reb78

Very tidy. I have a classic car to restore at some point and will be doing similar in there but a little more hidden so I can retain the original LW radio!

I second this. Great tool. Perfect flares every time

Scrap that. Not sure now. Some on that page are labelled as shielder but the stainless ones aren't. None on their website either - https://www.shielderchassis.com/all-bulkheads/defender-bulkheads/defender-90

Shielder I think. https://www.lrparts.net/da2971ss-stainless-steel-bulkhead-for-land-rover-defender-fits-1994-2006-left-hand-drive-for-300tdi-and-td5.html

You are missing a hub cap in your first pic - that should be covered and greasy not uncovered and rusty... Just saying so you can free it all up, grease it and replace the cap in case you havent already.

A fair number of suppliers do offer a lot of oem. Britcar and LRDirect are great at it. So you can find corteco, hardy spicer, gkn, qh, etc etc products. They are the options i go for.

I always seemed to have trouble getting my complaints taken seriously. Even tried reporting the carp quality of some items to britpart directly once. But they simply didnt care. I speak in the past tense as i stopped buying their rubbish about 15 years ago.

Haha. In a hurry, all i could get one time was britpart ones. They were split before they came out of their sealed packet. The guy in the shop went through eight packs and found one that wasnt split.

Put genuine ones on. Aftermarket plastic things are rubbish.

haha. seven years on, I havent done anything about it! If you move quicker than me, report back with what you think of the seal!

We had one of the aggregate (?) I guess vermiculite (?) pumped flues installed at my mums... bloody thing popped bricks out everywhere as they pumped it in - particularly in the attic! All fine once we filled the holes and let it set! I guess it proved it needed lining! I had to get quite brutal with that back boiler at the weekend - used a 22mm bit of old copper pipe to punch down through the blocked channels. Its burning cleaner now. Maybe some of the first wood I used on it was resinous and i didnt realise but I dont think it was. I am running it hotter now though and only smokeless fuel when I damp it down overnight.

Haha. Yep. I can spot that. None when i ran the brushes up on sunday.

Thanks - I dont know what grade this current liner is. Used to be on a woodburner before I put the Rayburn in but I dont know its age. How do they fail?

Interesting. The Elm is nearly gone so that's easy to avoid now. Interesting to hear about the anthracite though. Before it came to me this Rayburn only burnt anthracite and very little else and it was usually very very clean. I should have clarified though - i am using one of the smokeless manufactured (anthracite derived) alternatives now but I thought anthracite was also considered smokeless and ok in smoke free zones as a result (not that that applies out here in the sticks). Its become harder to get and I don't think will be available in raw form next year.

Whats the lifespan of a liner out of interest and what are the reasons for replacing them? We have one lined chimney and other that isnt but will get that done this spring. I kinda figured that if the liner does not have a hole in it, it must be ok but are there other reasons for failure?

I agree. Its the first year we have had it installed here (moved it from my mums last spring so have used it for 30 years) and I was going easy on it to try and eeek out the wood and anthracite and I think I have been running it too cool as you say. As well as cleaning it this weekend I repaired the cooker/heating air flap so now i can get it to sit part way between the two which helps with draw and making sure the firebox can run hot but still provide heat. What i need to do is cut the wood out from the overnight banking too as thats when i imagine a lot of these deposits form. Wood wise - its mainly a mix of elm and ash, with some oak. I dont think there is any pine/conifer type stuff in there. Its all been seasoned for around 2 years (the Elm was chopped up in Feb 2020 - this was a fallen limb so had been down some time before I cut it up too) so I am surprised by the amount of resin seen. Potato peelings are a useful suggestion! I bought some chemical to put on twice a week to reduce the tar build up but that clearly didnt do much!

Back on topic... this was the back boiler on my rayburn after 6 weeks of wood and anthracite. I'm burning it too low I think. Its all clear now but the wood will only be going on when i have the flames going well rather than banking down overnight with a mix of anthracite. Chimney has some residue but not a lot compared to the boiler. there should be five channels there. The left two were pretty much blocked. The wood is two dry and seasoned for two years mostly. So depending on what the OP is burning it may be worth running brushes up the chimney and certainly checking the baffle plate is clear and clean.

I was really disappointed. I just cleared up his mess. No point having him back as it still wont be right.

See it in all trades. We thought we would give a young chap a chance who had set out on his own as a qualified electrician. The amount of bodge work that became apparent after he left was crazy. Qualified or not I could have done a better and safer job.

Check the brake light bulbs and if good replace the brake light switch. They are cheap enough and commonly cause the symptoms. If that doesnt fix it you have a spare for when it does fail (and it will).

Yeah. Hopefully its there but worth asking. Other thing to ask is whether the flue is clear - suspect this isnt an issue at all as its a new install but if you are burning wet or unseasoned wood they can tar up surprisingly quickly. I very much doubt this os the issue here.

Yes, but whether people fit them or leave them unblocked once fitted is another thing. Soooo many people are DIY installing these in an effort to save money that I suspect many installations are incorrect. Not saying thats the case for the OP at all. But it does raise an additional question as to whether an air inlet has been fitted with the install as this will affect the efficiency of the flue draw.

In theory i agree but the two unlined chimneys at my mums are such big voids theres kinda nowhere else for what ever smoke you produce to go. The other thing is that the more we seal our homes the harder it is for this old way of heating to draw!

With the flue, ours so this as we are in a valley and its pretty related to atmospherics I think. Ours draw when the doors are closed but can waft a little into the room when refuelling. I'm considering trying one of the anti down draft cowls but I do think my current cowl could simply do with more outlet space (i.e. it needs to be taller) before you reach the 'lid' of the cowl. Its not an option for you but i do sometimes wonder how our desire to line chimneys has decreased their ability to draw. Mum has several unlined chimneys and they never cause an issue Do you have a CO alarm in the room?

You're going to regret not having a larger hearth slate with that nice new carpet!