reb78

Yes, but whether people fit them or leave them unblocked once fitted is another thing. Soooo many people are DIY installing these in an effort to save money that I suspect many installations are incorrect. Not saying thats the case for the OP at all. But it does raise an additional question as to whether an air inlet has been fitted with the install as this will affect the efficiency of the flue draw.

In theory i agree but the two unlined chimneys at my mums are such big voids theres kinda nowhere else for what ever smoke you produce to go. The other thing is that the more we seal our homes the harder it is for this old way of heating to draw!

With the flue, ours so this as we are in a valley and its pretty related to atmospherics I think. Ours draw when the doors are closed but can waft a little into the room when refuelling. I'm considering trying one of the anti down draft cowls but I do think my current cowl could simply do with more outlet space (i.e. it needs to be taller) before you reach the 'lid' of the cowl. Its not an option for you but i do sometimes wonder how our desire to line chimneys has decreased their ability to draw. Mum has several unlined chimneys and they never cause an issue Do you have a CO alarm in the room?

You're going to regret not having a larger hearth slate with that nice new carpet!

I have always considered that threadlock actually makes things easier to remove in that it prevents (or at least helps) stop threads becoming corroded and then impossible to remove. So I wouldnt avoid it on the basis that it will stop me undoing something.... Irwin bolt extractors come in handy in the OPs situation. There may not be enough room behind the swivel with the ball in place (although i seem to recall i have used them in that spot) but once the ball is cut off the right size extractor will take those bolts out without issue IME.

I recall @Nonimouserecommended a place in Cornwall near me but I cant remember the name.

Pretty sure Philips and Osram are making them now. Prices are rather high though. I don't have any experience of them but did note that some of the well known brands are starting to produce them when I saw them.

Handbrake?? It can cause a judder if poorly adjusted/binding but not as bad as you describe I would think. Simple check though just in case.

The steel wouldn't be cheap but if you had a set of flat plates welded together like a square figure of 8 (think of how it looks on a calculator) and secured the lift legs to that, I would think it would be perfectly secure and you wouldn't gain unwanted height (other than the thickness of the plate). I'd have thought 6-8mm plate, the width of the feet of the legs and the length of the lift would be fine. When installing them you can put them together and raise the ramps to get the legs in the right place to bolt down. The frame/bolts are just to keep everything from splaying. Mines bolted but i dont see the difference between fixing it to a well made frame or bolting it into the floor.

Exactly. Its a crush tube so very similar. If doing again I would follow a similar tightness to what you have recommended on the Salisbury as you say.

All fine. I have rebuilt a couple of these since this post and it takes a fair bit of force to crush the spacer, so just nip it up tight and dont swing on the wrench to get it tighter is my advice if you need to do yours!

I think that figuring out the problem with Ralphs unit was the hardest part. Hopefully its fixed now! I have one with similar symptoms to Ralphs so if his fix works I can ask @vulcan bomberto repair my spare. I have said it a lot but I think the GKN suffers from poor maintenance - if you follow GKNs instructions, oil changes are something like every 30k miles. I do mine every 6k miles. There is only 700ml or so of ATF in there and it gets very hot in use. It will never last the specified interval by GKN.

Yeah. I suppose, but as you say, they had chocolate bearings from the outset. It just matches britparts usual quality i suppose.

Does he know about grammar? I gave up with the magazine years ago as no-one who wrote or edited it seemed to have a clue about how to make it readable!

It might be simplest to bypass the sensor. Then you just have to remember when not to use it. For the cone clutch, overdrive repair services in Sheffield sell the right part at a reasonable price. Slipping may not always be the clutch though. Ralph has a thread on here and I suppose, it was really poor pressure on the rear pistons that caused the clutch to slip (Ralph?)

Dont think we can really blame Britpart for this one! I never thought i would ever defend them!

@Peaklander-thats pretty much the same as mine. Use it in a similar way too with my roof tent.

I have a basic 2mx2m awning on the 110. You can add sides and ground sheet if you want. It’s quick to put the awning up but is possibly too much like a tarp on poles for what you want?! There are 2.5x2.5 size ones but I got mine for a couple of hundred £ on a deal.

Yup! Almost the same thing. Laycock design i believe. I think type J. Difference for the defender version is that drive comes in and out the same end.

This is what I notice with my gkn. People talk about them as a splitter but they gear x+OD is so close to gear x+1 that it really isnt a splitter. Re the lever - this is where the GKN always wins! Just a flick of a button...

Rimmers have never managed to get trade from me. Very pricey. Bit like D44 Try Britcar.

I thought this was going to be a question about brakes.

I have run tens of thousands of miles with a non matched bearing and race (think thats what you are calling a cup). I fitted my OD at 150k and didnt change the race. Its run for about 120k like this. Its not the done thing but seems fine. I certainly wouldnt worry as a temporary measure.

I did this too when I fitted my GKN. I carried it with me for some time. Now its in a box somewhere but would be ready to post if needed too.

This puts it in perspective I think... A normal electric shower is 9ish kW and thats just a shower at 60ish degrees not exactly high pressure... My diesel hot pressure washer has a double coil inside the furnace/chimney and will heat near to 100C Surely, if you have a hot tap access and can connect a hose with a decent nozzle on it you could do pretty well with that without the pressure aspect - especially with the use of a traffic film remover or similar. I have never pressure washed my engines - perhaps goes back to the days of petrols with moisture sensitive distributors but personally I wouldnt be putting a pressure washer under the bonnet....