reb78

Whe we are building/re-building the swivels in the first place, would it be a good idea to adjust the pre-load correctly, then re-assemble, caliper and oil seal but not TRE then remeasure what the pre-load is reassembled. That would surely give a reference figure for checking at a later date like now without removing everything? Not a lot of use to the OP, but something to bear in mind perhaps...

Thanks Chaps. Just changed the intercooler and the hoses were less of a tight fit on the new one than the old, It was a sod to get them on the old pipes, so i assumed it would be on this one. All nice and tight now though and no leaks. Will be off for a test drive after some apple pie...

I think you are right. If there are faults in the steering, then a good damper may mask them and a failing damper may not. However, even if the damper is failing the vehicle should be fine on the road and it is the fault in the steering and not the damper that needs repairing.

Has anyone got any tips for fitting intercooler hoses? The silicon ones are rightly a tight fit (rightly helping then to seal properly), but this makes them a little difficult to slip onto the intercooler. Would a little bit of vaseline or washing up liquid or something else help or is there some reason not use anything like this?

Think it might need to be checked with the caliper removed as well.

The fuel tank may also pressurise with a split boost diaphragm. Certainly does on a TD, so i think it would on the tdi.

I'd still try the lift pump. I think they fail more often than we think. I reckon they go gradually so you dont notice until the performance is really bad. Only 25 quid and if it doesnt work at leat you know you have a good one on there.

Mud transmission tunnel console? http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/MUD_Tunnel_Tray.shtml

This might help: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=26532&st=0entry419578 No need to pay people that rarely know how to use their equipment that way!

And your finger tips arent so numb you cant feel a thing!

I agree. Mine was doing exactly this clonk clonk clonk as you coast to a halt. My handbrake cable then snapped and it prompted me to change that and at the same time overhaul the handbrake. The adjusters and actuator were all clogged up with dust and lack of grease. Took everything apart, serviced the lot and put everything back together as per the manual making sure everything was properly adjusted. Firstly the handbrake has never felt so smooth! secondly the clunking had gone - i'm convinced the handbrake was binding on slightly and caught more at low speeds. If you cant locate a dodgy UJ, i think this would be my next stop.

I was waiting for you to pop up! Seriously though, waxoyl, is a readily available, fairly cheap, seemingly effective way of treating the chassis. And, you can easily do it yourself (no need to pay anyone...). I'm woring my way up my chassis with it - i just have some welding to do under the gearbox crossmember, so have only done the rear portion on the 110 behind the rear springs. It is very flammable, so make sure you do any remidial chassis work before spraying.

Oh No. Here we go again........

OK, so i guess the question is - Did KKK2 manage to fit an oil cooler to his LT77??

This is either fitted or it isnt though? Is that right? By that i mean that i understood that you cannot fit it to any LT77, it has to have the casing that is designed to take the cooler. Like my LT77s defender spec cant be retorofitted with an oil cooler can it?

Ralph has a post on here for adjusting the heater controls to make sure they are working properly. Have a search - possibly in the tech archive. Worth doing before changing things. Maybe backflush the matrix before changing it as well.

You need to get through 5 standard exhausts before you've spent the money on a stainless one. The standary one on my 110 has been there about 5 years, and is ok, but will need changing soon. That means spending the same o=money over 25 years provided the stainless one lasts that long. Unless the performance increases are marked i'm not sure there is a lot of merit in fitting one, but i'm happy to be told otherwise by those that have them fitted. I'm considering just replacing mine with a standard rear box and making up my own straight through pipe for the centre section.

Yeah, Bowie is right. The only way to effectivley search this forum is to use Google and include lr4x4 in your search term. I think i searched for stainless exhaust the other day and had 200 results and only two of them randomly had anything of relevance. The same if i type in GKN overdrive! i must be doing something wrong. Tried it with '+' or 'AND' between the words, but no use.

How does the relay work Mike? (really, how does it know you are in reverse/selecting reverse?) Via the reverse light switch?

I beleive adjusting the idle was the past part of the tweaking process... so this may well solve your problem. Have you searched for and read the relevant posts? Most are mentioned in this recent thread: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=49346

I've mentioned this before, but i do wonder if its possible to put a deeper sump on the transfer box like the ones from Rocky Mountain - that has extra cooling fins to transfer heat from the transmisson that way. BUT in addition, you could quite cheaply install a pump and thermostat housing in that sump that runs to a cooler - the pump comes on when the thermostat reaches a set temp, circulates to the cooler and cools the transmission this way - there must be some benefit to the main box in this way. EP90 may be too thick for this i suppose, but other than that it might work?? Cheaper than an upgrade from LT77 to R380 as well.

http://www.autoexpress.co.uk/news/autoexpressnews/237130/indestructible_land_rover_phone.html Its been mentioned, but no links to it. I think its based on the sonim XP (?) but has a few more features. Does seem expensive and I know its a bit gimicky - with the landy badge and all that, but it does seem to get reviews as a tough phone. You can get unlocked ones on ebay.

Les has beaten me to it

How much would you reccomend turning from standard - i.e. what did you end up with in the end roughly? Did you just turn the diaphragm or do the starwheel and smoke adjustments as well? Oh - and was your speedo reading in your avatar a result of the tweak?!

Another job to add to the list!