reb78

Had the same on mine. I just plated it. Because its below the hinge the change in profile isnt noticeable. The rest of mine was prettey sound though.

I should have done that, but still thought it was silly that typing Top Gear into a search of the whole forum didnt bring this up since that is its title - surely this should be the most relevant if sorted in that order.

ANother vote for Ashcrofts. I'm local to them so its easy, but a courier should be possible to get your box to them. Personally if i were in a position to change my LT77s now (and had the money) i'd go for the short shaft R380 they sell - although i'm perfectly happy with the re-con LT77s i have from them.

Plastic rivets along the edge as well. I'll try and get these off carefully - i'm just woriied about ripping it thats all. Will all of the headlining foam drop dowm at the same time? For the cleaning - what about coating it in that mould killer you can buy for walls before you paint them? Could coat in that and then wash off..

I probably wouldnt do the reconditioning myself, but the removal and fitting is fine. I used Ashcrofts for a recon box and fitted it myself. Am very pleased with the outcome. Having them fit it will take away that hassle, but if you have time to do it yourself then thats what i'd do. Perhaps try changing the oil first and see if that makes any difference before spending all that money though.

I need to do mine in my 110 CSW. How do you get the headlinings down without wrecking them? Mine is not stuck well to whatever is above it now - i thought i would try and solve this at the same time as the lining inteself is in great condition - 20 years ols and no tears.

I did try the forum search by typing Top Gear into it. I then got 200 threads about transfer boxes and gears returned - hence why this bit of the thread was not originally linked to this top gear thread.

Meck lock locks the clutch in neutral, so you have to realise it is there before dipping the clutch the first time in order to know not to use the clutch. Theory i suppose is that they spend a while trying to start the vehicle, get it going, try to drive it and jam it in neutral and go nowhere. It all adds to the time on the drive they spend risking getting discovered - esp if they decide to continue to figure out why it wont go.

Bet he wishes he had now!!

As above really...? What plonkers! Really dont deserve to have such a good job (that we pay for!). (Top Gear 27-12-2009)

Brunel Performance sell fans for this purpose: http://www.brunelperformance.com/ourproducts.htm chrism on here had one for sale recently with an intercooler. I bought the intercooler, but not the fan (i was happy with just the ram effect). Might be worth dropping him a PM: http://forums.lr4x4.com/index.php?showtopic=48502&view=&hl=brunel%20intercooler%20&fromsearch=1

I do get frustrated with these posts. You want to give advice, but first post and asking for security advice. Its probably all innocent, but sometimes you wonder (no offence to the original poster). But there is no location above or any introduction on the forum with some pics of his beloved and the re-build all of which we would be interested in - those would at least let us know that the OP has a landy. Best thing would be if a few local forum members discussed these security measures with him in person with their landies sat in front of them! On landrovernet recently, a new poster asked how to hotwire a landrover. Again, first post, no introduction, no location, no pics of their landy....initially no replies until some clever soul (ex member here i beleive) said 'its unwise to discuss this openly on the forum. PM sent.....'!! Jim - i'm not suggesting you want advice on how to steal a landy (it sounds like you do have a beloved landy, but re-assure us a little before asking for advice and maybe meet up with some local forum members to discuss...)

Let us know the numbers. I'm interested too.

You guys all use snow tyres as well dont you? I think half the problems here demonstrated adequately yesterday are that out cars simply cant get up slight inclines because the tyres are incorrect for the weather. At least thats why cars were abandoned round my way.

Did you set it up properly when replacing it making sure the timing etc was correct? Did you change the timing belt at the same time as if not, the whole thing could be out as the belt would have been loose inside the casing once the pump was removed.

I keep wondering this. Maybe its that massive expanse of air around the engine in the land rover (and most older cars) unlike the modern ones cocooned in their soundproofed insulated engine bays? All that freezing metal and cold air wooshing around a fairly vast engine bay (in comparison to modern cars) might explain it. I put a sheet of card across the front of my tdi 110 the other morning - it hasnt made any difference to warm up time and only really makes the temp go higher when you want it to cool. Guess my thermostat is working properly!

No, it cant be as if it was that far off centre whoever changed it wouldnt have been able to put it back together again. Aligning the clutch just enables easy fitting - it has to sit central once the geabox shaft runs through the clutch plate. The pressure plate is bolted to the flywheel so unless its the wrong plate (which i doubt) this also has to be cebtral. Stop worrying about it and put it down to normal wear and tear and fit a whole new clutch as mentioned above!

Sounds like the off centre bearing could have jammed on the input shaft to the box with the odd angle it would be pushed at by the fork so yes, although i would have thought brute force would have moved it eventually - not that that would have made it work though.

I dont have one of those - 1989 110 CSW. However, with holes like that, i find a bit of gutter mastick round inside and a flat peice of plastic like a bit cut to sice from the lid of an ice cream tub does the job at sealing them.

May have been a blue and white release bearing in the first place hence the failure! How old is it? Sometimes these thimgs just wear and break.

A little access cover on the bellhousing would be useful for a lot of this stuff. Big enough to see in and get your hand through. Changing the clutch fork and messing around with clips and the pushrod would be easy then. I wonder if anyone has cut an access hole in a bellhousing? It could easily be plated over with an oversize plate, sealant and rivets which could be drilled out to remove it when needed. At least it would mean that you dont have to split the engine and box to check all is ok in there............

Since you have it out, i would replace the whole lot anyway - not just the bearing. Use a strengthened fork and a good quality clutch - i.e. not parts that come in blue and white boxes!

I agree, but i've heard of it being done so it was worth mentioning. The other thing to consider related to your post is that IIRC there are two types of pump - one with a spacer the other without. Fit the one meant for no spacer with the spacer and the arm may not engage on the cam at all.

Or you've not located the arm of the new lift pump properly on the cam that drives it.

But why would a poor earth suddenly occur because it over revved once? I agree, you will get a much better feel by turning it with a socket, but if a lot of oil has been burned, it may well have seized.