Porny

We use Band-it's at work... with one of these on, the CV boot won't go anywhere. Means you need a 'band-it' tool though, which aren't that cheap. We use them for various pipework, although band-it's are what come as standard on some OE CV's. http://www.band-it.co.uk/auto.htm Ian

Hrmm.... infamous at last My 90: More pictures here: http://www.whitepeakengineering.com/Weekenderkits.htm Not fully twisted up though. I know it was cheating, but I do like this picture: At the moment I'm only running extended bump stops at the front - just up rated ones at the rear. If the axle is compressed horizontally then it will touch the bump stops just before the dampers bottom out... though if twisted, it doesn't..... But then there are issues with running extended bump stops too (still messing with this). From what I've seen, you'll be surprised what kits come with extended bump stops - yet they are actually not big enough to touch when twisted. The other problem is with so much twist, the axle pivots on the bump stop and rides around it - so it doesn't actually do anything. On standard size tyres, my tyre just rubs the spring mount when compressed (twisted up) and isn't that far from the top of the wheel box. With bigger tyres, or more upward travel you would have to run a massive offset, and/or extend the top of the wheel boxes. Which I don't want to do. As mentioned, my 90 runs completely standard 90 LR springs, it is only the dampers and the mounts that are different. I really don't see the point of a suspension lift on a 90 unless you are running bigger tyres... and I'm more than happy how my 90 handles (esp. with a set of -3 degree radius arms). Ian

I've got a 300Tdi 90!! Chris you have a pm. Ian

The rims in question are for off road use only don't forget.... and not technically approved for road use. AFAIK they are not DOT, TUV etc etc tested, so I doubt VOSA would be that interested in a rim that technically shouldn't be used on the road.... Ian

My Set-up.... Taken from the Whitepeak Engineering page, as it's my 90 fitted with the Weekender Kit in the pics Ian

Looks very similar to Andy's from www.whitepeakengineering.com (you're not doing a Scorpion on us are you Nige ??? ) His runs a Safari Snorkel top.... and feeds a 3.9V8. Can't find any better pictures at the moment though, apart from this one.... Ian

From another forum.... http://home.pacific.net.au/~bhaz-dsl/TooManyHorses.pps But I thought it was quite appropriate here!! Ian

Nope, different length.... 90 Side panels are unique to a 90. Series SWB sides are the same size as 110" CSW sides though.... Ian

You don't need to worry about to this to any extent... will happily run even with the wrong codes Very true... all you need is the ECU and the 10EAS (i think, though it's late) unit... and with the use of Rovacom or similar you can match them, and then set the ECU to the lowest level alarm set up.

I'm building one too.... Well rebuilding my '86 90 into a TD5 spec jobbie. Ian

Blatent plug.... but I've got a Salisbury QT Diffguard for sale.... VGC. Was going to put it on flEBay, but haven't got round to it yet! Ian

It was miles off tipping..... I think Did get quite close to the top though!!!! Not bad for standard springs..... and a few tweaks!!! And nothing orange in sight! There was some 'interesting' people there.... some bloke was telling me that Land Rover 90's were rare!!!.... esp. truck cab ones. Hrmmm.... must have walking round with his eye's shut!!! Ian

I agree.... Overall though, not that bad. Some bits were better than last year. Ian

800 (ish) forwards.... and 840 in the end backwards I think. Not sure on the final one, as went up a few times!!! Ian P.s. should have gone a bit higher so people could see a 'genuine' X-Eng Handbrake!!!

Who was there then???..... Who's got pictures???..... Pics of mine for starters..... (should really have all the wheels on the floor though!!!) Ian

Low tension aren't around anymore AFAIK.... the unit they used to work from is now a football kit printers/sport kit outlet. But the above link isn't badly priced though.... The other place that sells the VDO stuff is Croytec - http://www.croytec.co.uk - not cheap though. Ian

Excellent.... cheers for that!!!! Ian

Somewhere on this forum (I think!!! ).... some one posted a link to a company in the Midlands that made amoung other things a non-dual mass TD5 flywheel, a flywheel for a Jaguar SC V8 and a rebuildable brake caliper.... anyone know what I'm going on about??? Ian

I fitted the same kit last weekend... Took the front cover off and found that the belt had been running on the front cover due to misalignment... Even if technically your engine doesn't need the modification kit, it's actually cheaper to buy the kit than all the bits separately!! - Part number is STC4096L (and the cheapest place I found was http://www.lrdirect.com/customer/product.p...roductid=92525) AFAIK, my belt was the original one from the factory... and some kind hearted person had left the front damper bolt loose (only need a smack to come undone) and most the front cover bolts weren't torqued up correctly. Which was nice (not) I also took the radiator and intercooler out (much more room, and no chance of slipping and damaging the rad) when I did mine, and then flushed both the radiator and intercooler before they were re-fitted. Doing this also gives you much more room. Just make sure you lock everything correctly... I've got one of the complete kits from www.difflock.com (including the locking bar), and though quite expensive initially, is worth it's weight in gold in my opinion and would fully recommend it!!! (kit also allows you to get the old crank sprocket off without any effort!!) Ease wise, no more difficult than a 200Tdi... if anything it's easier and quicker. Whilst you've got your coolant drained (and drive belt off), also worth checking your 'p-gasket'.... This is the metal 'p' shaped gasket that goes between the back of the water pump (casing) and the engine block. These have a habit of leaking on a 300Tdi... which often causes them to over heat!!!. (can't remember the part number off the top of my head) To change this, all you need to do is remove the casting that the water pump bolts into... put in a new gasket and bolt it all back together. Ian

LR sell them as a standard part... avaliable through all dealers. Are for the Ausi market, but they should be able to get you one over here. Part number: RAA621 for the 90" and RAA607 for the 110" - not sure how much though, think they're about £100 ish - haven't checked yet. And if need a lower tow ball... new Rangys are fitted with a receiver type hitch, and come with a nice drop plate - part number VUB000720 - but not cheap (Over £100) but comes with a storage bag... (which is over £40, but you can't buy the hitch without the bag AFAIK) - time to visit some salvage yards me thinks. The northen tool one above, is the same as the RR one. Ian

From recent experience, not the easiet thing to sort out in IMHO!!!! To get MSA cover, you need to be MSA registered, which takes a few weeks.... Ian

Hrmmm.... very nice!!! Do I get one as late freebe to go with the Handbrake I bought off you Donnington??? (could send a SAE if needed) Ian

She was ok from a distance… A distance of about 8 miles… One thing to remember… beauty is only a light switch away!!! Ian

Bulldog sucking a wasp comes to mind.....

Use a 90" pedal... I've got one if you need it... might even still have the throttle cable (but not sure) Ian