reb78

Tony, is it easy to press the new forward race back in place with the box in situ and input shaft in the way? - this would save a lot of time and allow the job to be done properly!

You dont even have to drain it! The one worry is that if you are fitting new bearings, you should also change the bearing races. The forward race cant be changed with the box in. I think many take a chance and fit a new input gear and bearings and dont change the forward race (i certainly did when i fitted my gkn overdrive). It will still need shimming up properly but you only need a dial gauge for this and a selection of shims. If you are worried about the races (old race with new bearing) and your old bearings are ok, i suppose there is nothing stopping you using the old bearings on the new input gear and this would remove the problem (still need to check shims though).

Mines a hard top and its currently dripping everywhere! Its amazing how much something that is supposedly sealed leaks! The sunroof is driving me mad - i've taped it up and sealed it from the outside, but its still leaking!! For the soft top, if it is slightly flexible, the beeswax sounds a good idea - i think i've heard of folk using wax on the joints on hard top roofs as well. What about the stuff you can soak wax jackets in to make them waterproof again? (I remember my mum doing it with hers years ago).

Mines the same Ralph - same age as yours as well. I have driven other makes that have this where the rear fog goes out with main beam on, so presumably land rover brought it in on their vehicles some time in the 90s. Although, just re-read OPs landy is an '86....puzzling.

Give these guys a call: http://www.dieselbob.co.uk/index.asp Not local to you, but can send it up to them. I asked them about the necessity to overhaul the pump in a recent email and this was the reply: 'Pumps are usually left alone until faults develop, e.g. leaks, reduced power. To rebuild a pump is between 150:00 to 350:00 + vat & takes 2 to 3 days.' I'm shortly going to be sending a set of injectors there for reconditioning, the company gets good reviews on here.

Pretty sure that some of the timing kits you can buy double up to hold the FIP pulley in place with the cambelt tight so you can remove the FIP without doing the timing belt. However, the risk is that diesel has contaminated the cambelt here and might cause it to slip or degrade quickly, so i'd have it apart to change it again i'm afraid!

As above. This is normal on many modern cars.

I cant make my mind up about it. My BMW is really smeary when i use the wipers - screen is spotless and blades are new. So i tried rainX and it seems to smear a tiny bit more, but less often as i use the wipers a little less. It is quite good on the defender as you describe above.

I thought you'd done it which was why i suggested it. Between you doing it and mmgemini mentioning it several times, i decided that was the way i would go as well! It'd fit a treat in that centre section, but i hear what you are saying about the dunkings! Shame theres no way to waterproof the box with the heater inside and ducting coming from it, but the ductings as i suggested would leak water in to the heater.

Was thinking about this for mine. I am mounting a series III seatbox in the back of my defender to which i an going to attach the orginal defender front seats (have RRC ones in the front now now). My Eberspacher is going to be mounted under the middle seat in that rear seatbox. Ducting could then run forward within a transmission tunnel type hump on the floor and then either side of the cubby box to the front, via vents in the front of the seatbox to the middle rear passengers and perhaps also to the rear of the 110 if required via the rear of the seatbox. Hope that makes sense!

From the tech archive: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25053&st=0entry254775

Have a search on here - it has been mentioned before. I thought it was worth pointing out to you so that the correct process was followed re primers to decrease the chances of it happening again.

I was over here the other night: http://www.bimmerfest.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=103 As a template (ignore the fact its BMW ), this forum works well.... It uses google for searches - they work! - I typed in thermistor and 20 related posts were returned. It has a wiki setup as well (Dont know how that works). I also dont know how much these things cost, so a lot of it might not be an option. (p.s. My username over there is the same as here, so if anyone knows about thermistors, advice would be appreciated! ) Other than the google and wiki bits though, lr4x4 seems to work in a very similar way to the BMW forum on the surface and doesnt need much else changing. The newbie/old hand thing is going to occur from time to time. I've mentioned it before, but i still think the 'New members READ THIS' section needs highlighting to new members more than just being stuck at the top of each page for them to miss. I cant remember if it happened, but perhaps it needs to be sent in the introductory email after registering and a part of it can explain that they need to search rather than ask questions that may have been covered before (a pre-requisite of this is that the search function is improved though and perhpas as a temporary thing, we could give an explanation of how to search lr4x4 using google rather than the inbuilt search function).

In my limited experience, i have found that holes that look like they can be filled with weld are generally surrounded by so much more rot that you will find it hard to actually fill them and would have been better off cutting out/plating or patching over. So i dobt suppose 1 is always much of an option.

Is that a galv specific POR 15 primer? Heard stories of this coming off in sheets and would think this problem could be even worse onto a galvanised coating.

Take a look in the tech archive. Lots of useful stuff in there............ http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=25053&st=0entry254775

Dont think it is seperate. AFAIK, it is time for a new sender unit. It might be repairable by welding (or brazing) it up - cant remember if they are steel or some sort of brass compound.

Dont we also have a great chunk of aluminium bolted to our steel chassis? Seriously though, i'm with the others that say to waxoyl it (or paint....i'd do whatever is easiest and cheapest for you). Its another layer for the rot and rust to work through - even if it isnt perfect, it'll help a bit. Plus, as mentioned above, it disguises the galv chassis from theives.

I wonder if this points to the problem....Not sure, but would you get fuel starvation on this engine at high revs since the boost diaphragm isnt being pushed down by boost from the turbo? The diaphragm is still there in the top of the pump on this conversion isnt it? Perhaps set the smoke screw down a little anyhow?

Boost diaphragm maybe? Is the timing spot on?

Yep. you are correct. You dont need the spacer and so the pump is probably not operating as the arm is not engaging on the cam. For some reason, land rover supply the spacer with any lift pump they sell as far as i can make out.

Landy is booked in for the MOT on tuesday. Just checked it over and all seems fine. One more question though - i turned up the boost and fuelling (boost diaphragm, not max fuel or smoke screw) earlier this year - no difference that i could see with smoke etc, but is this likely to affect the emmissions test results and should i turn the boost diaphragm back for the test?

Can you post a video of it with sound? If you've checked the air pipes, i guess it could be the bearing. Is the oil feed and drain to and from it ok?

There are so many jobs i wish i had done after i joined this forum! I did my clutch and release arm when i changed my engine which was before i knew this forum existed. Of course, the clutch kit i used was Britpart (what did i know at the time? - not a lot) and the arm is not reinforced! Everytime someone puts up that link, i remember that i'm just waiting for the clutch to break in one way or another!

Not sure about that Neill - where does the footwell end and the bulkhead begin? I think you could argue that the rot in the picture goes into the bulkhead really and may affect its structural integrity. If it was just the bottom floor plate, i would agree with you that rivets are fine. Try and get it welded i think.