Badger110

Some folk clean them... Bonkers in my mind

As Snagger said, it's unlikely your issue was caused by load on the roof, the crease in the roof looks to be from a sideways or upwards pressure, probably the later imho. has the roof been straightened since the picture? If not the stress will be evident all the time?

https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-south-scotland-51119771 Last time was a few years ago

What you have quoted is for a standard roof set up where tyvek is used to replace older bitumen style underlay and is an accepted way of doing it by building control. The picture is a snapshot of a possible set up that Tyvek show as a way of doing it, but i've never come across this set up as i can see so much wrong with it, especially the notion that moisture can travel through the timbers. You'd be looking at securing your tiles to a system which will break down and rot over time if exposed to moisture. You could argue that timber batens have the same possible outcome, however timber batens are designed to sit beneath a roof which, if installed correctly, shouldn't allow mositure to penetrate. In the real world this isn't the case in many respects, but i've replaced bitumen style underlay on 60 year houses and the timber batens are still doing their job. Like you said, it's academical as you're placing an airspace above the insulation anyway. Look forward to your progress, although if it's anything like the 65mph winds and rain we have at the moment, i can't see you up the roof much today!

I think the 2019 project is the 2020 project and probably the 2021 as well 😁 Added to this project, i would like to work out how to put swivel front seats in the landy and then do it.

Is the discolouration due to moisture? Airlfow isn't a 100% answer to zero condensation, it can still happen in some circumstances. Airflow will always assist in drying out the cavity should moisture gather.

Perhaps we’re at cross purposes here 😉 Your picture shows a standard roof with loft insulation between the joists and no insulation in the rafters. In this scenario, you really should still have some form of vent within the roof to allow air to flow through the loft, no roof should be sealed without proper air management. The temperature fluctuations during the year will promote unstable air within a sealed system. I was under the impression you were insulating the rafters ( the pitch timbers ) which requires an air gap behind the insulation. a cold roof system is this ( this shows a flat roof system, but it’s the same principal for any cold roof system ) so to clarify, if you’re insulating the joists ( the horizontal timbers ) then either vents or allowing the air to flow through the roof will suffice. if you’re insulating the rafters ( the pitch timbers ) then an gap is needed behind the insulation.

The tyvek on top of your ply has nothing to do with condensation build up or air moving over the top side of the plywood. If a room is warm and the roof is cold, the meeting of both elements have the ability to produce condensation at some point. As you are constructing a cold roof scenario, an air gap is needed in the way you are doing this with a 50mm gap between the insulation ( the warm side ) and the underside of the ply ( the cold side ) You will need vents at the ridge unless you tie both sides with a horizontal ceiling which allows air movement to flow from one side to another. With onduline sheets it is probably a better solution for you. Even with a warm roof construction, a physical barrier ( usually dpc sheeting ) between both materials is needed due to condensation build up in the tiny gaps left when laying the insualtion.

Plywood is abit overkill in this situation, but if you had some left over then all good 👍 Remember your air gap when insulating between the rafters, otherwise condensation will accumilate.

Sounds like the cable has slipped on the cogs, or the motor is loose

I've decided against using resin at the joint. There is a possibility of flex in the roof combined with the prep which will be disturbed when the roof is prepped and sprayed at a later time, the joint is likelyto fail at some point in the future.

Any reason you used plywood over OSB? We would use it for that kind of job, cheaper too. Great job though, have you done the work yourself?

Governments too. On topic, i quite like the look of it. It certainly beats any other model of JLR's on the market at the moment.

In the right situation I can see them working well

Impressive work

googling about abit more with your info Mike, i'v found a few porducts that may help. The issue seems to be that the aluminium begins to oxidise, thus weakening the resin's ability to stick to it. The glue you mentioned, and others, coat the aluminium and put a barrier between it and good ol' air and this stop the oxidization ( is that a word?!). I can't go making holes in the roof to bond it, so i'll go with the either the glue base or work quickly after initial rub down and clean. Or, what would the result be if i used resin on the painted surface? If i keyed it in first, this is already a barrier to the aluminium.

The idea has worked to a degree, it will need some bits ironing out, but all good 👍 I have created a timber frame around the opening of the roof and another sub frame which attaches to the material. When closed it will incorporate twist and lock latches and rubber seals to keep the elements at bay here is a cross section i made up of some timber to show how the 2 seperate parts are; For the drip edge i found some electrical conduit cut with a quarter section out and fitted to the outer edge allows the material to be ' cushioned ' at this point and gives the material the drip edge it requries. I haven't got any more pictures other than this one which shows how the entire material sits off the roof now when it's shut. The material isn't tight at all, in fact it's just tucked under at this point. I'll get some more pictures up as i go along to give a better idea Please note, the timbers used so far are mock ups and not the actual finished article With regards to latch's, i came up with these; I was going to use recessed draw latch's, but as it's going to be in a Landy, vibration could be a problem. With these ones, there is no chance of it ' popping ' open. I found a neoprene seal which is about the right width and thickness...compressed it'll be about 3-4mm. Tomorrow i'll shift the whole hinge section for the bellows up and forward slightly as well as trim the timber near the hinge side to stop fouling. It'll be time soon to break out a welder...once i've figured out how to use it

As the roof is currently finished paint, would a chemical stripper be a no no do you think? i don’t like the idea of sanding down the paint job by hand if I’m honest the entire roof will need to be prepped for spraying eventually

Is it worth it? I’ve read conflicting opinions, but it seems if you get the aluminium back to metal and very clean, it’ll bond very well. the aluminium and GRP will be sprayed at a later date

After a few hours plunging into the depths of google and its wealth of information regarding waterproof zips, I’ve put that idea to one side. Waterproof zips are expensive. Also they come in off the shelf sizes up to 1100mm which is standard for dry suits (larger sizes ) which isn’t viable for what I want. the alternative is to use a cheaper water resistant zip and have a storm flap sewed onto the material with a Velcro strip keeping it closed. This is viable but I’m not into making more stitching to the material at this juncture. I’ve come up with an alternative though, which puts the drip edge and the ability to fold the material up out of the way all into one idea. I’ll do a mock up later and show the result 👍

The roof is obviously not built for a Landy, it was built for a Bedford van, so it's too long, too wide and an odd shape for the roof of the landy. To get it to open and close correctly means adjusting everything more than once. Firstly i took the measurements of the original spring arm which allows the roof to raise and lower from the bedford and transferred that to the landy. This was a starting point from which i could begin to move things around to get everything to open and close correctly. Fitting the material allows me to work out how high the spring arms need to be and also how far along the brace they are to be positioned. The roof slopes backwards to the rear of the landy which means the 2 arms are different heights when open and this means they are at different angles too. Fitting the material shows the height at which the arms can be at their maximum, hence fitting it at this stage so i could work this out. I fitted it temporarily inside with wooden fillets screwed through the material and into the timber brace around the wood. In place it looks like this; On the sides, you can see the chalk lines which represent where the original pvc covers were attached to the bedford roof. Now to get the exact height of the arms, i need to fit the base of the material to the roof and here is where it gets a little more complicated, but this time it's because my brain is working at new ideas and isn't content with the norm Before i get to the that part, let's keep on track. The material was held down with aluminium strips, a little rudimentary to say the least, but it worked with the pvc covers originally fitted. Digging out the old strips ( i kept them ) they were a little on the, shall we say, bent side? So they needed a little persuasion to get straight again. a straight piece of wood to screw to, a hammer and another piece as a buffer so as not to damage the alumium too much and away i went. I screwed it onto the stright edge and persuaded it with the hammer to straightened them out and thus ended up with a straight piece; All good there. These are supposed to be fitted like this to the material ( ignore the lower one, that's being stored in the guttering for a minute ) Back in the 70's, this was considered a good idea and with pvc i can see the attraction to the manufacturer of said roof, but in this day and age, it's not going to cut it. So i need to come up with a better idea and to start with, i'm going to create a drip edge by attaching a piece of phenolic ply to the roof and then fix the aluminuim strips to the inside of the bellows thus removing all traces of a join or an area where the material is sandwiched and can gather water on the outside i didn't take a picture of this, but will do in the future when i begin to do it. The bunk also had to be temporarily fitted so i have an idea if the bellows, spring arm or anything else will foul it or it will foul them It doesn't at this stage, however i may fit it on the other side...depends where i put the cooker/sink eventually. If you're still here, then you may remember me mentioning my brain going off on one, and here is the idea. I like the dormobile design, it's alot bigger inside than any other pop up design as it gives full head height from behind the front seats to the rear door with no obstruction. This is great fro manouvering inside and sleeping arrangments are easier too. However.... I like the idea of this; Ignoring the clamp! That's just to highlight the idea. I want to be able to lift up the bellows so we can provide a view out of the side on nice sunny days. When i was looking at the way to fit the material to the roof it came to me that after it was secured to the roof with my drip edge technique, then if i were to fit a strong waterproof zip at this point (finger pointing in direction ) all the way around, i could technically, on a nice sunny day, unzip it and lift the material out of the way, thus creating a convertable, pop up roof! How rock n roll is that! Now to google tent zips.............

A busy day today after our little jaunt of 750 miles to pick up a trailer tent for the wife on thursday ande landy behaved beautifully. The roof has been DPM sheeted and plywood covered now so it's ready for the resin ( when it arrives ) to seal the edges and finish that little job off. Today i concentrated on the material, mainly fitting the press studs which allow the inner framework to attach to the material. It's a simple process and i've been assured it's waterproof as the hole created is sealed up when you combine both parts with the die and whack with a hammer. I've fitted a small thin leather disc on the back to help After these were fitted to the front elevation, i clipped them in and this is where the fun begins!

I can see how the deadline would affect you, it turns a hobby into a job, and no one wants that unless they’re being paid good luck with it, it’s about the journey, not necessarily the destination

Also tidy up. I find an untidy workshop drains on the mental ability to do something..tidying my area clears my head

It’s an invoice and not a penalty as far as I’m aware. you can chose to not pay it, I highly doubt they will take it further as the costs to them far outweigh the gain. There are an awful lot of people who will pay it and it is these that they earn their money from.