Badger110

I've found a local supplier of BOC mixed gas. Can't do bugger all with it at the moment, but at least i know where to get it

Surely the extra axle is for the additional weight? A camper body is not alot of weight if you're sensible and as FF has said, you don't need the extra axle for that.

Was it this guy? I remember reading through some of his build stuff, very interesting and fully used it for years https://www.expeditionportal.com/forum/threads/an-expedition-truck-on-portals.37713/

and there's a very good reason for that

I have found this when fitting a 110/90 or military lock to a series door bottom...the series apeture is slightly smaller and off set minutely

..said the actress to the bishop

I find with stainless or any non standard biting screw is they don't have the ability to cut through timber in a straight line, with hardwood it's worse but for a different reason. The make up of hardwood allows a straighter drive but without pre drilling you have more chance of ruining the head of the screw. Pre drill at least, it'll save you a whole load of possible hassle. if you do go for those, screwfix do their own brand for much cheaper

I imagine the screws will be visible rather than underneath the lap too so a neater finish will arrive by countersinking

Carpal tunnel syndrome, small local anesthetic surgery but takes a while to heal. I have it in both wrists but they will only do one at a time as I need the other to wipe my arse with. Their words, not mine!

Grab yourself some of these for the planks when screwing 👍 https://www.screwfix.com/p/trend-snappy-drill-bit-countersinks-5-piece-set/26921?tc=VA7&ds_kid=92700048793290430&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI8dboub785wIVxbHtCh3ynA_iEAQYByABEgI_JfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

A thinner wire it is then Now i have an idea what i'm working with and what the expectations of the material are, i can only move forward I grinded down the weld @FridgeFreezer because the ram sits on top of it...i would've cut into it to look but it took me most of the day cleaning all the rust and cutting everything down so buggered if i was going to cut it up My gas is a Co2 i ' borrowed ' from the club's cellar a few years ago and as i said, it doesn't have a regulator, just an on and off, so control over the gas will help. Argoshield...any particular place to get it from? I'll have a look for a 2nd hand bottle which will save me some pennies, but Is it worth getting a Argon gas with a mixing regulator as i have a Co2? Thank you all once again, nice to have good advice to hand

Finally got the one side done 👍 I’m needing to replace these temporary struts that I made from wood so I could position the rams This is the one made with the box section; there will be another one at the other end with box section spanning the two to create a box section perimeter to the hole cut out. I’ll also add a small bracket to take the bunk set up once I work it all out. Thats it now for a few weeks as my wrist is being adjusted tomorrow with a scalpel by a nice surgeon 👍 Im going to order a regulator for the gas bottle and look at a co2/argon mix if that’ll help and I might start practicing with my left hand

The one on the right was a slower weld, it looks better to me, thoughts? Edit; grinding down the weld shows it was better. The one on the left didn’t penetrate well, if hardly. Right hand was slower...patience again

welder claims 150amp at 21.5 volts and I’ve got it maxed with 1mm wire Switch’s on the right I assume does the ampage, dial on the left does wire speed. ignoring the wobbly line, does this look better? Welded 2 pieces together thanks for taking the time to advise

A little more work at the moment; I found some angle in the woods as well as some 40mm box section. It needs a good clean but it’s ok for this, still solid with surface rust. Findjng the rhythm a little easier with the thicker stuff, circling the weld and dialling it back abit with the wire feed. Some of it still looks to bulky to me, ie like it’s sat on top and not actually penetrated

In the move from the current Defender doors to the older split series/military doors i'm left with a conundrum regarding the alarm. When i close all doors on truck and press the fob, central locking activates and the alarm arms itself. As i'm ditching the central locking altogether for all 5 doors ( rear door will possibly be a cat flap and tailgate set up ) will the alarm activate itself if the CL is obsolete? At the moment ( and in the past ) the 2nd row door CL isn't working and the culprit last time was a damaged wire in the B post area, but this didn't stop the CL working or the alarm setting itself. Will i need to establish a way in which the older doors will have to depress the little buttons on the hinge side which tell the alarm module that all the doors are closed?

No penetration caused by impatience seems to be key I felt the thicker material alot easier to weld onto, the weld looked ok but the other stuff was much thinner ( i said 2mm, it's actually more like 1mm ) My gas bottle regulator starting leaking so i stopped before i got much further, as well as i kept blowing the fuse in the plug at too high a setting. I remedied this by fitting a 32amp commando socket next to the consumer unit in the garage and changing the plug on the welder...at least it wont blow anymore fuses! The welder hasn't been used in years so i couldn;t expect it not to have a few funny five minutes Tomorrow i'll be more methodical and change differernt setting s as i go along until i can get a feel for it with the thinner walled stuff. I'll also clean my mask as it's pretty grubby and maybe get some extra light on the situation...possibly a head torch?! Saying that, I was looking at some 4mm angle section to build the frame from as i have a load in the woods. it's good practice to deal with the thinner as well as the thicker, so i'll see how i get on. As well as the welding today i managed to get the doors sprayed up and hinges/locks fitted and the roof laquered. The doors will be laquered at a later date when i get the 2nd row doors sprayed.

I’ve got an operation due on Tuesday so I’m trying to get stuff done before I’m incapacitated for a few weeks and in my tidying up today I wheeled out the welder I was given years ago. bought a few bits for it and decided to have a go and see what’s possible. I watched a few videos and read FF’s thread about what he’s up to on his course and put into practice, hopefully what may have sunk into the grey matter with regards to it all. i had a practice on some 4mm bar I had and think I got the hang on the settings i tried to weld a right angle or 2 bits together as I call them; this looked alright and is pretty strong as in I can’t snap the weld so I guess that’s not too bad? Next up was trying to weld some square tube, about 2mm thick that I found. The point of this was I need to weld up a sub frame on the roof to compensate for the great hole in it and to take the bed and rams so I figured to practice on this scrap bit is a good learning practice I wanted to try some angles first but I think I did something wrong with the 90degree as it snapped when I put a fair amount of pressure on it. I welded all 4 sides and grinded down the outer edges before trying to snap it...which it did! previous attempts on this piece of tube has caused holes which I then learnt to fill in and a few other issues. looking at the welds, it looks like it didn’t penetrate?

Bloody weather’s a nightmare, nice to see progress though😀👍 I figured you would’ve used dpc, I just couldn’t see it 😉

Just a wee observation but i can't see any dpc between the bricks and timber. Have you placed something on top of the bricks to stop moisture travelling into the timber?

I guess you read my thread about me spraying with HVLP My HVLP set up is part of a larger tool selection we use on projects in the construction trade, so it wasn't ever bought to do what i'm using it for, but it works! The point i'm making is that it was an expensive piece of kit ( £1490 with 1 or 2 extras ) and uses a 5 stage turbine and an expensive gun (£500+) which allows minute adjustments on everything ( air/fluid/turbine ). Using it on celluse paints has shown the need to replace filters and liners much sooner as the paint and thinners upset the plastic/rubber in these. This also proves that great expensive equipment doesn't make a **** job any good if the bloke using it hasn't much of a clue! By that i mean me, not you 😂 but i'm learning ! I wouldn't recommend you spend out that much as compressor type guns are just as good if set up correctly from what i hear. My HVLP set up is not gravity fed either, the fluid chamber liner is under air pressure so can be used in any direction.

Nice work! Do you use higher amps for thicker material? What does the porosity mean and why does it do it with lower gas pressure?

I did notice on the N/S top that there is a stress crack on the bottom corner. It hasn't manifested itself into anything too bad, but the hairline crack is there. I'm considering riveting a small plate across it as tig welding is beyond me for the time being, at least it'll give it some benefit, if not alot

Yup O/s and N/S were genuine but N/S is massively damaged, looks like someone tried to rip the door off so the hinge section of the Aluminium has split and the frame behind has rusted through. If you had time and patience you probably could repair the frame and re skin it, but i've enough on my plate without worrying about that for now. On the new door, the welds look ok and overall can't see any issues with it..it's a steel frame with a alu skin bonded to it, what can go wrong?! 😂 haven't fitted anything yet so that'll be the real test I ordered it on Sunday and it arrived on Tuesday which was pretty good for an Ebay purchase

Technically like a hoover but backwards. Yup that sums it up but it was a bloody expensive hoover!