Nonimouse

And with a relay feed rather than a switch fee, they are more than bright enough

The press are loving the chance to take a big hard poke at the 4x4 community Sadly thanks to Social Media and even people like JLR, folk just don't give water the respect it deserves. Added to which there is a lot less common sense about now

OME would be £400 for all the corners, so would Billies. Monroe adventure £240 and Koni 320 I'm thinking that as a 'service replaceable shock' the Terrafirm Big Bore shocks would be ok (£270) as I do know a few people that use them as comp safari shocks on budget racers

Sadly, we have different interpretations of 'not expensive'. £800 is way out of budget

Since OME moved shock manufacturing to Chinashire, the shocks are definitely not as good. Interestingly the original OME shocks were made by Monroe I've fitted a lot of B6's to vehicles over the last ten years or so and I don't rate them they are simply not what I would expect from a Billie. I've been looking at Koni heavy track recently. Problem is that the Raw 4x4 Shocks I'm running have lasted 10 years of Abuse and are still better than most shocks I've used/fitted over the years. I want that kind of quality and reliability

I have a feeling he's taken some time off over Christmas to go to Australia. If there is an urgency, I can dust off my Off Road Instructor badge and meet up with you at a 4x4 Days open day in Feb/March. I don't charge anymore, but do have over 35 years of training experience, with over 3000 candidates trained. 4x4 Days are run near Shepton Mallet, in Somerset

I would go by what Fridgefreezer said.

It's interesting just how many vehicles either came from the factory with the boost set low, or that have had the boost messed with and are running lower

I fancy a 110 CT, preferably with a 200. But the cost simply doesn't justify

And don't use WD40 to dispel water

Absolutely. A must have. I'd suggest that any deliberate upward variation in the turbo pressure requires one, so you can adjust the fuelling to suit.

A 200 usually boosts to .8 bar from the factory. It's possible to get over 2bar from the OE set up, but 1.4 was always deemed a safe max. Rather than an exploded lump, you'll usually just get a blown head gasket, or if your injectors are dribbling, a melted piston

Try the mobile dent services. There are a load on Google, put look for 'Paintless Dent Removal'. We use Dent Magic at work

Paul doesn't have his 110 anymore, or his Freelander. Not even sure he has a land Rover. His name is Paul Challis and he's on FB Does Dan still have his 110?

I am an Advanced Driver and a member of the IOPD, which helps, but also club membership seems to help somewhat

No, it's the premium for that vehicle. By 'Multi Car', I don't mean any and all cars, I have four cars on one policy (soon to be two), with individual costs un der one premium

Economy, in this situation, is added to in increments. For example, a change in oil type, quality of regularity may achieve 1mpg more. Correct gapping of spark plugs may achieve 1/2 a mile extra, replacing the air filter for a clean OE one (never use K&N or similar) may give another 1mpg. Improving an engine is about 4 things spark, timing, fuel flow and air/exhaust flow. The first two are well serviced by the aftermarket; electronic ignition is cheap and simple to replace eg: https://www.lrparts.net/etc5835-electronic-conversion-kit-for-lucas-type-distributor-on-land-rover-series-2a-3-and-defender-2-5-petrol.html. A decent quality coil and plugs (correctly gapped). Depending on the miles on your engine, it's timing chain may have stretched - this needs to be part of the 'big service', timing is critical wit these engines, as they will run about a day out of time, but as rough as anything Fuel flow is governed by the lift pump, filters, tank breathers and carb. The carb is the tried and trusted Webber 32/34 https://www.scparts.co.uk/en/land-rover/land-rover-90-110-and-defender-1983-2006/carburettor-fuel-injection-and-air-filter/carburettor-32-34-dmtl-weber-2-5-litre-4-cylinder-petrol-engine/ It's relatively simple and relatively reliable. It's definitely not as efficient as a side draft carb, which is the route I would go down air exhaust flow, is all about letting the air/fuel mix and exhaust take the easiest route, items like a stage two tune to the head, tubular manifold, slightly bigger bore exhaust etc. Read up on the internet. Dave Vizzard wrote some excellent books on tuning different types of engines.

I've yet to hear of someone who hasn't had issues with 200tdi/VNT. No doubt it has worked for some people....

Your English is excellent If you do a search for Gazzer on here, you will find his many useful threads. I would do a link, but I'm technically not that advanced. As for superchargers, I would look for the best you can find; but over here, we have plenty of scrap yards and breakers. BMW Mini Cooper S1.6 have lovely little superchargers and I have been involved in fitting one to a Mazda MX5. The origional Land Rover 2.25 petrol supercharger modification used a Shorrocks supercharger, but they aren't easy to get hold of, unless you have a very healthy classic car scene in Jordan Worth noting that unless you drive accordingly, a "turbocharger provides better fuel efficiency and reduces emission, but boosts power at a specific rpm resulting in turbo lag. A supercharger instantaneously boosts the engine’s power but results in more fuel consumption",

As Blanco says, get training. Until then just bang it into Drive low for deep tricky snow. The rest of the time, use Drive. When the TC comes on, don't back off on the throttle, gently accelerate 500rpm or so, then hold it at that rpm until you regain traction on both sides Hill descent only works at 3.4mph which can seem quick. As soon as you brake you will bypass HDC, so don't, learn to trust it Do you have a Centre diff lock fitted? For training avoid Protrax, Rocking Castle and Belvoir Castle. That's just about money. Give Chris at The Offroad Consultancy a bell. He has a presence on FB

Where are you to?

I can pop out that way before Christmas, especially when the HG is fixed

Being honest, it's not a simple job and the strain on your drivetrain would be expensive, so once the swap is done, you would need to spend more on a stronger drive train, brakes and so on. Gazzer, on here is converting a 2.5 to fuel injection, which is actually relatively straight forward, especially as Jordan has a good import/export with the USA.... But start simple. Big service and overhaul. Work your way through the engine until it's as good as when it left the factory (give or take). Then look at options. ACR do a whole world of nice parts for the 2.5, except their manifolds, which are nasty) and they also do jetting to suit superchargers! Head work you could get done locally. These engines like a skim and porting. The Webber they are fitted with is the sort of carb you fit so that the engine will run on any octane fuel and 90 degrees out of time... although they do have a habit of eating their low fuel sensor. I would investigate better electronics. You've probably got points; maybe the time has come to go electronic But first give it some love

Marhaba I think you have various options here: 1). The 2.5 engine is a pretty tough engine, but lacks sophistication. It reacts well to forced air induction. Especially supercharging, with a charge cooler. I would suggest a complete re-build of the original engine; big ends, little ends....then swap to an SU side draft carb. Probably a well jetted HS6. Speak to these people https://www.automotivecomp.com/.... but don't expect more than a few MPG gain 2). Find the most common, reliable in line petrol engine available in your area. What is the vehicle and what do you do with it? If it's a 110 with a 1.66:1 tbox in it, just swap to a 1.44: 1 for better gearing Alternatively if it's a 90 you could probably manage a 1.22:1 t box if the engine is good

I stick with NFU, on a multi car policy. They allow me 12k a year on the DIsco, fully comp, two named drivers, £112.00