reb78

I have done similar. I fitted freelander1 rear seats to the middle row of my 110. I moved the whole lot back about four inches to make more leg room - it hasnt really affected the boot and can still use the original seatbelts with the way i have done it.

I would have thought that fabricating the sill rail out of some decent RHS would provide a decent solution. 2mm vs 3mm on the original design is probably neither here nor there in a side impact situation? I would imagine box would be better but it does introduce another rot point. Should be fairly simple as its just a straight piece from the A pillar to C pillar. B pillars are spot welded I think - pretty sure I can see the spot welds through the paint a the bottom of mine. C pillars were so I think B will be the same. I am considering the galv option from YRM for when i rebuild mine.

Thats what i did. Ran the 300 pump while my 200tdi pump.was reconditioned.

Yep. I ran a 300tdi pump on my 200tdi for a good few months. Didnt notice any difference.

Trouble is you might not 'do' wiring diagrams but all you are asking is for everyone else to do them for you. Multiple people gave solutions on that other thread including several saying that you needed the 10as for this loom!

You are screwed if you ever have a problem with a part with them then - happy to take your money, not happy to resolve problems when they occur... just making you aware!

Its like there is an echo here.

I dont remember that but could be interesting to find the discussion.

Just a note - people speak of these ODs as splitters but 3rd plus OD is pretty much 4th and 4th plus OD is pretty much 5th etc... - thats on the LT77 and R380. The plus OD is ever so slightly lower than the next gear up but not a lot. Mine is basically a 6th gear that allows me to retain the original 1st gear ratio.

I was changing lift pumps every 6-12 months. They were Delphi or Genuine. Some failed due to the diapragm splitting - thats a non running vehicle as diesel is peeing out down the engine block amd not getting to the FIP. I run a lot on SVO at 100% which possibly didnt help the diaphragm. Since fitting the electric one in 2015 I havent touched it. I wouldnt call that less reliable.

I know its not what you want to hear but why the obsession with discs on the rear? Its the absolute bottom of my list of mods. I can lock my 110 up on a dry road. I tow up to the legal limit and the brakes are spot on, all maintained properly and totally stock. Theres a few points... 1. Properly adjusted drums? 2. Have you rebuilt or replaced the front calipers? Reason for asking is that people never keep up with the reccomended brake fluid changes. When I rebuilt my calipers I found the lower fluid channels were gummed and blocked with rubber seal goop. No fluid was passing. I wonder how many older calipers are like this and reliant on the upper fluid gallery for flow between the two halves of the caliper... the WSM states not to split them so I guess many dont and dont spot this and clear the gallery. Even vented discs are not that necessary if you arent towing down the alps all day..

The beauty of what @vulcan bomber is doing is that he is developing bits for the defender GKN ODs specifically and looking at how to fix a number of their weaknesses.

My choice of pump may be overkill but it all works.

Sure. This was what I did:

I gave up with mechanical lift pumps and fitted an electric one. No problems since 2015...

Overdrive rebuild services in sheffield sell parts for the laycock type overdrives. A lot of the bits they sell for the J type are compatible with ours. But there are some defender specific bits they dont sell. https://www.overdrive-repairs.co.uk/product-category/j-type-spare-parts/ Always better priced than D44 on everything too.

Only two wires connect to it.

The volvo units were GKN - I think they used D and J types. Pretty sure our defender ones are modified J types. The big difference is the drive on ours comes in and out the same end. On the volvo/triumph versions drive goes in the front and out the back.

Its just a magnet to detect one dip (from memory) in a hunk of spinning metal. So its one pulse per revolution I guess. I dont know how it generates its voltage or what voltage that is though.

I have one that definitely failed. Replaced just the sensor and it works again.

I'd seriously throw the threat of legal action in for putting your signature on a document without your permission. I bet they back down at that, especially as their pictures show no damage!

Sinnce you didnt sign that document I'd tell them that the use of your signature without your permission amounts to fraud and if they want to pursue you for damage that cannot be seen in the photos they have sent you, you will pursue them for fraudulent use of your signature. I had this issue with a hire car in south africa. We were in a rush when we dropped the car off and a week later got a massive bill for wrecking two wheels and a bumper. We hadnt and there were four of us to testify to that. I got my card company to stop the charge, cancelled the card and then took it up with the hire car company. Ended up with an admission that someone had done it after drop off and was pulling a fast one and then an apology.

Ralph, if its helpful to use a ramp, pop up. I cant offer much time to help but can offer use of my ramp so u can fit the OD. Makes very short work of the job. Local test drive and if there is a problem its quick to remove with the ramp.

I have three. One works. I'm going to sell one to @vulcan bomber so he can figuremout how to modify/fix them more. Those gaskets are a steal at that price, d44 is the only other place to buy them as far as I know and as David says, the cost for one is almost the same as his set!

A couple of times when doing other jobs. I have no pics though.