reb78

Now that could open another can of worms - isnt it normally the case where the drivers insurance will cover you in the event of an emergency like you describe so you wouldnt have to have third party cover on your own policy for that purpose?

What do you mean they 'saved you a bundle'? Arent the ads in LRO from Kenlowe direct? Will they knock 50% off the price? How does your economy compare before and after?

I dont think there is a correct answer - neither are without fault. Personally i think its less hassle to stick with standard on mine as its there and working at the moment. The electrics are easy enough, but directly replacing the viscous unit is less hassle for me so thats what i'll do - esp if a new one only costs £65 - like i said its worth my time not to trawl around scrap yards risking bits that dont work/are coming to the end of their lives etc.... adn cheaper than a new one.

Any leak around the manifold and you will end up pumping exhaust fumes into the cab. Sure it shouldnt leak, but if it does and you havent spotted it, it could be dangerous.

£65.00 here for the OEM viscous part http://www.land-rover-parts-shop.com/shop/lrps/en/browse/Defender+110/2/0/31/11/16 Cheaper than a kenlowe and much less hassle to fit than a secondhand fan from a scrap yard once you factor in getting it, fitting thermostats etc...

Thats where i'd start anyway. More likely than the crank bolt coming loose - although thats not impossible as others here have unfortunately found out.

The pulley is held on to the damper by the four bolts isnt it??? The damper is held on by the big bolt and the crank pulley is bolted to that. I have had it where the 4 bolts have come loose before (therefore just the pulley and not the damper) and just needed tightening up. Check this first - easy access from underneath even with the fan cowl on - no need to pay the garage.......

Slightly OT, but may help. How do you test your viscous fan is working? I mean before it is too late and you know its not working because your engine is overheating? Is there a way Neill (or others) can make sure his viscous fan is working before he leaves the UK?

I'd still check. Phone them, get the persons name and record the time and date you spoke to them. Its easy to miss some small print or other and then find out you are not insured. At least if you have the details above, your insurance company will have to honour you being insured if they say you are.

Just an example (you'll see........): http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=39856&st=0 I use google to search this forum - just put lr4x4 in the search terms. Personally i'd stick with standard as well (have no experience of the others though).

It amazed me how much diference a quick service of the handbrake made - neglected often (by me anyway) until there is a problem, but quick and simple to overhaul.

I used to think that, then i asked my insurance company at the time and they said they didnt. Really best to phone your insurance company and check........

Its going to start all over again now..... You wait Neil - you'll regret not doing a search!

No need for that - just let us know how you get on....

If you pump the pedal and let it go without closing the bleed nipple in between you will never bleed the fluid through, you'll just suck fuid and air in and out. So i reckon your problem is definatley air in the system. Its a 2 person job (one to pump and one to work the nipples )) or buy a Gunsons Ezibleed from Halfords - also very useful for the brakes.

Are the springs behind or in front of the shoes? Also, are the shoes the right way round? If you were able to adjust them properly i suspect they were. For the 110, a set of 4 shoes contains two shoes to face front (one each side) and two shoes to face rear (one each side). The way to tell which ones go front is that the distance from the adjuster to the shoe face is marginally longer (a few mm) on the front facing shoes and shorter on the rear facing ones. Like i say, i know this is the case for a 110, and may be the same for the 90 - it could explain the problems.

I'd knock my knee on it everytime i got out then Perhaps thats cos i put RRC seats in the front of the 110... If you cover the mdf with black insulation tape, it virtually matches the interior trim then.

Personally i'd rather remove the box. There's so much extra to take off if removing the engine (i'd have thought rad/intercooler, fuel lines - not to mention mine was a bit of a sod to get back on the mounts). If you remove the floor panels and screwed on sections fo bulkhead around the transmission tunnel there is loads of access and it is possible to do it by just swinging the box back, you dont even have to drop it.

Its not so silly if you consider that placing the speakers in a box will produce a more resonant sound and better bass. There's no way to do this if placing in the headliner. I'm also not sure about having the speaker so close to my ear!

Thats exactly what i did - all you need is a small bit of MDF and a jigsaw. The 4 inch sony, pioneer or kenwood ones then fit a treat. The drivers side is fine, you just need the spacers for the left side (silly place for a wiper motor!)

Was the LT77 really that weak? It was an old jag box wasnt it and they wouldnt have been small underpowered engines?

What a silly change! I thought the old mechanism is very good. I suppose part of the justification may be that they never produced a wheel carrier for that bonnet, therfore could get away with a weaker simpler prop. Another reason to get an older bonnet (or at least the prop mechanism from one) if the bonnet is to be used for the purpose of carrying a spare wheel.

Dont TD5s have a prop like the older defender/110 that is attached at both ends - to the bonnet and upper rad mount - that you just pull back to lock? Would seem a bacwards step if land rover didnt fit these to later models...

I found mine made no difference at all apart from perhaps a little extra noise! Does help keep rain and muck out to an extent when stationary though.

Either crack open the nipples and leave it to drain through with gravity for an hour or two, then bleed as described, or..... splash out and buy a gunson pressure bleed kit. (White90 recommended this to me). They work a treat. They have a resovoir that you fill with brake fluid, connect to the master cylinder resovoir and pressurise with air from a tyre. The pressure forces the fluid through to the nipple you open (no pumping required). You just need to check the bleed kit resovoir is kept topped up. The kit costs about £15 from halfords and can also be used on the clutch. HTH