Gremlin

I belive you need some sort of gauge that fits at the back of the pump, but i am sure there is a simpler solution. G

This might not help, but i ran mine on the outside of the chassis rails now, easier maintainance if anything goes wrong. G

Ok Ok here is an 88 to wet your appitite............ Nice look but i wonder how it handles in offcamber situations due to height! G

Here is some inspiration for you, i love this landy................. G

I ground the lip out and bought some bubble round seal by the meter, then cut to suit, just like 90/110. They seal better IMO, and no silly pop rivits ti keep them in place. G

I went with the bolts trough the canvas top. Ask yourself how many times will you remove the canvas?? daily, monthly?? It might not be worth the hassle of buying an expensive top, only to find out the cage connection leaks water. G

You specs seem to be like my current build, have a look in the members section, project one-0-nine. G

This might be the only post........................ G

http://www.yrm-metal-solutions.co.uk/

Some research down the same route bounced the gt2256v as the turbo to use, it seems to be the same one or similar that allards sell as a kit, the quest is finding one which is pressure controlled, most seem to be electronic, especially looking at doner vehicles. The ideal doner is an iveco van it seems, as it has the 4 bolt pattern at the manifold mount, the exhaust is another story, it will need to be rebuilt to suit. G

All you need is a good etch primer. Strip all the old paint of and apply, paint to the desired finish/colour. G

I was going to get one of these................... http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110434041308&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Great! thanks Western G

Need some collective wisdom here........... Will a 110 300tdi brake master cylinder work with and disc/drum setup in a defender 90?? Has anyone done something of the sort? Thanks G

I doubt you will manage vented discs also, its all a bit of a squeeze as you will soon find out. Using different calipers might help. G

Funny, mine clears exactly, but i have a 110 bulkhead with a series bonnet, all i did was trim the wing top. G

Try here http://www.dba.com.au/2006/catalogue_start.asp thats where i got my references from. Hi roland, sorry but now the brackets are on and i never bothered to get 100% accurate meausurements, If you follow what i did you will manage your own as well. Ah and find a good machinist who knows what you want!! Grem

Than you will need custom shafts. If you really want to do that just drill new holes in the series axle flanges or the swivels and bolt them on. Your problem will be the shafts, unless you can use stage 1 v8 items. You will still have problems with the steering rods. Are you trying to have disc brakes on your axle?? Or whats the reason?? as i seem to have missed the point. G

Mr Les, used a coiler housing, he had to weld and rotate the flanges to achive correct castor angles in relation to the diff nose and welded spring perches. He will chime in and give you further details G

Yes the center will be stronger,ie planets will not disentegrate or the center shaft breaks, next weak link would be the shafts, since you run 3.5 diff ratio. Usually with a 4.7 ratio the CW&P will give up before. G

I read once a 14 bolt locker (american diff) might be made to fit..............but i might be wrong G

I got a 2 door rangie one and shortened it, it has a longer slip joint and wide angle yokes, it was a blessing, as the standard prop tended to come apart at the slip joint in offroad situations, after a spring change and longer shocks. g

Yep oil temp sender Its a temp sender housing from a series oil cooler system with the lugs cut off. G

My solution, chopped the front panel to the max, its all a tight squeeze with td5 intercooler, ps box, leccy fan, plumbing, etc etc............. it sits in a modified 200 rad frame on a modified chassis x member......... G

No not even a slight tiny improvment.................. sorry................... G