Nonimouse

I honsetly don't know. I don't think so, because 200 injectors are two stage

Lands End is Easter weekend

I just buy washers form my diesel injection specialist (who sadly is about to close), with the compression ridge

I'll let you know. The MCC are terrible at communication

Thank you Ian, nice to see you back. How's it going?

So did I - but in fact the RRS is 108.1" and the D3 is 113.6. Every day a school day

Thank you all for the input, I shall spend some time following this up, tomorrow

Persoanlly, I'd drive it. Actually use it. Find out what breaks I had LSD's on my RRC. Only thing I changed was using some Ashcroft rear half shafts - simply because I was given them. Biggest tyre I used was 32.5". Always muds On the 100", I broke the one an only diff I've ever broken in a land rover product (except for all the ones we broke at LRE on D2's) - left foot breaking in a gravel stream bed whilst recovering another vehicle, in reverse. So I deserved it On the 110 and the D1, standard. All the way through - although I used some non standard rear flanges in the 110; which saw more hard off road beating than 99.9% of Land Rovers My 88" Hybrid (Benji), ran a 4.6 Supercharged JE Lump, yet also didn't break 4.7 series diffs and RRC ten splines, despite 35x12.50 MT's Unless there is a comprehensive design flaw in the vehicle (early D2), it's the driver that breaks the diff. So learn to drive it

As most of you know, I have a D1 200tdi. It's fitted with a Boomslang Loom, to improve the lights. This has been modified by me to also run the spot lights. I have LED side lights but halogen bulbs in the Headlights and spotlights. On side lights, with the engine running, I'm getting a positive charge 'leakage' to the OS headlight and it is partially illuminating. Not enogh to worry about and it passed the MOT, but it's annoying me. I spent a big chunk of time last sunday, trying to find out what the hell ios causing it. No it's not an earth fault! Everything is working as it should. The side light LED's are fitted with ballast resistors. I'm stumped. Ant ideas?

Yes. there are a few of those, as well as a 2.5 Touring. Generally lifted, ballasted and driven hard Then the next car will be an Imaculate Model A that just pootles up the hill like it's not there

I have a Suzuki Grand Vitara as a run about/works vehicle - like all it's brand, boringly reliable, well thought out and very economic. I keep the Disco for the pleasure of driving and for it's all round usefullness. Yet having driven a fair few D3/4, I am often tempted. I'm only thirty or so vidoes into the 106 done by LR Time and I know for a fact I won't be buying a D3/4, ever. Not even the V8 petrol. Simply mo point. THe 'reliable ' ones are just too uncommon, the standard of LR dealer servicing is poor and the parts cost is ludicrous. As for the RRS, it's a D3 with a less funbctional body. I would have a D2. Very much so, with a TD5 lump. I like them. It's know and it's simple. I like simple. Mind you, there have been a few 'you want the TDV8' comments. Just wait until you find out all the problems with those

Err 4261 if I recall correctly When I fettid my hybrid injectors, I got all flustered when I had a sealing issue, but I did a 'Mike' and all was fine

I've become quite addicted to it. The explainations of the failings are really good Having worked on a few D3's and seen the issues with our work D4's, I've always shied away from them. Now I know that gut feeling was worth listening to

If it's not been messed about with, it's generally just lack of use

This is fairly common. They seize up through lack opf use. In reality they are a tool, not for use when stuck, but to prevent getting stuck. It should be light enough to use on the move Usually they can be unseized by sparay shed loads of easing oil, like Plus Gas, onto the linkage then applying gentle but considerable force. Once moving, keep lubricating and moving in an out....ooooer

USB C on my phone for charging other phones - 12500mAh; and charges up in half an hour

I've got loads. A friend used to be a delivery driver for Asda

Ive bought second hand hella/Cibie before and simply fitted LED lamps into them. The refraction is relatively simple, and I'm only supplementing the natural 'hole' in the light pattern of my standrad headlights

You know me. I always reccomend SuperPro. But they are pricey. Flow-flex are quite popular with the rally boys. That's all I know about them. I actually have Duraflex bushes on my shocks. Simply becuase SP didn't have any to fit (odd size, rare shock). I have the replacment SP bushes in the garage, ready to fit. Since 2014! The bushes look the same as they did when I fitted them. But they are Yellow. Which I don't like. When I replace body mounts, I just buy them from YRM. No idea who's they are but they are very good

From experience, you will struggle to find cheap price, low bling, long lasting, effective lighting. Every time I think I have succeeded in turning base metal to gold, I find it's still base metal

I would then look at getting it IVA'd; just so it ticks all the boxes in foreign climes Meant to say, indespension allows for very close coupled axles as they have passive steering under load. That TP is heavy. Proper heavy. It tows like a dream and I can put it anywhere. Using 235/75x16 MT's means it doesnt sink in the soft stuff, but tracks well on the road.

This getting old thing is a PITA. I moved over to a Bell tent for camping, which allows the used of a decent camp bed and the ability to stand up. Brilliant tent, unless it gets wet. Then it's a nightmare. If rain is forecast I take my big quechua. Still a PITA when wet, but at least it doesn't weigh more than the vehicle. My back is shot. Not fixable. So sleeping in a vehicle or camping pod is becoming more and more attractive. I really like the Aliner, but being American is heavy. I looked at an Erde, last time I was up at Nash. The guy had mounted it on a sub chassis and fitted a toyota hi-lux rear axle, so he could run the same tyres as on his 80 series. Loved the little Erde 'van. Ideal for simple 'van camping; but the whole sub chassis and big tyres thing made the ste up impractical and heavy I've often pondered the ex BT rear, from off the Transit work vans... But the cooler wagon back is so easy to heat and stays warm. When James and I converted the TP Chipper to twin axle, I found a supplier in Bridgwater, who sold us two brand new indespenision beam, 1500kg SWL, with braked hubs and LR pcd for £120.00 each (ex VAT)... I'd be tempted to buy a decenct trailer chassis, replace the axles (indespension beams give you more than adequate strength and reasonable ground clearance. There's no point in using a NATO hitch, and some foreign types frown on them. The old Bradley hitch is excellent off tarmac, and it has the manual reversing break lock out, as well as being field srippable with two spanners Edited to say, I meant Eriba, not Erde

Mike, I see where you are coming from. I'm negotiating with James to buy that american folding cravan he has in the yard. Strong and a strong thing.

That's a lot of weight. Puts the kibosh on all but the most gentle off tarmac stuff. As such you would be better going twin axle. More stable, better breaking, easier to manouver

Simon I'm going about this in reverse I seperated with my wife back before Christmas. After 20 years of not being able to store 'useful stuff' anywhere but the garage, lock up and workshop. I'm living over the road, so I can share the kids, with the hope of buying the property of the other beneficiaries (it's my dad's old house). Sadly my brother is not excepting that the UK has had a housing market crash, so it's a 50/50 chance I'll get to the place. Meaning I darent start hording. So what I'm doing instead, is sorting. giving away, chucking away, weighing in and generally lightening the load If I do buy the place, I'll start hording properly Good luck