Nonimouse

The probelm with HEATAS is that if you've got £3k and you've got the ticket, you may not have the knowledge. Chap round here, who's about to put anohter wood burner in for me, fits about 100 a year, but fixes about 150 more that haven't been isnstalled right. He's also a sweep. He's been doing it for years, and is happy to take the time to look and think. He's reasonably priced as well Problem with the wind we get these days is it goes round in circles - more so than before global warming messed stuff up

Two good events coming up: 5th Feb Cotswold Clouds - put on by the Stroud Motor Club 12th Feb 75th Anniversary Exmoor Trial - put on by the North Devon Motor Club The other 'biggie' in at the Easter weekend is the Lands End Trial https://www.themotorcyclingclub.org.uk/the-lands-end-trial/

which 300 turbo did you use?

Mike, LR used to provide the various spigot bush connversions for V8/200/VM an, IIRC correcty the VM to 200 conversion had 1/4" of splines 'spare'

You get warrantee with a recon unit

Is that Henry Siebert-Saunders from Aerial Cars?

I have a spare LT77 for a DIsco, that I believe to be good, you are welcome to it

It's going to be wet. Daisy will be there to look after me - she's technical support

I use a Donaldson type centrifugal filter at the pointo of entry (snorkel) , running to a standard LR paper filter (cooper or Mahl, I think). Having being brought up on K&N being the best thing possible, years of competition and hundreds of thousands of miles of off tarmac driving (in every dust imaginable) has opened my eyes. I do feel the 200Tdi filter is better (like most things 200Tdi - but that's just a personal feeling

I have an old Kenlow block heater. It's mains 240, but really doesn't draw much at all, not like the new ones. https://parts.jaguarlandroverclassic.com/prc9674-heater.html this is the LR Block heater

I've been studying the Berlin Breslau for a while, as we are building a vehicle for it - albeit slowly. I can't see why a full bodied D2 cant be competive. It's mainly about reliability, durability, stratedgy and teamwork (actually that's pretty much every long Ultra4/Raid/King/long distance endurance event is about). The biggest concern is the water crossings, and that's where stratedgy comes into play

It's a steal

This friday night/saturday morning will see the 93rd running of The Exeter Trial https://www.themotorcyclingclub.org.uk/the-exeter-trial/ I'm Hill Chief at Underdown and all the marshal's vehicles will be Land Rover's (hence the tenuous link) Sadly Underdown is lousy for spectators, as we open at 23.35 and close at 05.30, but there are some great spectator hills later in the day (see link) We are always short of marshal's, more so this year, thanks to the winter plague season. It's fun, but hard work; howevere if you are a car/bike nut, you will fill your boots!

When did you move to Brissle?

I replaced the reversing light's with LED's - bought cheap on Ebay. I went for the brightest I could fit. That was five years back and they are still fine

Pretty much dead on

Hence the locking beam suggestion - does away with working on suspension at full droop all the time

I use a two poster a lot - it's useful but far from ideal. May favourite set up, simply for versatility is a four poster with parallel locking beams and a cross jack. They aren't expensive second hand. if you shop around the bankrupt stock auctions. Do't go hydraulic, go electric screw, simpler, easier to maintain. I would suggest that you make the roof higher and try and get a 3.5 tonne four post. Height is always useful and four tonnes allows you to work on modern LR stuff, if you want to

http://www.kellybraysteering.co.uk/ There's also Marles, up by Leominster, then there's http://www.ics-steeringspecialist.co.uk/

Starting issues would be: Injectors Starter motor Battery Glow-plugs Bleed back Pretty much in that order Unless it's an auto... Then it's EDC first, rest after. EDC needs ALL the five sensors to work to perfection It needs timing to be so spot on, it's more spot on than a spot on thing - then advanced by 2mm I'd look to fix white. Look, it's a 300. There's only one diesel that's better. Follow the simple rule of five

GPS is just too easy. I like to navigate. I like proper bits of kit, like a sextant, sun compass, compass, lay lines, maps, crow etc. I use Memory map on an old Toshiba M200 - great bit of kit, but I also download google map sat images for hard copy map support. Old adage from the early days of electronic navigation, 'prepare for your equipment to fail'

Probably an old golf green/fairway mower

Moseph Go and look at Uncle Nige's you tube thing on diff strengths - it's interesting I would stay with what you have. The engine you are running is more powerful, yes, but it's far smoother in it's power delivery. Coupled to this you have a modern auto box (6 speed?) that again delivers power smoothly. Unless you drive like an utter tawt, it will be fine

Yes. A hybrid is a Series or Defender body on an RRC chassis

They will acid dip it prior to the galv, so if the anodising/passivated layer is carp, the acid should shift it. I'm no fan of galvanising, tbh, more of a decent etch primer, marine primer and industrial enamel kind of guy