problems, and some are unique to the Freeloader... but then a few of them also occur on Rovers (inc. MGF) and Lotus Elises. I know that with the new head gaskets (and all the other new bits) we have been unable to break the test cars at work... and I've tried Ian

220bhp and 450lb/ft.... 610Nm... really??? so a over a 60% increase in torque from standard??.... very unlikely IMHO... unless Scorpion are doing the work for you??? 132 bhp as standard (99kw) - so again over 60% inprovement.... unlikely. Thats just like some of the figures people claim for Td5's..... Maybe on an inaccurate rolling road. However, I would like to be proved wrong. I've no doubt you could probably get 200bhp.... but the 610Nm of torque... I don't think so. Ian

As posted else where. I don't see the point in an Immobiliser on any Land Rover Diesel pre Td5 (excluding some late 300Tdi's). All you need is a length of wire (two pieces if you don't want to push start it) and you can start it from under the bonnet (with a suitable 12v supply) And any car thief will also know this - So they would completely by pass any immobiliser set-up. A Td5 isn't hard either.. I can get them started (Defender) without keys or the alarm key fob in about 3 mins if I'm trying (with a standard LR alarm)... only thing left would have been to break the steering lock (though I usually drill them off)... And before any one thinks wrongly off me... the cars are CAT B breakers so are usually supplied without keys and alarm fobs. Stealing a non crashed one, without making any noise would take me a bit longer... I'd personally invest in proper mechanical security items... I like the 'full metal jacket' pedal locks available from a few places (inc Kenson 4x4) An alarm is useful as a deterrent, but how may people nowadays actually take notice when an alarm goes off?? Ian

Does the Audi diesel run piezo electric injectors?? If so, AFAIK no aftermarket ECU company has sorted out an injector driver to run these yet.... you would run into the same problem if you tried to fit a Jaguar V6 or V8 Turbo Diesel. The only option would be to run the car ECU and wiring harness and try and get it all to work - not fun. A Td5 is still a good way to go... Smo I can still sort an engine out - and I can tune them now!!! Can do you a tune to what ever spec you need - mild to wild Other good options would be the BMW 2.5 Diesel (same engine as the RR) - the early type is very easy to get running - just use the standard car ECU... very easy to tune too!!! The later 3.0L is also a good engine, with the added benefit of a VNT... I've heard that people can get around the ECU issues... but you could also run this on an aftermarket ECU. If you went petrol, you could fit the Jaguar 4.2L Supercharged Quite a cheap engine secondhand, and not that hard to get running on an aftermarket ECU (doing one at the moment ) Is a similar engine to that fitted to the RR supercharged (and the sport) - but there are 'a lot' (!!!) of differences. You should get 20mpg on a run... or 3 or 4mpg giving it death!!! Ian

Give John at Kenson 4x4 a ring, sure he would sell you a set of 2.... they make them for quite a few suppliers!! Tel: 0121 505 3668 This is where my steel 'hub centric' wheels spacers came from, very high quality and being the hub centric type (they do both) means my alloys are correctly located without wheel shaking problems - unlike with the plain flat type I ran for a while.... (also, personnaly I would stay away from the alloy type...) Ian

yes, as the actuator will get slightly softer, so will open at a lower pressure.

He probably would Though it's not that easy to calibrate some of them, but can accurately tell you the error. Is a pain to strip some of them and reset the needle. Ian

WPE (white peak engineering) who supply Paidia4x4 also do an extra wide version: http://www.whitepeakengineering.com/Flexyarches.htm The extra wide are at the bottom of the above page. Ian