Badger110

Looking at those Waeco pads, the elements do look to be of a thicker cable than the standard LR versions. I had to do a repair to my standards as some one had spilt a drink on them before i owned it and the wire had corroded. I found out as it burnt a hole in the wife's arse one evening...she wasn't amused and even now hesitates to turn the seat on 😂

That is awful...reminds me of those pictures where they double the eyes, my brain can’t compute it!

They may be aftermarket wiring for heated seat pads, possible exmoor trim? They don't look original colours and certainly not the plugs. If you release the solid plastic trim at the base of the seat pad, you can remove the cloth trim from the seat and see if you have heated pads fitted. A quick google shows these on Ebay; https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/UK-2-seat-4Pad-Universal-dial-Switch-Carbon-fiber-Heated-Seat-Heater-Kit-5-Level/173652937020?epid=2176877615&hash=item286e85893c:g:TCMAAOSwnHZYT5U4 Plugs look similar and they even show you how to wire them up

I’m not denying their stuff isn’t good, just that you can get it elsewhere cheaper.

Tidy job that 👍

oh dear....

Just being curious, but is the 109 up for sale?

109 with a straight 6 sounds tempting...

Brilliant work Steve, I would never think to use 6mm rod to make a basic shape outline first, clever idea👍

It's usually marketing from JLR or dealerships. It's why some folk buy a Defender for the name and wash it constantly and place sawtooth alloys and an expedition roof rack and secretly call themselves Bear grylls...

I find mudstuff items overly expensive for what they are, unfortunately no one else at the moment does an off the shelf console for the roof.

I looked at the various variations for roof pop ups and the dormobile just gives the most space and lightens up the rear as well with the extra windows in the shell. Price wise they're very reasonable as well and a 2nd hand one being rare as rocking horse poo, even cheaper. The work involved getting this one to fit will be interesting as the roof is wider than the 110 body so will require re working..the flipside is it's GRP so easy to work with I followed you thread and was going to offer to hold it for you down my way ( near plymouth so ferry over to France is down the road from me ) but i arrived late to the party and it has been sorted. Would like to see what you come up with

Weeeeellllll The ambulance body got purchased before i got to see it, so alas, this porject will be on the backburner for a while until another one pops up on my radar. In the meantime i shall begin a thread on how to shoe horn a Bedford CF2 dormobile roof onto a 110 in the not too distant future ( angle grinders and buckets of resin at the ready! )

I'll be watching this as i've toyed with simple ideas with wood, but would like to see something made from GRP to make use of the spare room up top

My only issue is i’m the deaf one and the wife keeps shouting at me.... even when we’re not in the landy.

I am abit late to the party and i'm glad you came up with a good solution which worked I thought i would point out this little gem i came across not so long ago, it's a 500lb winch which works off a cordless drill. Having lots of these drills about and various dodgy body parts, i find it a doddle to move stuff about https://www.amazon.co.uk/Portable-500lb-Electric-Powered-Winch/dp/B07P7GH29G/ref=asc_df_B07P7GH29G/?tag=googshopuk-21&linkCode=df0&hvadid=310855477562&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1694740625808202929&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=1006978&hvtargid=pla-701276682937&psc=1

The little mishaps are what make the journey to the finished product so memorable!

Dyna matt stops vibrations by adding mass to a structure. It isn't a sound barrier. Placing it under the bonnet will do virtually nothing to reduce engine noise other than provide a very minimal sound barrier because there is more of an object. It will reduce vibration in the bonnet itself which in turn can help reduce the noise created by the bonnet vibrating, but that is different to placing a sound barrier on the underside of the bonnet to reduce engine noise. The proof of the pudding is in the way in which it has been applied. Plastering dynamat or any butyl mat onto the interior of a car ( or bonnet ) in such a way that it creates a full covering is a money making scheme using false promises to those gulible to have it. Carefully placed strips of a butyl matt will create mass to a flimsy aluminum body panel and give the same affect as completely covering it. However, these companies won't sell so much and thus less profit... Correct engine noise reduction systems in cars don't use Butyl alone, they will use a mixture of different products. My experience isn't in aeronautical ( had to check the spelling there! ) acoustic engineering, but it is in sound design for the hospitality sector

You could shutter around the sub base with concrete blocks instead of timber, this will remove the worry of the timber shuttering rotting over time. When pouring, remember to pour the wall foundations first and then onto the base...ie don't shove it in the middle and sweat trying to push it onto the edges. Have a chat with the guy on the mixer truck, they're usally pretty good if they know what you're trying to achieve and will be patient with you.

I do question why people put dynamat on the underside of a bonnet Probably the same people who think closing your eyes makes the lights go out!

I purchased a set of chains ( Pewag ) for our Switzeland/Austria trip and although they weren't used, we did use them on an evening/early morning trip across Dartmoor. They are packaged well in their own box's ( a pair per box ) with clear, waterproof instructions and spare parts sealed up in bags. I do confess to having never tried them before this point so i was very grateful for the above when you're kneeling in the cold trying to fit them and they are a fairly simple technique which takes less than 5 minutes with 2 of you doing it. We were able to traverse a road with chains which was compacted frozen snow with no chance of doing otherwise. We were also able to tow other stuck vehicles off the roads so the snow plough could get through. Driving is a different experience as you are fully aware they are there and the conditions warranted having them. Personally i wouldn't go anywhere nowadays without them if i was mindful of freezing conditions.

Just read this thread and there is some awesome work done here I love how your mind works and you can see it in your head and away you go, top stuff

I fitted a webasto which is fairly stright forward and looked at purchasing a Rover 75 thermo top for heating the block on our more northern trips through Norway and Finland, these are 12v control without worrying about plumbing into the vehicle electrics. I did look at a shower set up with the hot water supplied via the thermo top, but there is a lot of work involved for something which you probably won't use much in the back of a 110! I found the sepaerte propane gas showers a more suitable idea for a hotwater supply within the 110 ( or outside for a shower ). They're fairly compact ( no bigger than a power shower unit ) and if you're already running a gas bottle on board they will supply hot water pretty quickly. I will get one when we move onto the next conversion but mainly use it for washing off muddy dogs!

That there is a proper Landy fix !

The only issue with bonding it other than welding is the stress causing the initial problem will break a bond over time. Unless you can find a flexible bond of some sort...like a super strength CT1 !