Kim Horsevad

At that speed you will be pushing the limits of Q-rated tyres. Wether that can produce strong smell of burning rubber I dont know. I honestly didnt know a defender could reach that kind of speed. It must be a frightening expirience...

Get just about any "live" linux-cd and start cfdisk. Erase all partitions on pendrive and install one single vfat partition.

BTW, some roads in Russia can be considered quite challenging... Se link for details... CLICK!

Michelin XZY in 7.50R16 or 9.00R16 would be my preferred choice. Tremendously strong tire, with an expected lifetime of about 200000 km. They perform great under all conditions, except deep mud. Strap on some snow chains for mud use. Alternatively Michelin XZL, again in 7.50R16 or 9.00R16, would be a good choice if the chosen route traverses some of the more "muddy" roads in Russia.

Hi there... I hate windows, so cant offer much advise there.... My advise would be to install the newest Kubuntu (a linux clone wit a really good graphical user interface). Like you I have some really old programs with needs a windows to run. The problem is solved by installing a virtualbox on top of the kubuntu install. This program "virtualbox" is capable of holding several virtual machines. You simply define the properties for you machine and then install XP, Vista, OS/2 or whatever into it. The "guest" operating system (the one inside the virtual box) runs simoultanously with the host operating system. You can use both systems at once, and have the security of knowing that the fragile windows is on constant life-support by a robust linux... The principle of virtual machines is used in server systems, where different customers can share a single powerfull server by installing several operating systems in different virtual machines. Each customer has full control (root /admin password) of his virtual machine - the hosting company has root for the host machine. This gives a really secure solution. There are full net/audio/printer/peripherial support from the host system to the guest system. If you need help with installing some of the linux-components you are welcome to contact me by PM or email: kim@horsevad.dk

If it is diesel fluid and/or diesel mist then do not start the engine until the fault has been rectified. Diesel contamination destroy timing belts. As suggested above - unbolt the timing cover and have a look. If you have geniune "blow-by" smoke coming out in the timing cover the damage would be pretty obvious - large cracks or similar...

No, not carbon rods, but used for same purpose instead of carbon rods for gouging. The outer layers of the electrode develops large volumes of gas which blows away the molten material. They can be used in all positions - even overgead cutting (beware of drops of molten material) ESAB calls them OK 21.03 They produce a large amount of not-so-healty fumes, so ensure adequate ventilation!

I would advise you to unbolt the crank pulley, crank damper and timing cover to inspect the extent of damage. The crankshaft seal is easy to replace, although you are very lucky if you only need to replace the seal if the center bolt has failed.

How long since you have checked the condition of the splines on the gearbox mainshaft (the one protuding into the transfer box) ??

Completely correct. And I cant give you any technical explanation, but they actually can be sharpened and still function as expected. Probably something about the coating still remaining on the sharpened surface. I have only tried one make of these TiN-coated drill bits - other makes might be different.

Here in Denmark it is possible to buy special rods for cutting. This negates the need to keep the rods wet. They must be available in the UK too. They also work with DC (from car batteries) - so worth keeping a few in the truck for emergency use. Remember eye-protection though - the arcs produced are just as harmful as normal welding.

The cobalt drill bits are good, but I actually prefer HSS drill bits with a titanium nitride coating. They seem to last somewhat longer than ordinary HSS, and be able to tolerate harsh working better than the cobalt ones. Drilling throug hardened steel (Broken "easy-out" extractors and similar) with handheld battery machines is fully possible with these bits. I use them in my drill press too, the TiN coating means the bits stay sharp, which results in longer time between the drill bits need sharpening.

Is the "wadding hole" you are referring to the inspection hole in the cambelt housing? Engine front end, below cranckshaft pulley, close to front end of the sump? If so, you should investigate the reason for drip and smoke imediently... Both oil and diesel contamination will cause the timing belt to fail. There should *not* be smoke coming out of the inspection hole. This could be the sign of imminent failure. Diesel contamination will cause the timing belt to fail over a period of few hours, if engine is worked hard. The timing belt runs in its own enclosure. This should be totally sealed. The smoke *should* not be related to the piston rings. If it is, the engine have suffered some rather weird damage...

Beware that unless the product incorporates some (at least voltage-sensing) electroning regulator you could end up damaging your batteries by using such a unit. Trickle charging really needs careful attention to produce good results. The charge should be delivered in pulses combined with periods of small discharge, preferably on the basis of combined voltage, current and temperatur sensing.

It is not entirely impossible. A true diesel will on on just about any combustible fluid. Problem is that modern engines are made specific for diesel fuel. The design of the injectors and injection pump requires clean diesel to work smoothly. Unless you invent some clever way of filtering the oil you will go through injectors and injection pumps at an alarming rate. I wish you good luck and hope you have the ressources and knowledge to build a sufficient filtering system

There is a special tool which makes it very easy to adjust the pistons: I dont know what it is called in english, but it can both be used to push the pistons back (two at a time) or be used as a normal g-clamp

Agree on compression test. This will definately tell you wether the problem is related to worn engine components or other faults. Be VERY sure that the timing is correct. A faulty timing on 300 tdi can produce a situation where engine starts on easy-start (and runs fine after that), but will not start on its own.

Do you actually mean a SWR reading 9 ??? This means that nearly all of the electromagnetical energy - which should be converted to radio waves by the antenna - is actually beeing feed back into the transmitter, and probably doing some damage on the output transistor. There is something totally wrong with your setup. Most likely a broken connection between output terminal on transmitter and antenna. You should not use the transmitter before you have rectified the problem.

What antenna are you using? On most antenna the swr is adjusted by changing the lenght of the antenna. Somewhere on the antenna there should be someway of adjusting the lenght. Otherwise your installation sounds OK.

Adding some kerosene to your diesel will make even the most smoking old diesel pass emision test. Normally 1 part kerosene to 10 parts diesel will do. Most of the "diesel additives" are based on kerosene or similar chemicals. Kerosene has no lubricating properties, so add a litre of engine oil (new) to the tank after the test. Such "cowboy-tricks" can sometimes be necessary, but a more correct approach would be to test the injectors for correct spray pattern, check engine timing and calibrate the high-pressure pump correctly.

Your engine might be wrongly adjusted in timing or pump setup, alternatively somewhat restricted in airflow. A 90" Tdi should be able to reach much higher mpg than those stated above. My own 200 tdi HCPU (with external cage-work, total weight about 2800kg) does about 34 mpg. A considerably lighter 90" should be able to reach similar or higher mpg values. If the unit actually works - you should be able to get better mpg values than similar engines without the unit! Your experiment is interresting, but your experimental methodology is somewhat flawed - and thereby inviting "attack" from scientifically educated persons. When the driver is aware of wether the unit is engaged or not the difference in mpg can be down to sub-consioness psychological factors (ie the driver wanting to prove higher mpg). Wind speed and wind direction is another probable explanation. Setup an experiment using standard scientific methods - if the results from such experiments still show increase in mpg using the unit there might be basis for further debate. Designing the experiments, so that only one parameter is variable between the different phases of the experiment is far from easy. My view of this subject is still that the unit does not add energy to the engine, but consumes energy from the engine. If you produce a hydrogen gas using this unit there will be less energy available in this amount of gas than the energy used to produce this gas. If otherwise - ie you have a device which produces more energy than it consumes, why would you need the engine? Why not run it totally on this hydrogen gas? Should experimental data aqquired using standard scientific methodology prove that you actually are able to produce more energy than consumed during electrolysis of water you will effectively have constructed a perpetum mobile, which in itself will require re-writing of several physical laws.

Great idea, but use an RFID reader instead. Then use a gsm/gps connection for tracking and active control... speaking to the thief through the loudspeakers and shutting off the engine. Adding a high output microwave antenna to fry the brain on the thief is optional. All of it can be made pretty simple...

The new (ftc1994) heavy duty has eight springs, the old one is a valeo normal duty specified for 200tdi defender. However, I dont think the number of springs has anything to do with clutch slippage - and the friction area of the old clutch and the new heavy-duty is actually the same.

Really appreciate the answers. This one has me puzzled a bit. Flywheel checked with straight-edge. No irregularities in surface. Pedal adjusted with 15mm free play as per manual. How does one check the tension in the cover diaphram? Is it normal for a Borg/Beck cover to loose tension over 2 years/60000km?

Right, after having observed some minimal slipping of the clutch at high (2500) rpms the new heavu-duty clutch arrived today. But after the clutch assembly has been disassembled I was kind of puzzled to see that the old clutch has no noticeable wear. Infact the old clutch measures 9,11 mm in thickness and the new one measures 9,13 mm in thickness. The old clutch (and clutch cover) has done 60000km. There has been no oil leak from the flywheel housing, but there is a very light smear of oil on the bottom inside of the flywheel housing. How much oil mist is required before the clutch expirience slippage? Old clutch friction plate: And flywheel: